Coimbra
Angela: 120 kilometers heading south; just over an hour by car and we’re there. We find parking easily and begin our tour.
Piero: Coimbra is one of those cities you fall in love with instantly and never want to leave. It has an ancient history, and its university is one of the oldest in Europe.
Angela: despite its traditions, Coimbra is a very lively city today.
Piero: there’s so much to see: the University, of course, the two cathedrals—Sé Nova and Sé Velha (Sé means Sede Episcopalis, or bishop’s seat)—the Rua de Quebra Costas, which connects the lower and upper parts of the city, and finally the Monastery of Santa Cruz.
Angela: let’s start with a walk through the Baixa (the part outside the old city walls), where you absolutely have to try the pastéis de Santa Clara or arrufadas, Coimbra’s traditional sweets, in one of the many cafés.
Piero: It’s also worth stopping by one of the local shops that sell canned seafood. Besides the quality of the products, some of them are so colorful they look like real museums—Comur is perhaps the most beautiful! The shop staff are often highly knowledgeable students—it’s really worth listening to them...
Angela: now it’s time to head uphill toward the upper town—a pleasant but tiring climb, rewarded by the many wonders waiting to be seen!
Piero: we start with the Sé Velha, the old cathedral, whose steps host the traditional serenade in which students, dressed in black cloaks, passionately sing the Fado de Coimbra to celebrate the end of their degree.
Angela: the cathedral was built in Romanesque style in the 12th century, after the previous church was destroyed during a Muslim attack. The fortified exterior, the battlements at the top, and the narrow lower windows—practically arrow slits—show just how real the Moorish threat was when the cathedral was built.
Piero: It’s worth strolling through the cloisters and listening to the stories shared by the student guides—they offer great introductions and explanations.
Angela: we continue climbing and reach the Sé Nova, the imposing and austere new cathedral, which stands high on the hill, overlooking the square of the same name in the old town.
Piero: we finally arrive at the true jewel of this city: the University!
Angela: a center of knowledge among the most important in Europe, the University of Coimbra—UNESCO World Heritage Site—dates back to the 13th century and is one of the oldest in the world.
Piero: it is located in the old medieval palace and overlooks the city from above, with a breathtaking view of the Mondego River.
Angela: it’s a complex of buildings of great artistic interest, accessed through the Porta Férrea, all arranged around the beautiful square dominated at the center by the statue of King João II.
Piero: the clock tower is wonderful, with its bells once marking the rhythm of the lessons; don’t miss a photo of the Pátio das Escolas and especially the Sala dos Capelos (the “hall of academic acts”), where the most important ceremonies are held.
Angela: now we need a lunch break. We stop at one of the many taverns scattered around the area, which, along with the Repúblicas—the student residences—bring life to the city.
Piero: right after lunch, we focus on the true heart of the University: visiting the Joanina Library and the chapel of São Miguel.
Angela: the library, one of the most beautiful and ornate in Europe, houses over three hundred thousand ancient volumes; its beauty also comes from the old shelves and the paintings decorating it. Note: photography and filming are not allowed!
Piero: the small and charming chapel of São Miguel is enhanced by azulejos panels, the large altarpiece, and the baroque-style organ.
Angela: at this point, after taking one last look at the view from the balcony of the square, we return to the lower part of the city to visit the Monastery of Santa Cruz.
Piero: we enjoy the last images of the sun setting over the river before we set off again. but first, let’s enjoy the show once more in this short video!
Angela: on the way back to Porto, we make a short stop halfway in Aveiro.
Piero: a brief walk on the beach at sunset, then we set off again.
Angela: once back in Porto, we get organized for dinner: we booked at “O Buraquinho da Sé.”
Piero: we chose it because the reviews praised the chef’s skill in cooking octopus.
Angela: but there are no words that can truly do justice to how extraordinarily and expertly it’s prepared!
Piero: the atmosphere is wonderful too, in this tiny place right in the city center, along the steps leading up to the cathedral (the Sé). absolutely unmissable!
Angela: tired after the day, now it’s time to sleep.
