New Year's Eve on the French Riviera: a journey through history, art, and winter by the sea
The French Riviera welcomes winter with a light that seems to hover between sea and sky. Saint-Tropez, usually bustling with crowds, reveals its most authentic essence: the silent harbor, pastel-colored houses reflected in the water, and the majestic Citadel standing watch from above. In Cannes, New Year's Eve bursts into a spectacle of lights along the Croisette, as fireworks illuminate the sea.
In Antibes, the wind brushes against the ancient walls designed by Vauban, and along the waterfront stands the Monument to Migrants, a silent witness to distant stories. In the medieval villages of Cagnes-sur-Mer and Saint-Paul-de-Vence, time flows slowly through stone alleys and art galleries, where the names of Chagall and Modigliani still echo.
The final day is dedicated to Nice: from the Church of Saint Nicholas, gleaming with its golden domes, to the Promenade des Anglais, stretching elegantly along the Mediterranean. The journey comes to an end, but the French Riviera leaves in the eyes and heart the memory of a winter painted with history, art, and beauty.
Angela: New Year's Eve is approaching, and we haven't planned anything this time…
Piero: that's true. But our van is always ready!
Angela: okay, but what can we do at the last minute with only four days available?
Piero: you know I never run out of ideas. I'd love to enjoy the sea in winter—what do you think about leaving behind these gray, cold days and embracing the light of the Mediterranean?
Angela: I think I know where you're going with this… Not much time, easily accessible seaside destinations, and a perfect place for New Year's Eve. If it's not Liguria, it must be the French Riviera!
Piero: exactly! Pack your bags! In this time of year, it's pretty easy to find a beautiful apartment just steps from the sea.
Cannes, here we come!
Angela: it's amazing how quickly the landscape changes. From bustling cities to charming villages that seem frozen in time. We arrive in Cannes, our base for these four days, and we're greeted by palm trees, blue sea, and elegant facades.
Piero: and to think, Cannes was just a small fishing port until the 19th century. Then, British and Russian aristocrats started vacationing here in winter, and it quickly became one of the most exclusive destinations on the Riviera.
Angela: the Cannes Film Festival did the rest! We barely have time to drop off our luggage before heading out for a lovely stroll and an aperitif along the famous Croisette.
Piero: the Promenade de la Croisette runs along the entire Cannes coastline. It's a stunning two-kilometer seaside walk, bordered on one side by sandy beaches and on the other by luxury hotels and high-end boutiques. Every May, the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès, located along this boulevard, hosts the prestigious Cannes Film Festival.
Angela: I get the feeling we won't be spending too much more time in Cannes, but we definitely won’t miss the spectacular New Year's Eve fireworks over the sea!
Piero: exactly! New Year's Eve in Cannes is a dazzling display of lights and celebrations. The Croisette, the Palais des Festivals, the luxury hotels, and the entire city are illuminated for the occasion. After our New Year's Eve dinner, we’ll be on the beach at midnight, watching the fireworks reflect on the water. But for now, let's get ready for our first stop tomorrow: Saint-Tropez!
Saint-Tropez: winter by the sea and the charm of an artists' village
Angela: as soon as we arrive in Saint-Tropez, the air smells different. The sea breeze carries the scent of pâtisseries baking the famous Tarte Tropézienne, the pastry created in the 1950s and made famous by Brigitte Bardot.
Piero: what a sight! The harbor is a still mirror, dotted with yachts and fishing boats.
Angela: it’s fascinating to see Saint-Tropez like this. We're used to imagining it as a summer party hotspot, but in winter, it has a much more authentic soul. And the Christmas decorations make it even more magical.
Piero: let’s wander into the heart of the village, past pastel-colored houses and cobblestone alleys, until we reach Place des Lices, where people still play pétanque under ancient plane trees.
Angela: did you know that this square has been the center of town life since the Middle Ages? It hosted markets, gatherings, even public executions. Today, it’s a place for games and quiet conversations.
Piero: the history of Saint-Tropez is incredible. It was originally a Greek trading post called Athenopolis, later renamed Heraclea under the Romans. But its current name comes from a legendary story: during Nero's reign, the Christian martyr Saint Torpes was beheaded in Pisa, and his headless body was set adrift in a boat with a dog and a rooster. The currents carried him to Heraclea, where he was venerated as a saint.
Angela: that’s quite a story! Saint-Tropez remained a simple fishing village until the mid-20th century, when it became internationally famous thanks to the 1957 film "And God Created Woman", which launched Brigitte Bardot as a global icon. Since then, the town has been a favorite spot for celebrities and filmmakers.
Piero: before we leave, let's climb to the Citadel, a 17th-century fortress built to defend the coast from Barbary pirates. The view from up here is breathtaking: the sea stretches out before us, framed by the Maures Massif.
Angela: today the fortress houses a maritime museum. now we have to go back to Cannes for a special evening… But first, enjoy our walk in this video:
Antibes: following Picasso’s footsteps between ancient walls and the sea
Piero: on our second day, we head to Antibes, one of the most fascinating towns on the French Riviera. We enter through its massive walls, designed in the 17th century by the military engineer Vauban.
Angela: this was once an ancient Greek port, founded in the 5th century BC by settlers from Marseille and called Antipolis. It thrived during Roman and medieval times before becoming a retreat for artists and writers. Victor Hugo wrote: "Here, everything shines, everything blooms, everything sings."
Piero: many famous painters, including Monet, Signac, and De Staël, captured Antibes’ incomparable light on canvas.
Angela: walking along the ramparts, we reach the Monument to Migrants, a striking sculpture that tells the stories of those who crossed the sea in search of a new life.
Piero: and look at that sea! This was once one of the Mediterranean’s most important harbors. Today, Port Vauban is the largest marina in Europe and the second largest in the world.
Angela: speaking of artists, Picasso lived here for a time, painting directly on the walls of the Grimaldi Castle, which now houses the Picasso Museum — unfortunately closed today!
Piero: along the walls we admire the bronze sculpture by Nicolas Lavarenne, a recent installation full of charm.
Angela: we walk through the historic center, among narrow streets full of artisan workshops and the scent of lavender coming out of the shops.
Piero: before leaving, the last stop at Fort Carré.
Angela: it is a 16th century fortress that stands on the ruins of the Temple of Mercury; it is one of the greatest examples of military architecture in Europe and Napoleon Bonaparte was imprisoned here.
Piero: before leaving, enjoy our walk in this video:
Medieval Villages: Cagnes-sur-Mer and Saint-Paul-de-Vence
Angela: today, we venture inland to visit two extraordinary medieval villages. The first stop is Cagnes-sur-Mer, specifically its historic heart, Haut-de-Cagnes. It’s like stepping back in time—stone houses, arched passageways, and absolute tranquility.
Piero: up there is the Grimaldi Castle, built in the 14th century as a strategic stronghold between the sea and hills.
Angela: many artists fell in love with this place—Renoir, Modigliani, and Chagall among them. Climbing up is tough, but the peaceful atmosphere is worth it.
Piero: next, we head to Saint-Paul-de-Vence, a village that’s like an open-air art gallery. Artists like Chagall, Matisse, and Modigliani lived here, and their influence is everywhere.
Angela: did you know Chagall lived here for twenty years? He’s buried in the village cemetery.
Piero: after a stop at a bistro with a panoramic view, we head back to Cannes, just in time for sunset… but before, enjoy our walk in this video
Nice: from Russia to the sea
Angela: it’s time to pack our bags. But before we leave, let’s enjoy our last day on the French Riviera and our final stop: Nice.
Piero: Nice is often considered the capital of the French Riviera, a city that’s always lively, always celebrating. But it’s also a paradise for art lovers, with world-class museums like the Chagall Museum, the Matisse Museum, the MAMAC (Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art), and the Museum of Fine Arts.
Angela: the name probably comes from the ancient Greek Νίκαια (Níkaia), which itself derives from Nike, meaning "victory." Like many other cities on the Côte d'Azur, it was founded by the Greeks. Over the centuries, it saw Roman and medieval rule while maintaining a degree of independence, later aligning with the House of Savoy. Nice is also the birthplace of one of Italy’s most important historical figures: Giuseppe Garibaldi.
Piero: the general was born in Nice when it was still Italian. In 1860, as part of the Plombières agreements signed by Cavour two years earlier, Nice was ceded to France in exchange for Napoleon III’s recognition of the annexation of central Italian regions to the Kingdom of Sardinia. Garibaldi and the local population strongly opposed this, leading to a wave of pro-Italian residents leaving after the French army crushed the so-called "Nizzardi Vespers" uprising.
Angela: the Belle Époque turned Nice into one of Europe’s most prestigious destinations, attracting German, Austrian, and Russian nobles who sought the Riviera’s mild winters. In the last century, the city has become increasingly multicultural, which may have contributed to the tragic attacks in recent years. Since 2021, Nice has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized as a “Winter Resort City of the Riviera.” It remains busy year-round, thanks to its blend of old-town charm and elegant Belle Époque architecture.
Piero: let’s start with the Church of Saint Nicholas, the largest Orthodox church outside of Russia, commissioned by Tsar Nicholas II for the Russian community here.
Angela: sembra di essere a Mosca! Le cupole dorate brillano sotto il sole.
Piero: it feels like we’ve stepped into Moscow! The golden domes shine under the sun.
Angela: after visiting the church, we head down to the Promenade des Anglais, the most famous seaside boulevard in France.
Angela: it’s fascinating to think that this promenade was created by the English, who wintered here in the 19th century and wanted a scenic walkway by the sea.
Piero: strolling along just a small stretch of its seven kilometers is breathtaking. On one side, you have grand historic buildings, arcades, and charming squares; on the other, the stunning blue sea.
Angela: this promenade also hosts world-famous events, from the Nice Carnival—renowned for its Battle of Flowers—to the Paris-Nice cycling race.
Piero: from the waterfront, we move toward Place Masséna, a magnificent square surrounded by pastel-colored buildings, with the striking Fountain of the Sun at its center, featuring a statue of Apollo.
Angela: now, we step into the Vieux Nice, the old town—a postcard-perfect maze of narrow streets and alleyways, bursting with boutique shops and market stalls. It feels like we’ve traveled back to the 18th century, with its ancient buildings and baroque churches.
Piero: a stop at a local pastry shop is a must! From the Hôtel de Ville, we wander through the picturesque flower market before reaching the Cathedral of Sainte-Réparate.
Angela: before leaving Nice, let’s make a quick visit to the Basilica of Notre-Dame, the city’s largest church, built in neo-Gothic style after Nice was annexed by France.
Piero: from here, we continue our tour of the old town without a set path, getting lost in its labyrinth of streets, discovering hidden corners to capture in photos. Enjoy our walk in this short video!
Au revoir Côte d'Azur
Angela: before we get back into our van, we take a moment to gaze at the horizon and the sea. This journey is coming to an end, but the French Riviera has gifted us four days of history, art, and beauty.
Piero: we’ll be back and next time, maybe in spring!