Rhodes: island of light and legends
Discover Rhodes, one of Greece's most fascinating islands. Explore the medieval Old Town, the Acropolis of Lindos, crystal-clear bays, Navarone Bay, St Paul's Bay and breathtaking beaches. Join us on a journey through history, nature and unforgettable landscapes to help you plan your perfect Rhodes holiday.
Angela: and once again, when it came to the inevitable question, “Where are we going?”, the answer was obvious.
Piero: of course… Greece!
Angela: by now it's almost a reflex. Whenever we see flights to the Greek Islands, you simply can't resist.
Piero: and you don't even try to stop me anymore!
Angela: to be honest, I've finally surrendered to your passion for Doric columns, whitewashed houses, and feta salads.
Piero: from Milan, with a comfortable flight heading south-east, in less than three hours we arrive on the easternmost island of the Dodecanese. As soon as we land, we're welcomed by warm sunshine and a gentle breeze already carrying the scent of the sea and ancient history.
Angela: but why Rhodes?
Piero: because it is the perfect combination of everything we love: crystal-clear sea, medieval villages, ancient ruins, and... a legendary Colossus. We are going to visit:
Lindos and its Acropolis;
St. Paul's Bay;
Prasonisi;
Anthony Quinn Bay;
Agathi Beach;
Navarone Bay;
Rhodes Town.
The history of Rhodes
Piero: Rhodes has a long and complex history, shaped by peoples, battles, trade, and legends.
Angela: the earliest traces of settlement date back to the Bronze Age, but it was with the arrival of the Mycenaeans, around 1500 BC, that the island truly entered history.
Piero: then came the Dorians, around the 10th century BC, who founded three important cities: Ialysos, Kamiros, and Lindos, all of which can still be visited today.
Angela: and it was these three cities that, in 408 BC, decided to found a new polis together: the city of Rhodes, on the island's north-eastern tip.
Piero: the new city was designed by Hippodamus of Miletus, the great urban planner of antiquity, with a regular grid layout and well-organised harbours.
Angela: a masterpiece of ancient urban planning. Rhodes quickly flourished, becoming an important centre of trade, art, and culture, allied first with Athens and later with Sparta, while always remaining proud of its independence.
Piero: it also became a great naval power, with a fleet respected throughout the Mediterranean. And it was no coincidence that, after successfully repelling the siege of Demetrius Poliorcetes in 305 BC, the Rhodians built a statue to celebrate their victory: the Colossus of Rhodes.
Angela: standing more than 30 metres tall, it represented Helios, the patron god of the island. It was a gigantic work of art that amazed the ancient world.
Piero: although it collapsed little more than half a century later due to an earthquake, it has remained in the collective imagination as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
Angela: but the history of Rhodes did not end with the Classical period. With the arrival of the Romans, the island continued to prosper, and later became part of the Byzantine Empire.
Piero: in 1309, the Knights of the Order of St. John, expelled from Cyprus and seeking a new Christian stronghold in the Mediterranean, arrived on the island.
Angela: the Knights built one of the most spectacular fortified cities in Europe. The walls, the Palace of the Grand Master, the hospitals, and the churches all bear witness to the era of the Knights.
Piero: they resisted the Ottomans for more than two centuries, until 1522, when Rhodes was conquered by Suleiman the Magnificent after a terrible siege.
Angela: this marked the beginning of the long Ottoman period, which lasted until the arrival of the Italians in 1912.
Piero: that's right! Rhodes was part of the Kingdom of Italy for more than thirty years, until 1947, when the island was officially united with Greece.
Angela: today, walking through Rhodes is like strolling through a history book: every stone tells the story of a civilisation, every street of a different era.
Piero: and we are ready to discover it, one step at a time.
Lindos, between stone and legend
Angela: we have chosen to stay by the sea, right here, in a peaceful corner of the south-eastern coast of Rhodes, just a few minutes from Lindos.
Piero: opening the windows in the morning and watching the sunrise over the Aegean Sea is priceless. But today there's no time to be lazy: let's go!
Angela: we load our backpacks into our faithful van and set off, driving along scenic roads surrounded by the scent of pine trees. Our destination: Lindos, the ancient sacred town that looks as though it has come straight out of a painting.
Piero: we arrive within a few minutes, and our eyes are immediately drawn upwards to the Acropolis, towering above the bay, before being captivated by the dazzling white houses, clustered closely together as if embracing one another.
Angela: we leave our van on the outskirts of the village and begin walking through the cobbled streets. The donkey carts pass by slowly, but we prefer to make the climb on foot, enjoying every detail along the way.
Piero: the carved wooden doors, the mosaic doorsteps, the shaded terraces: Lindos is a small maze that is filled with the scent of history and jasmine.
Angela: the climb to the Acropolis is a journey through history. It begins with the remains of an ancient staircase carved into the living rock, then continues past the Castle of the Knights, who transformed this sacred site into a military fortress during the 14th century.
Piero: but once we pass through that gateway, the real wonder reveals itself: the heart of ancient Lindos, where the Temple of Athena Lindia once stood, built in the 4th century BC on the foundations of even older places of worship dating back to the Geometric period.
Angela: of that temple, only a few Doric columns remain, slender and majestic, rising towards the blue sky. But what is even more moving is the location: we are standing more than one hundred metres above sea level, on a rocky promontory overlooking two spectacular bays.
Piero: on one side lies the famous St. Paul's Bay, where, according to tradition, the Apostle Paul landed during his journey to Rhodes. On the other side is the main bay, where the water fades from turquoise to deep blue.
Angela: the Propylaea with their columns, the great Hellenistic stoa, the monumental staircase... everything speaks of the elegance of Classical architecture.
Piero: it was a place of pilgrimage for sailors, who came here to ask the goddess Athena for protection before setting out to sea.
Angela: and today, just like those sailors, we too pause in silence, letting ourselves be embraced by the warm wind and the ancient power of these stones.
Piero: the Acropolis of Lindos is not just an archaeological site: it is still a sacred place, where time seems to stand still.
Angela: we make our way back down with a touch of sadness, but with our eyes filled with beauty. And now... on to our next stop. The day is still long...
Lunch with a mythical view: St. Paul's Bay
Angela: after saying goodbye to the columns of the Acropolis, we make our way on foot through the narrow streets leading down to the sea.
Piero: it is not just a walk downhill: it is a journey through a village that seems to have remained unchanged for centuries. Every narrow street is like a postcard.
Angela: we come across the bell tower of Lindos, which belongs to the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.
Piero: and then we come across the remains of the Lindos Amphitheatre, near St. Paul's Harbour. It was carved into the rock and is a fine example of how the ancient city of Lindos made use of the natural landscape for its buildings. Nearby, you can also see the remains of an ancient gymnasium and several important inscriptions, including the Chronicle of the Temple of Athena Lindia.
Angela: we walk past small craft shops, flower-filled balconies, and cats sleeping in the shade. And then, there it is: St. Paul's Bay.
Piero: we had already seen it from above, but reaching it on foot, step by step, makes it even more special.
Angela: a strip of sea nestled between the rocks, sheltered by a narrow opening to the vast Aegean Sea. The water is crystal clear, calm, with colours ranging from emerald green to deep blue.
Piero: according to tradition, this is where St. Paul landed during his missionary journey across the Mediterranean. A sacred, peaceful place, where everything seems to speak of tranquillity.
Angela: just a few steps from the shore stands a small white chapel dedicated to the Apostle, simple and elegant, almost hidden among the rocks.
Piero: at this point, we leave our backpacks and towels in a free spot and enjoy a swim in this wonderful bay.
Angela: from here, looking up at the rocky promontory crowned by the Acropolis is just as special.
Piero: afterwards, we take a seat in one of the seafront tavernas, with tables in the shade of a pergola, overlooking the bay.
Angela: the menu is exactly what we love: Greek salad with feta and oregano, grilled octopus, fried courgettes, and a little tzatziki.
Piero: and an ice-cold Mythos beer to accompany the view. What more could we ask for?
Angela: nothing. Just the time to pause, look around, and realise that Greece is exactly this: sun, sea, ancient ruins, and tables laden with delicious food.
Piero: by now, every visit feels like coming home. Even if this is the first time we've ever set foot here.
Prasonissi, where the sea divides and the wind tells its story
Angela: the following morning, we wake up early, with the aroma of Greek coffee mingling with the scent of the sea. Our destination is the southernmost point of the island.
Piero: Prasonissi awaits us, the place where Rhodes ends. Or perhaps where it truly begins.
Angela: the drive is a long one, but the landscape is constantly changing: pine forests, barren hills, olive groves, and then... all of a sudden, pure wonder.
Piero: a strip of pale sand, perfectly shaped, separating two seas. On one side, the Aegean, rough and untamed; on the other, the Mediterranean, calm and crystal clear.
Angela: and that is where our day begins: we walk barefoot across the golden sand, with the water gently lapping at our feet from both sides. A truly unique feeling.
Piero: the wind is the true star here. And it's easy to see why this place is a paradise for surfers and kitesurfers: colourful sails soaring, crossing paths, and dancing above the waves.
Angela: but all it takes is walking a little further to find complete peace. Once we cross the strip of land, we begin the climb towards the Prasonissi promontory, the small island that is connected to the mainland in summer and surrounded by the sea in winter.
Piero: the trail is wild, scented with sage and thyme. We climb slowly, among sun-warmed rocks and silence. And as we go, the view opens up before us: below lies the twin bay, the boundary between two worlds.
Angela: the view from up here is incredible. You feel so small in the face of the power of the elements. The wind tousles our hair, the sun warms the rocks, and the sea roars and gently caresses the shore.
Piero: we stop in silence. And I find myself thinking how perfect this balance is: nature, freedom, and beauty.
Angela: after our walk, we head back down and treat ourselves to a swim on the calmer side, where the water is crystal clear and the sand is soft.
Piero: and then, of course, we take refuge in a small taverna just behind the beach for a simple but perfect lunch: warm bread, a salad with olives, local cheese, and a drizzle of rich, fragrant olive oil.
Angela: Prasonissi is not just a beach: it is an experience. A place where the island comes to an end, but the real Greece, carries on.
Gold and emerald: Agathi Beach and Anthony Quinn Bay
Angela: after the long and windy day at Prasonissi, today we slow the pace. We head north, towards the east coast: back aboard our van, we set off to discover two very different beaches, yet both unforgettable.
Piero: the first is Agathi Beach, not far from Haraki. A little golden paradise, with fine sand, shallow waters, and crystal-clear sea. The water here looks as though it has been painted, perfect for a relaxing swim.
Angela: all around us are barren hills and the outline of an ancient fortress watching over the bay: it is Feraklos Castle, built by the Knights of St. John. You can see it from afar, standing in silence like a guardian of time.
Piero: after a long swim and a break in the shade of a tree, we set off again. Bend after bend, we make our way down a narrow road winding between the rocks and olive trees... until we reach one of the island's most iconic places.
Angela: this is the famous Anthony Quinn Bay, named after the Hollywood actor who filmed several scenes of The Guns of Navarone here (we'll come back to that later...). So captivated was he by its beauty that he even tried to buy it.
Piero: the sea is emerald green, framed by wind-shaped cliffs. You enter the water by walking over smooth pebbles and small natural rock platforms. It feels like a hidden pool nestled among the rocks, with a wild, cinematic charm.
Angela: we stay there until sunset, when the light begins to paint the cliffs pink and the sea turns silver. It's one of those moments that makes you think, "Yes, I'll never forget this place."
Rhodes town: among knights, ancient walls and timeless wonders
Angela: today we leave the sea behind for a while. After three days immersed in nature, it's time to discover the city that gave the island its name.
Piero: Rhodes Town, a crossroads of peoples, wars, trade, and cultures. A fortified jewel where every stone tells a story.
Angela: we park outside the city walls and make our way towards one of the main gates. Even from a distance, the fortified walls leave us speechless.
Piero: nearly four kilometres of bastions, towers, and ramparts. The defensive system built by the Knights of St. John between the 14th and 16th centuries is one of the best preserved in the world.
Angela: we enter through the Gate of Amboise, one of the most monumental entrances, with its twin towers and the stone bridge that once crossed the moat.
Piero: as soon as we cross the gateway, it's as if we've stepped into another age. The cars disappear, the streets become narrower, and the whole atmosphere changes.
Angela: the cobbled alleyways, the limestone walls, the wrought-iron balconies—everything seems suspended between the Middle Ages and the East.
Piero: we begin our visit along the Street of the Knights, the most famous street in the city. A perfectly straight road linking the lower town to the Palace of the Grand Master.
Angela: on both sides stand the Inns of the Tongues, the headquarters of the Knights from the different European nations: the Tongue of Italy, France, Provence, England, Germany...
Piero: every façade is different, yet they all speak the same austere and solemn language of Gothic architecture. Pointed arches, stone coats of arms, and ornate portals.
Angela: and at the end of the street, there it is: the Palace of the Grand Master.
Piero: a true citadel within the city. Built by the Knights in the 14th century, it was severely damaged by an explosion in 1856, but was rebuilt by the Italians in the 1930s, transforming it into a residence for Mussolini and the King of Italy.
Angela: although the reconstruction took some stylistic liberties, it restored to the city an extraordinary landmark. We step into the courtyard, dominated by Roman columns and statues, before making our way into the grand interior halls.
Piero: mosaic floors brought from Kos, wooden ceilings, period furnishings, and rooms that recreate the daily life of the Knights: a journey into history, with a level of scenic detail worthy of a film.
Angela: once outside the Palace, we happily lose ourselves in the liveliest part of the city.
Piero: as we leave the Palace, we let ourselves be guided by the sound of church bells. A little further on, hidden among the medieval rooftops, the Rhodes Clock Tower comes into view.
Angela: a small Ottoman gem dating back to the 19th century, with a view that's worth every step. We buy our tickets, climb a narrow spiral staircase, and... wow.
Piero: from up here, you can see everything: the stone rooftops, the city walls, the harbour, the minaret, and even the sea on the horizon.
Angela: we make our way back down at a leisurely pace, and as soon as we step outside, we find ourselves standing in front of the Mosque of Suleiman the Magnificent.
Piero: it was built in 1522, immediately after the Ottoman conquest of the island. It is one of the first tangible signs of the new power that would rule Rhodes for almost four centuries.
Angela: the pink dome, the slender minaret, the portico with its Oriental-style arches... it's as though, simply by turning a corner, we've found ourselves in another city, in another time.
Piero: that's what Rhodes is like: layer upon layer of history. Every ruling power has left its mark, without erasing what came before. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Knights, Ottomans, Italians... each of them has written a chapter.
Angela: and we read them, one after another, simply by walking through the city.
Piero: now we make our way towards Hippocrates Square, with its medieval fountain, artisan shops, sacks of spices, and the aroma of Greek coffee, slowly prepared over hot sand.
Angela: and then there's the Archaeological Museum, housed in the former Hospital of the Knights, with its statues, pottery, stelae, and the beautiful Sarcophagus of Aphrodite.
Piero: here too, every room is a journey through centuries and civilisations: from the Mycenaeans to the Hellenistic period, and from the Romans to the Byzantines.
Angela: we take some time to stroll along the city walls, passing towers and bastions, before stopping in a quiet corner overlooking the harbour.
Piero: it is here that, according to legend, the Colossus of Rhodes once stood, at the entrance to the ancient harbour, perhaps spanning the two sides where the bronze deer, the symbol of the city, stand today.
Angela: no archaeological evidence confirms it, but the legend lives on. And in Rhodes, the line between myth and reality is often a very fine one.
Piero: even what we see today is utterly fascinating, and it lets us imagine what it might once have looked like...
Angela: Rhodes Town is not just history: it's identity. It is the beating heart of the island. And today, it has shared so much of its story with us.
Along the coast of Lindos by boat: dreamlike bays and cinematic cliffs
Piero: after three days of history, long walks and ancient wonders, today we treat ourselves to a break at sea. But no crowded beaches for us, today, we're spending the day on a boat!
Angela: a small motorboat will take us to discover the wildest and most spectacular side of Rhodes' south-eastern coast.
Piero: our first stop is an obvious one: St Paul's Bay once again, which has now become our favourite little haven. But seeing it from the sea makes it even more magical.
Angela: after a refreshing swim, we set off south once again. And just a few minutes later, there it is: the spectacular Navarone Cliffs.
Piero: here, the limestone cliffs rise sheer above the sea, creating a breathtaking contrast with the deep blue water below.
Angela: the name "Navarone" isn't Greek—it has a cinematic origin. This bay became famous in the 1960s, when it was chosen as a filming location for The Guns of Navarone, starring Gregory Peck and Anthony Quinn.
Piero: although the film is set on a fictional island in the Aegean Sea, many scenes were filmed right here, among these spectacular cliffs. Since then, the locals have started calling it Navarone Bay.
Angela: the sea here is deep and crystal clear, perfect for swimming or snorkelling. And the silence, broken only by the gentle lapping of the waves, makes the whole place even more enchanting.
Piero: around midday, we slowly make our way back to Lindos, gently rocked by the waves.
Angela: as we think back on our morning among bays and cliffs, we can't help but look forward to the many wonderful beaches that are still waiting to be discovered on this island.
Piero: next time, we'll certainly explore Tsambika, with its long stretch of golden sand, watched over by the monastery of the same name perched on the hilltop. Then we'll head for the calm waters of Stegna and the beautifully kept bay of Kolymbia. We won't miss the famous Elli Beach, in the heart of Rhodes Town, and perhaps even the windswept shoreline of Ixia, perfect for those who love surfing. On the other side of the island, even wilder landscapes await us: the hidden beach of Fourni, the cliffs of Monolithos, and the crystal-clear waters of Kamiros Skala. And then, further south, Plimmiri and Kattavia Beach, far from the tourist crowds, where the sea blends into the silence.
Angela: Rhodes is an island you'll never stop discovering. Every beach is a world of its own, every corner holds a new surprise.
Piero: but today... we're simply going to enjoy the magic of Lindos, from both the sea and the land.
Rhodes has enchanted us... but there's still more waiting for us
Angela: it's time to leave, but we do so with our hearts full. We've walked through history, among medieval walls and the marble monuments of antiquity, swum in dreamlike bays, and listened to the silence among the ruins of temples and palaces.
Piero: but Rhodes doesn't end here. There are still so many places we haven't seen... places that quietly call us back for another journey. The island is easy to explore by car, and the distances are never overwhelming. We've seen the main highlights, but there's still so much left to discover.
Angela: like Monolithos, with its castle perched high on the rock and sunsets that set the sky ablaze.
Piero: or Kritinia, suspended between sea and mountains, with the remains of its ancient Venetian fortress.
Angela: the inland villages, such as Embonas, where time seems to have stood still and the wine flows generously.
Piero: the Kallithea Springs, a jewel of Italian seaside architecture, and the Valley of the Butterflies, the summer refuge of thousands of delicate creatures.
Angela: not forgetting the ancient remains of Kamiros Skala, the ruins of ancient Dorian Kamiros, the windswept west coast, and the beaches where kites dance across the sky.
Piero: Rhodes is an island that changes its face around every bend, bringing together East and West, sea and stone, myth and memory.
Angela: and every corner has a story to tell.
Piero: we return home certain that this isn't goodbye, but simply see you again.
Angela: because some places, once you've experienced them, become a part of you. And they never truly let you go. But for now, let's relive it all in this beautiful video.
Kos
A journey through Kos, in the heart of the Dodecanese: dream beaches like Agios Stefanos, ancient sites like the Asklepion, and the lively charm of Kos Town. From picturesque villages like Zia to natural hot springs and crystal-clear seas, Kos offers the perfect mix of relaxation, culture, and adventure. An unforgettable week in the magic of the Greek islands.
Back to Greece!
Piero: it's time to return to my beloved Greece!
Angela: another island? Are we going back to the Cyclades?
Piero: definitely another wonderful island, but this time we’re leaving the Cyclades behind and heading to the Dodecanese!
Angela: so we’re going further east compared to the Cyclades, toward the Turkish coast.
Piero: exactly. This Aegean archipelago is called the Dodecanese because it consists of twelve main islands; but in reality, it includes a multitude of smaller ones—about two hundred in total. Unlike the Cyclades, these islands don’t share a clear and specific geographic identity: each one is beautiful in its own unique way, with crystal-clear waters, stunning beaches, and breathtaking nature. And then there’s the history: all these islands have in common the legacy of the Crusaders, as well as periods of Ottoman and Italian rule. From the lesser-known Leros to Karpathos, which is becoming an increasingly popular destination; Kalymnos, famous among rock-climbing enthusiasts; Tilos, known for its ecological park; and Patmos, a major pilgrimage site because Saint John, one of Jesus’ disciples, lived in a cave there. Then there’s Astypalea, the westernmost island of the archipelago, which resembles the Cyclades most; and other gems like Kassos, Kastellorizo, Nisyros, Patmos, Symi, and above all, the two largest—Rhodes and Kos.
Angela: so which one did you choose to start our journey through the Dodecanese?
Piero: I picked Kos!
Here we are in Kos…
Angela: It may not be the most charming island in the archipelago, and it’s certainly a well-trodden tourist route. But if you choose the right time of year, Kos rewards you with crystal-clear waters and countless things to see and do.
Piero: Kos has its own airport, and the flight from Italy takes just under three hours. The airport is located right in the heart of the island, not too close to the main town, Kos Town. The island offers hotels and resorts to suit all tastes.
Angela: for our one-week stay, we picked a resort near Kardamena, on the southern side of the island. It faces the island of Nisyros, is only ten minutes from the airport, and about thirty minutes from Kos Town. This southern coast is also more sheltered from the wind than the northern side.
Piero: Kos lies less than 5 kilometers from the Turkish coast and has a distinctive crescent shape. It’s 45 kilometers long, so it’s very easy to explore the whole island.
Angela: aside from Kos Town, there are only a handful of small towns: Kardamena, Kefalos, Tigaki, Antimachia, Mastichari, Marmari, and Pili.
Piero: the island is famous as the birthplace of Hippocrates, considered the father of modern medicine. Here you’ll find the ruins of the Asklepion, the first known hospital in history.
Angela: the history of Kos dates back to the Bronze Age. Archaeological traces show that small communities lived off fishing and farming. The first major civilizations to settle here were the Minoans, followed by the Mycenaeans. Later came the Carians, who gave the island its ancient name, Caria—later transformed into Kos (or Coos), even mentioned by Homer in the Iliad: according to legend, the island sent thirty ships to the Trojan War. During the Dorian period, Kos became part of the Athenian League.
Piero: the island reached its peak during the Hellenistic era, starting with the founding of the ancient city of Kos in 366 BC. Many marble monuments and temples were built at that time. In the 1st century BC, the Romans took over, turning the island into an important trading port. It became incredibly wealthy, and life was luxurious—as seen in the remains of the Roman Villa and its thermal baths, filled with mosaics and fine objects. When the Roman Empire split, Kos entered the Byzantine era and continued to prosper through commerce.
Angela: but around 400 AD, a devastating earthquake followed by a tsunami destroyed the island. Kos didn’t fully recover for centuries. During the Middle Ages, it was nearly abandoned until the Genoese and Venetians arrived to capitalize on its strategic location. Just before the Ottomans took over, the Knights of Malta ruled Kos for a short time, aiming to protect pilgrims en route to the Holy Land.
Piero: in 1912, Kos entered its Italian era, which brought modernization to the island. However, a major earthquake in 1933 led to reconstruction in a distinctly fascist architectural style—traces of which can still be seen today. That same period allowed the Italian Archaeological School to uncover many ruins of the ancient city. During World War II, the island was occupied by the Germans, and the local Jewish population was exterminated. A tragic episode occurred here in October 1943: similar to what happened in Kefalonia, the Nazis executed 103 Italian officers. After the war, Kos became a British military protectorate—along with the rest of the Dodecanese—and was officially unified with Greece on March 7, 1948.
Angela: from that fairly recent date begins Kos’s modern story—one of tourism. Today, the island offers exactly what you'd expect from a Greek island: stunning beaches, turquoise waters, lively nightlife, great food, lush nature, and of course, plenty of culture and archaeology.
Discovering Kos
Piero: now we’re ready to explore this beautiful island.
Angela: as soon as we arrive, to settle in and recover from the journey, we enjoy the beach and sea at Kardamena. Perfect for those traveling with children like us, the beach has fine, light-colored sand and some rocks that make the snorkeling really interesting. As mentioned, this southern area is less windy, well-equipped, and still offers plenty of open spaces—it’s one of the locals’ favorite beaches. There are also great spots for an aperitif with the sea as a backdrop, and many tavernas where you can enjoy delicious seafood dishes.
Piero: a tip: don’t miss an amazing ride on a large inflatable banana boat pulled at full speed by a motorboat—an unforgettable experience for both adults and kids!
Angela: on our second day, we immediately start exploring the island’s beauties: we decide to visit the Asklepion first, followed by the capital, Kos Town. So, we rent a car and we’re ready to go!
Piero: we begin with the Asklepion, located on the road to Kos Town just a few kilometers from the city, in a beautiful hilly area. It is the most important archaeological site on Kos—a complex of temples dedicated to Asclepius (Latin: Aesculapius), the god of medicine. According to myth, Asclepius was the son of Apollo and dared to challenge the gods by trying to resurrect Hippolytus with a magical herb given to him by a serpent. For this, he was punished and struck down by Zeus. Because of this story, Asclepius’ symbol is a serpent coiled around a staff—the same symbol still used today by pharmacists. The sanctuary also functioned as a hospital and wellness center, where sick people were treated by physician-priests. Its fame in the Greek world was linked to the physician Hippocrates, although it’s uncertain if he ever actually worked there, since the sanctuary was built in the 4th century BC—around the time of Hippocrates’ death. Nonetheless, thanks to many other renowned doctors, patients traveled from far and wide to be treated there.
Angela: built on the slope of a hill, the sanctuary consists of three terraces on different levels connected by stairways. On the first level, you can still see the foundations of the patients’ rooms and the baths; the second level houses the structures for the physician-priests and a temple dedicated to Apollo, while the highest level contains the remains of the temple and altar dedicated to Asclepius.
Piero: the archaeological site was uncovered only in 1902 and is not perfectly preserved, due to various occupations and especially the many earthquakes that have struck the island over time. Entrance is paid for adults but the fee is very modest. It’s best to visit early in the morning to avoid the heat. A full visit takes about an hour.
Angela: after cooling off from our walk under the sun, we get back in the car to head to Kos Town.
Piero: our first stop is the Roman villa. It’s a 3rd-century AD patrician villa, an important testament to the island’s wealth during the Roman and Hellenistic periods, discovered after the 1933 earthquake while the Italians were clearing the rubble.
Angela: the villa consists of as many as 36 rooms, all frescoed and decorated with statues, artifacts, and stunning mosaics, along with three atriums, each featuring a fountain at its center.
Piero: the fascist-era reconstruction was done carefully, though perhaps with a bit too much cement. Entrance is paid, about 6 euros for adults.
Angela: now we head into Kos Town itself and start with a nice walk through the center. The city is a fascinating architectural blend of East and West, reflecting the island’s history: you can admire numerous Islamic mosques alongside buildings in the typical fascist style.
Piero: earthquakes have been a defining factor for this city. Its founding dates back to 366 BC, when a powerful earthquake destroyed the ancient city of Astypalea; frightened by the wrath of the gods, the inhabitants moved to the coast, giving rise to the city—which was apparently much larger than today’s. As mentioned, the 1933 earthquake and subsequent excavations uncovered part of the city’s former glory.
Angela: we start our visit at the central square, packed with bars and taverns, some with the typical tables set under trees to shelter from the heat. We stop here for lunch and to refresh ourselves.
Piero: after lunch, we stay right in the square to visit the Archaeological Museum, built by the Italians in the 1930s. The museum mainly houses Hellenistic and Roman artifacts and is definitely worth a visit.
Angela: we head toward the harbor and continue our visit with the remains of the agora. The square was once surrounded by temples; you can still see the ruins of the temples of Aphrodite and Heracles. Also visible are the remains of the harbor walls and the market columns, which enclosed the agora on three sides. There was also a colonnaded portico about 150 meters long, of which only a few columns remain standing.
Piero: leaving the agora, we come across one of Kos’s most iconic symbols: the Plane Tree of Hippocrates. According to legend, under this massive tree, the first physician in history held his lessons. In reality, that’s just a myth—the tree is only about 700 years old (give or take), and because of its age, it needs a support structure to hold it up. Still, this doesn’t lessen the mythical charm of the place: it’s not uncommon to see groups of people seeking the tree’s healing energy by spending long periods meditating beneath it.
Angela: right in front of the Plane Tree square is the bridge that leads to the 15th-century Knights’ Castle. It’s called that because it was built by the Knights of the Order of Saint John (today known as the Knights of Malta) during the Crusades. Today, it’s known as Neratzia Castle and is in a state of serious neglect; moreover, due to recent earthquakes, it is currently inaccessible. All that remains is to take a walk along the walls, the only part still perfectly preserved.
Piero: walking along the walls, we reach the end of the pier. There’s a constant comings and goings of ferries, tourist boats, and unique sailing ships that, lively and noisy, start and end their excursions here. At the end of the pier, you can clearly see the Turkish coast. With more time, one might even consider a trip to Bodrum.
Angela: on our way back to the car, we stroll along the waterfront and take the chance to buy some souvenirs.
Piero: before leaving Kos Town for good, we have one last stop: the Odeon. It’s a small Roman-era theater restored in the 1930s and then heavily renovated again in 2000, with perhaps too much cement. Today, it’s used for theatrical and musical performances—nothing particularly remarkable.
The village of Zia
Angela: the next day, still with the car at our disposal, we decided to visit the village of Zia. We chose to go in the morning, but made a big mistake for two reasons: first, because at this time it’s very crowded due to tourists arriving on cruise buses, making parking a real challenge; second, and more importantly, because the village is famous for offering the best sunset view on Kos. Oh well, we missed it, but I suggest not making the same mistake.
Piero: the village is really charming though. It’s located inland, at the foot of Mount Dikeos—the highest on the island—about a half-hour drive from Kardamena, roughly halfway between Kos Town and Kardamena.
Angela: it’s truly enchanting to stroll through the narrow streets and admire the traditional houses that give the village a magical touch. The climb toward the village summit is lined with countless souvenir shops and tavernas where you can savor delicious Greek cuisine.
Piero: once we reach the upper part of the village, we find the Orthodox church and, more importantly, a breathtaking panoramic view of the entire island.
The beach of Agios Stefanos
Angela: Kos is home to many stunning beaches. In the windy northern part, you’ll find Marmari with its dunes, Mastichari with its Caribbean-like vibe, and Tigaki, the island’s longest beach. Near Kos Town is Lambi, the city’s main beach. To the south, there’s Kardamena—where we based ourselves—then Paradise Beach and Kefalos, located on the island’s westernmost tip. But we decided to stop at one of the most beautiful and charming beaches of all: Agios Stefanos (Saint Stephen).
Piero: it’s located about twenty kilometers west of Kardamena. It’s a beautiful beach with a wide shoreline that’s partly sandy and partly rocky. The sea, of course, is fantastic—clear and crystal blue—with gently sloping seabeds. What makes it truly special, however, is the presence of ancient Christian temples right near the shore. These buildings date back to the 5th–6th centuries AD, and you can still clearly see the remains of columns and mosaic floors. It’s a fascinating setting where you can easily choose to dive into the sea or into history.
Angela: what makes this place even more enchanting is a small rocky islet located just 200 meters offshore, which seems to stand guard over the bay.
Piero: this is Kastri, topped by the iconic white church with a blue dome dedicated to Agios Nikolaos, the patron saint of sailors. The islet can be reached by swimming, and during low tide, even on foot. It’s a local tradition to swim out to the islet, climb the rocks, and ring a small bell located beside the church.
Therma: the natural spa
Angela: Kos has many beautiful beaches to visit, and Therma is definitely not one of the most attractive. With its black sand and pebbles, it’s not particularly charming on its own.
Piero: we’re about ten kilometers south of Kos Town, but what attracted us here are the hot thermal springs that flow through an underground channel and mix with the seawater.
Angela: at the far end of the beach, natural rock formations create a thermal pool right by the sea, with water temperatures reaching nearly 50 degrees Celsius. It’s a natural spa offering many health benefits, but above all, the pure pleasure of soaking and relaxing by the sea.
Piero: the water is rich in sulfur, potassium, calcium, chlorine, and magnesium; the name Therma comes from Greek and means “heat,” a tribute to these hot springs of volcanic origin.
Angela: the beach and natural thermal baths aren’t the easiest to reach—they’re hidden beneath the massive mountain that towers above, which only adds to their allure. Some adventurous visitors drive down a steep, unpaved road, but feeling dizzy, we decided to park at the top and walk under the sun to this seemingly otherworldly place. It’s not uncommon to see a little goat climbing the mountain or strolling over sunbathers’ towels, just like what happened to us...
Piero: despite this magical, unspoiled atmosphere, the beach is quite popular, though it retains its natural charm. There are no bars or facilities, so it’s wise to bring your own food and plenty of water—essential to avoid dehydration under the sun, especially in such a warm area.
Goodbye Kos
Angela: even though it’s now a well-visited tourist destination, some corners of Kos still hold an unmatched charm.
Piero: for those like us who love the sea but always want something new to discover and see, Kos is the perfect balance.
Angela: the mix of three days relaxing on the beach and three days exploring the island worked out wonderfully. Maybe it’s our love for the Greek islands, but we really loved Kos too!