Let’s go!
Tutto inizia con un'idea.
A family trip, discovering the Balkans
Angela: let's get ready this time for a really special trip!
Piero: definitely, for the itinerary, the period of the year and for the places we will visit!
Angela: one week, five stops, three countries ... four thousand kilometers following the path of the Balkans to the south!
Piero: it is also very peculiar how we will travel: with our fantastic (rented) van!
Angela: we will drive and the children can stay all together ...
Piero: in this way time will pass faster and we will not get tired easily.
Angela: more space for everyone, especially for suitcases ... and lots of laughs all together!
Piero: when traveling on New Year's Eve, we have to put a bit more attention on the clothes in our bags. the weather may not always be good and because we will move several times from the sea to the hinterland and vice versa.
Angela: tell me more about the program: how did you organize the trip?
Piero: we leave early in the morning and the first we will visit both Trieste and Ljubljana; then we will move to Zagreb; we stay there for three nights and then we will move south, to Ston. We will visit Dubrovnik and Mostar; the last day we will drive back home!
Angela: quite an intense itinerary! Let's not waste time then: start the engine, let's drive!
These are the stories:
Trieste
Bellissima, colta, forse la città più cosmopolita d’Italia: sono evidenti gli incroci di lingue, popoli e religioni. Soprattutto si intuisce a prima vista la sua anima a un tempo mitteleuropea e mediterranea. Città dal passato glorioso in cui è forte l’impronta asburgica, che ne ha fatto la piccola Vienna sul mare. Cuore della città è la più bella e la più simbolica delle sue piazze, oggi dedicata all’Unità d’Italia. I palazzi che vi si affacciano sono una sintesi perfetta della storia di Trieste. E’ anche la città dei caffè letterari dal fascio retrò che hanno attratto grandi autori come James Joyce, Italo Svevo, Umberto Saba.
First and only stop in Italy during this journey to discover the Balkans.
Piero: in our journey to the Balkans we pass through Trieste. We will stay only a few hours, though (even if it probably deserves more than that).
Angela: when you enter the city, you do not feel the typical welcome of other Italian cities, Trieste seems quite different. However, like all border towns, it has so much to discover and an important story to tell.
Piero: due to its geographical position and its troubled history, Trieste is a fascinating city that over time has attracted artists and writers, such as Stendhal and Joyce.
Angela: we park easily in the town center and we then move towards the Molo Audace; by the way, do you know why it's called that?
Piero: in honour of the destroyer Audace, the first ship of the Italian Navy to arrive in Trieste, after the end of the First World War.
Angela: to welcome us in our walk along the pier there are the sea and the bora (a wind in areas near the Adriatic Sea)!
Piero: once we reach the end of the pier, we turn our sight towards the city and appreciate the first great wonder: Piazza Unità d'Italia (the square which celebrates the unified Italy)!
Angela: a wonderful square, probably one of the largest directly overlooking the sea: undoubtedly beautiful!
Piero: this square has been renamed several times. It was Piazza San Pietro (St. Peter’s Square) first, then Piazza Grande and finally the current name.
Angela: being in the center of this square has a unique charm; on three sides we have wonderful buildings that refer to the Austro-Hungarian style: first the Palace of the Austrian Lieutenancy seat of the Prefecture, then Palazzo Stratti, again Palazzo Modello (seat of the Town Hall), Palazzo Pitteri (the oldest in the square), next to an hotel in Palazzo Vanoli, ending with the Palazzo della Regione.
Piero: the fourth side is as beautiful as the other sides. It is where the sea is.
Angela: you cannot miss a stop at the famous Caffè degli Specchi, before walking towards the old city.
Piero: we pass through Piazza della Borsa and from via Roma we reach the canal: we are in the Borgo Teresiano and it is worth stopping on the Ponte Rosso (Red Bridge) to admire the view.
Angela: we walk along the canal until we reach the beautiful church of Saint Anthony.
Piero: next to the church there are also the Serbian-Orthodox temple of the Holy Trinity and of St. Spiridione.
Angela: walking back towards Ponte Rosso, we didn’t notice the bronze statue of James Joyce before: it is part of a group of three statues dedicated to writers; the other two depict Umberto Saba and Italo Svevo. One last photo to the canal with the church of St. Anthony in the background and we go back to our van.
Piero: we could only visit a few places, considering the little time available. However, this was enough to convince us that we should return to Trieste some other time.
Angela: let's get ready to leave Italy immediately after lunch.
Piero: you can find HERE all the images of this wonderful city.
Angela: also, watch this beautiful video!
Ljubljana
Breve visita nell’incantevole capitale della Slovenia. Purtroppo solo una breve visita nel lungo viaggio alla scoperta dei balcani.
A quick stop in the capital city of Slovenia
Piero: leaving Trieste we have to drive just under 100 kilometers, an hour by car, to reach Ljubljana.
Angela: stop at the last service station in Italy to buy the Slovenian vignette, which is necessary to drive on the Slovenian highway as soon as you cross the border.
Piero: we reach the capital in the early afternoon and we immediately approach the city center: the time available is not much and must be optimized.
Angela: Ljubljana is a quiet and romantic city and has a very rich cultural heritage resulting from contaminations over time.
Piero: the city center can be easily explored walking and the main attractions are all concentrated there.
Angela: we start from Prešeren Square, one of the main squares of the city, and from there we continue until we reach the banks of the Ljubljanica river that crosses the city.
Piero: having a bit more time available, it could have been nice taking a boat ride: next time!
Angela: the riverside is full of nice cafes and clubs that are crowded especially at night; during this period of the year, the atmosphere is filled with magic with the Christmas lights that make Ljubljana even more fascinating.
Piero: the castle on the other side of the river dominates the city: the sunset makes its profile less severe than usual.
Angela: we arrive at what is one of the main attractions of the city: the Dragon Bridge.
Piero: four green winged dragons guard this arched bridge. The legend says that the Greek hero Jason, founder of the city, killed the dragon that lived in the swamp near the source of the Ljubljanica river. The bridge and the dragon are so important to the city that they are their symbol on the flag.
Angela: we continue our walk and reach the central market area: the wooden houses are decorated for the Christmas holidays and they make this place, which is always interesting, even more fascinating.
Piero: we decide to tackle the challenging climb to the castle even if we could have used the funicular.
Angela: this building dates back to the Middle Ages and later became the property of the Habsburgs.
Piero: with the exception of the external walls and the chapel of St. George, all the main buildings of the castle were rebuilt in the 16th and 17th centuries following the terrible earthquake of 1515.
Angela: it was a prison for a long time, today the castle is a popular tourist destination where concerts, cultural events, exhibitions and performances take place. The play of lights inside and outside which attracts children are simply fantastic.
Piero: being a reconstructed castle, it has certainly lost much of its ancient charm. The toy museum is definitely worth seeing inside, but above all you should visit the panoramic tower from which you can enjoy a privileged view of the whole city.
Angela: at this point it's dark and it's time to go back. But let's take a different route to see the last two things in town.
Piero: certainly not least important. These are two of the most important symbols of the city: the Cathedral of St. Nicholas and the Triple Bridge.
Angela: we can only visit the cathedral from the outside though: the two bronze portals are very beautiful, as well as the two bell towers and the dome. Nearby there are the Robba Fountain, which recalls Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona (Rome), and the town hall.
Piero: to reach the point where we started we have to cross the river again and we do it from another symbol of the city: the Triple Bridge.
Angela: it is a very special bridge: the original project included only one driveway bridge; the increase in city traffic has led to the construction of two other pedestrian bridges on the sides, oblique to the central one: today, of course, they can only be accessed on foot.
Piero: the time available for Ljubljana is over; it is a very quiet and nice city in which it is certainly worth spending a weekend or even making it the base for a wider tour of Slovenia.
Angela: next time; to the van now: let’s go to Zagreb!
Zagreb: visiting the city in two days!
Da non perdere per chi vuole ammirare il suggestivo aspetto di una città che ha saputo mantenere la sua complessa storia e fare di questa commistione di stili: da quello maestoso dell’epoca austro-ungarica fino alle austere costruzioni del periodo socialista. Zagabria è la porta dei Balcani, nonostante sia molto forte la sua natura europea. La cattedrale, la chiesa di San Marco, i musei e i parchi sono sicuramente le attrazioni da non perdere; affascinante e travolgente è però un passaggio a Kamenita Vrata, la porta di pietra dove la galleria è illuminata da decine di candele, la cui luce, mossa dal vento rischiara le tante targhe commemorative.
Just arrived into the Croatian capital city
Piero: from Ljubljana to Zagreb we cover the 150 kilometers that divide them driving our van. The quality of the roads are good therefore in just over an hour we are in the Croatian capital.
Angela: just in time to have dinner, then we will go to our apartment.
Piero: once again we have avoided hotels, choosing the solution of the guest house.
Angela: our choice fell on Irundo Downtown Apartments: the apartments are located in the town center, very close to Ban Jelačić Square.
Piero: the location is fantastic because it will give us the opportunity to reach all the places we want to visit at a walking distance.
Angela: you have to pay attention to a small detail: being a pedestrian area, you cannot reach it by van; it is therefore necessary to have light luggages or wheels to transport them easily from the parking just outside the town center.
Piero: it is just a minor inconvenience: if you know it before getting there you could avoid wasting time.
Angela: the entrance and the stairs, despite being in the town center, are austere and not exactly welcoming. Having said that, the apartments are excellent, not very large but sufficient to meet the needs of two families with children.
Piero: after a well deserved rest, we are ready to start our two days tour of Zagreb!
Angela: what about the city?
Piero: it is one of the less known European capitals, still free from mass tourism. We are often led to imagine Croatia as a summer holiday destination, but its capital Zagreb is an exciting city to visit both in summer and winter. It has the typical charm of the old Austro-Hungarian continental Europe. Zagreb is also a young and modern city. Christmas period is perfect to visit it considering that Zagreb has won the Best Christmas Market award for two consecutive years.
Angela: what does our program include?
Piero: Zagreb is divided into two distinct areas, connected by a funicular: the upper city and the lower city. The first stands on a hill and it is the oldest part of the Croatian capital, with historic buildings and important churches; the second is a more recent area, where the main museums of the city are concentrated and where you can admire interesting examples of nineteenth and twentieth century architecture. Since we will spend two days in the city, we will divide our itinerary as follows:
First day in the upper town
Angela: let's go then! Where do we start?
Piero: let's start with one of the symbols of the city: the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary!
Angela: it is an massive neo-Gothic structure in which the two twin spiers, more than a hundred meters high, stand out, visible from practically anywhere in the city. It dates back to the 13th century and its current face is the result of a series of works and restorations that have interested it over the centuries. Very nice to see during the day but also with the lights on at night. Recently the spiers were, once again, damaged by an earthquake.
Piero: it is one of the symbolic monuments of the whole country, so much so that it was immediately depicted on local banknotes, the Kuna.
Angela: Speaking of currencies, there are no problems using Kuna or Euros (only the paper ones, some might not accept the coins) in this country.
Piero: it is absolutely worth taking the time to visit the cathedral inside. There are several frescoes, some baroque altars and above all the beautiful stained glass windows.
Angela: we move even more towards the upper part of the city now and, walking through beautiful streets, we reach the Church of St. Mark.
Piero: this is another symbolic building of Zagreb. Its roof stands out: built with white, red and light blue glazed tiles, the colours of Croatia. On the right side of the roof, once again with tiles, the emblem of the city was depicted while on the left the coats of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia (three of the most important territories that form Croatia) were made.
Angela: the church dates back to the 13th century but retains only some parts of the original structure. Very interesting is the Gothic portal, decorated with 15 figures placed in shallow niches, which dates back to the fourteenth century.
Angela: in St. Mark’s Square there are also the buildings of the Croatian Parliament and the one of the President.
Piero: we now cross Ivana Tkalcica street, one of the most cheerful and lively roads in Zagreb: it is full of bars, cafes and restaurants that line the sides of the road. We stop for lunch in one of these. In a small grassy square there is a life-size bronze statue that portrays a lady with a parasol: it is Marija Juric Zagorka, a popular writer and the first female journalist in Croatia. We now reach the highest point of the city, the Lotrscak Tower.
Angela: it is a symbol of Zagreb as well. It was the most important defense point of the city, thanks to its position; it dates back to the 13th century and its name derives from the bell "latruncolorum", or “thieves' bell”: its task every evening was to warn, with its toll, the closure of the city gates to prevent thieves from entering.
Piero: through the Strossmayer promenade, which runs along the walls of some important buildings of the city, fantastically decorated for the Christmas period, full of attractions and full of stalls, we return to our starting point.
Angela: before returning to the apartment, one last stop happens almost by chance ...
Piero: it is one of the places that fascinated me most in Zagreb, despite its extreme simplicity: the Kamenita Vrata, the Stone Gate.
Angela: it is the only of the five city gates left standing. For Croats it is an important pilgrimage destination; it is a very short, downhill road, where also the oldest pharmacy in the city is located.
Piero: I was fascinated by a corner of this door where there is a painting of the Holy Virgin and Child; just under it, dozens of candles burn, lit by devotees who ask the grace of the Virgin. The flames of the candles are all moved together by the wind and the background noise of muttered prayers.
Angela: taking care of the place there is a tireless old woman who constantly moves the candles and cleans the wax, bare handed. A moment of silence and unique spirituality!
Piero: we make the last stop before returning to Ban Jelačić Square, which is just behind our apartments.
Angela: it is the main square of Zagreb, in this period it is quite active both day and night. In a typically Austro-Hungarian style, the surrounding buildings belong to different eras; in the very center there is the statue on horseback of Jelačić, the governor who in 1800 led the troops of Croatia against Hungary.
Piero: a curiosity: the statue was removed by Tito in 1947 and then returned to its place in 1990.
Angela: we are tired now, let’s go to bed! The day was long and dense even if we didn't have to travel a long way: we feel all the walks up and down the city ...
Second day in the downtown
Piero: ok, we are ready for the second and last day in Zagreb! Today we will dedicate ourselves to the visit of the lower part of the city. It can be easily explored on foot, all the scheduled attractions are close to each other.
Angela: our tour starts from what is now called the Croatian Republic Square. It is one of the largest and most important squares in Zagreb and has only taken this name since 2017: previously its name was Marshal Tito Square; it is the cultural center of the city, so much that it is also known to residents as the Theater or University Square.
Piero: the square in fact rises around the Croatian National Theater; on the sides there are the Faculty of Law and the rectorate of the University of Zagreb (one of the oldest in Europe), the Academy of Music with the conservatory and then the Academy of Dramatic Art of the University of Zagreb, the Museum of Arts and Crafts and the School Museum.
Angela: we now move towards Rooseveltov Square where the Mimara Museum is located, perhaps the most important museum in the Croatian capital; there are inside works by Velasquez, Raphael, Rubens and Goya, some rarities from Egypt as well as a beautiful library right next door.
Piero: there are also the Ethnographic Museum and the Museum of Sciences and Techniques nearby.
Angela: we take advantage of the walk for a visit to the markets and typical shops; it is a good opportunity to learn about local customs and to buy something typical for our lunch.
Piero: after lunch we will return to the area again for an extensive visit to the Ledeni Park, the main city attraction in this period, which made the Christmas markets in Zagreb famous.
Angela: it looks like one large park, but it is the result of three of the most beautiful squares in the city together.
Piero: I must say that the whole city contributes to making the Christmas period magical and to making Zagreb the capital of the Christmas markets, but this park alone conquers everyone, young and old.
Angela: it becomes even more beautiful and interesting for children because a giant ice skating rink is installed along the entire path of the square: the central space is very beautiful and then the whole path around the park.
Piero: in addition to the Christmas attractions, these squares host numerous important monuments and statues; towards the end of the park, in front of the central station, there is the equestrian statue of King Tomislav; then you will find the Art Pavilion, a beautiful Art Nouveau building with a yellow facade.
Angela: further up there are the beautiful Habsburg-style palace of the Palace Hotel and the Gallery of Modern Art.
Piero: a walk in this park is a must especially if you are traveling with children and teenagers and especially if you visit Zagreb during the Christmas period.
Angela: at this point we go back to the apartment. We walk again through Ban Jelačić Square, which is getting ready for the celebrations of New Year’s Eve.
Piero: before returning, however, we decide to visit the Belvedere, called Zagreb Eye 360 °: it is a terrace located on the sixteenth floor of the only skyscraper in Zagreb.
Angela: the ascent with the lift is subject to a fee, there are reductions for children under 15 and it is free for the little ones: it is not very cheap, but it is worth it. I always suggest booking in advance to avoid long queues. In addition to the terrace, the sixteenth floor also hosts a bar where we stop for a coffee.
Piero: the terrace offers a privileged view of the beauties of the city from above. Moving around you can enjoy a beautiful view of the entire Croatian capital.
Angela: now we return home to prepare our dinner: being in the town center, we will have dinner at home at home and then we will join the celebrations in the Square of the new year.
Piero: then a walk in the Square accompanied by music, people dancing, fireworks, toasts. After that we will go to bed because tomorrow we leave early heading south to continue our journey to discover the Balkans!
Angela: but first click HERE to review all the images and watch the video that traces our two days tour of Zagreb!
Moving South
Travelling to Ston
Piero: early in the morning, when Zagreb is still asleep after the night of New Year celebrations, we pack up, get on our van and leave.
Angela: we have to travel about 600 kilometers to reach Ston.
Piero: we chose this location, which is not on the main tourist routes, because it seemed like a good starting point for the tours of the last three days.
Angela: it will take us just over seven hours, including a couple of stops.
Piero: we have two different alternatives to reach Ston: driving on the highway to reach Ploče, then taking the ferry to Trpanj and from there travelling south along the Peljesac peninsula until you reach the destination; however, the ferryboat journey is about an hour and there are only four ferries a day; the alternative is going south, crossing the Croatian-Bosnian border twice in a few kilometers until reaching Ston. We chose this second option.
Angela: when you rent the vehicle, make sure you can travel outside the European Union; a small stretch of coast is in fact in Bosnian territory.
Piero: roads and motorways in Croatia, especially in the last decade, have improved considerably: those who remember the old, dangerous and crowded roads along the coast, today will be struck by the modernity of the motorways and above all the beautiful and well-equipped service stations: they are points that satisfy every need of those who travel, even if you travel with children.
Angela: as we drive from the hinterland to the sea the view becomes more and more attractive: the view of the Croatian coast, scattered with greenery with the myriad Dalmatian islands in the background, remained impressed in our memory.
Piero: after a small mishap with customs at the border, we reach Ston in the afternoon.
Angela: we chose this location almost by chance, just because it seemed convenient for our travels. We have to say that it was a very pleasant discovery because it is a beautiful town by the sea and because we found a fantastic accommodation: Apartmani Ponta.
Piero: it is a beautiful accommodation in front of the sea which fascinated us for the beautiful images; I must say that it is one of the very rare cases in which reality exceeds the photos that advertise it. It is a fairly recent construction in which the owners' family also lives; some spacious apartments have been created on the top floor, all very beautiful, spacious, very clean and with attention to every detail; each accommodation also has an enchanting terrace overlooking the sea and the wonderful village.
Angela: the memorable thing was the fantastic welcome of Marijana's family, always available for every need!
Piero: how to forget also the fantastic tray of fresh oysters they used to welcome us?
Angela: if you are planning a vacation in this area, I highly recommend this accommodation!
Piero: as mentioned, Ston is certainly not amongst the famous tourist destinations. It is located on the isthmus that connects the Peljesac Peninsula with continental Croatia and it is usually only a crossing point for those heading to Korcula from there. But Ston is a very quiet town; it is famous for the delicious fish: it is absolutely worth indulging in a succulent dinner of oysters and mussels in its typical restaurants. Ston is a medieval town protected by a wall still preserved today. The walls were built in 1333 and with their 5.5 km in length they represent one of the largest fortification systems in Europe.
Angela: today they are trying to reconstruct the beauty of the medieval village even if the interventions do not always manage to maintain the charm of antiquity.
Piero: in the afternoon, we have time for a stroll along the small beach near our apartment and we entertain the kids playing our own version of volleyball, in a small park nearby.
Angela: for our dinner we trust (luckily!) Marijana's suggestions who book for us one of the typical restaurants we mentioned earlier.
Piero: tired but completely full, after tasting some excellent fish, it's time to enjoy a well-deserved rest!
Dubrovnik
Discovering the “Adriatic Sea Pearl”
Angela: perfectly rested thanks to the tranquility of the environment, we are ready for our day. The sea and the first morning sun immediately put us in a good mood and entice us to discover the wonders of the area.
Piero: we leave early then we head south to Dubrovnik!
Angela: the beauty of the landscape accompanies us during the journey: the small stretch of peninsula that leads from Ston to continental Croatia, in its simplicity, is truly wonderful. The day before, perhaps taken by the tiredness of the journey and the desire to arrive, we did not appreciate it: there is no human intervention, only sea and wild nature.
Piero: we have to travel about sixty kilometers of road along the coast; the beauty of the sea view is interrupted by the many islands that occupy this stretch of the Dalmatian coast.
Angela: it takes us about an hour to get to the gates of Dubrovnik and admire the view from the Franco Tudman Bridge.
Piero: it is a recent construction, started and completed at the turn of the 2000s. It is a cable-stayed bridge five hundred meters long and fifty meters high and it is a symbol of reconstruction after the war in the Balkans of the nineties: its design, in fact, dates back to the war period and it is named after the first president of the free Croatian Republic. It facilitates the journey to reach the city. Back in the days it was necessary to drive along the fjord (which could take you half an hour more).
Angela: maybe the drive along the fjord would have been equally interesting, but the view from the top of the bridge is certainly fascinating. Let's go to Dubrovnik now!
Piero: not yet! We first reach Mount Sergio (Srd in Croatian).
Angela: our goal is to take home the wonderful photo of the red roofs of Dubrovnik from above, embraced by the mighty city walls that welcome the beauty of the sea.
Piero: it is not a very easy road, especially with our van: steep at times, always narrow, a continuum of sharp bends overhanging the sea; help ... dizziness!
Angela: the view fully repays the small sacrifice though! Seen from there, the city and the island of Lacroma in front of it are truly wonderful. Look at the blue tones of the sea, the white stone with which the city is built and the bright red of the roofs!
Piero: from the Mount there is a path that leads directly to the entrance of the old city; the path is not very easy and it is not advisable if you have children. So let's get on board of the van and head to the heart of the city. The top of the mountain can be reached from the city with the cable car.
Angela: parking near the village is really a challenge; there is a paid parking but it is very small. We then stop at the paid public parking just outside. It is convenient and economical and allows us to quickly reach the fortified city through an elegant pedestrian path. Of course the climb won't be easy, but we'll think about it later ...
Piero: now is the time to enjoy this wonderful city! Ancient Ragusa (yes, we are still in Croatia and not in Sicily) with its wonderful historic center is included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites and it is, with good reason, considered the real "pearl of the Adriatic". It boasts a very ancient history, made up of independence and strategic importance. Its foundation dates back to the 7th century AD. It has alternated long periods of independence with the various Byzantine, Venetian, Napoleonic and Austro-Hungarian dominations, always maintaining its pride and autonomy, thanks to its commercial and maritime power.
Angela: after the First World War, with the disintegration of the Austrian empire, Ragusa passes to the Kingdom of Yugoslavia; finally, with the Croatian war of independence, it became part of the newly formed Republic of Croatia.
Piero: today the city has been completely rebuilt and no longer bears the signs of the war: its red roofs, destroyed by bombing, are one of the symbols of the devastation of that period.
Angela: we will enter the old city from the drawbridge located in front of Pile Gate, the main and classic open passage between the imposing walls that surround it.
Piero: it is absolutely worth starting the visit walking along the path on the walls. It is not cheap though, from there you can enjoy a wonderful view of its splendid streets, squares, churches and palaces.
Angela: now let's start our walk around the city starting from its main street, the Stradun. The street is enchanting, no cars allowed, built with white marble slabs which, on sunny days, welcome visitors in all their brightness.
Piero: right at the beginning of the Stradun it is the imposing Oronzo Fountain. Moving even further on, some of the most beautiful buildings in the city in Renaissance and Baroque style overlook the avenue. The most beautiful are certainly the Sponza Palace and the Rector's Palace.
Angela: in addition to the palaces, the center is full of churches and places of worship. Certainly deserve a visit the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin, the synagogue, one of the oldest in the world, the Dominican Monastery with its beautiful cloister and finally the Church of St. Blaise, patron saint of the city, with its altars and the statue of the saint made in silver.
Piero: the Stradun ends with the magnificent Luza Square where the clock tower and the cathedral stand out. On the right of the passage to the left of the tower, we reach another of the most significant areas of the city, the old port. Today it is just a tourist port full of yachts and sailboats; on the shore you can still see the arches of the ancient arsenal, where boats were once built and repaired.
Angela: we finish our walk by reaching the ramparts of Fort Revelin, clearly visible from the port, it once had the task of protection from land attacks.
Piero: time to relax and enjoy the sun and the sea; this city has a wonderful climate all year round, thanks to its latitude, the sea and above all because of Srđ the island of Lokrum which protect the city from the winds.
Angela: a curiosity: in this wonderful city some episodes of “Game of Thrones” TV series were shot (the city King’s Landing was mainly shot there).
Piero: it's time to go back now. We will walk back from a secondary street to savor the wonders of this city once again.
Angela: the tour of the city does not take a lot of time and it can be easily explored in a day, leaving us space in the afternoon for some entertainment for the kids.
Piero: let's go back to Ston now, with the beauty of the true "pearl of the Adriatic" still in our eyes.
Angela: click HERE to review all the images and watch this wonderful video that retraces our visit to Dubrovnik.
Discovering Bosnia
Piero: we’re getting ready for the last part of this challenging tour to discover the Balkans. We will dedicate it to Bosnia. Our original plan was to reach Sarajevo, but the weather conditions and the current status of the roads prevented us from doing it.
Angela: the only real stretch of highway, in fact, in Bosnia, from the sea ends in Medjugorje: the project and the construction will allow one day to arrive directly in the capital of the Balkan state; today we can only use normal roads.
Piero: we are satisfied, though. It is true that driving times are longer, it is equally true that you have the opportunity to drive through landscapes where time does not seem to have passed and where modernity still leaves room for the unspoiled beauty of nature.
Angela: the areas off the beaten path in Bosnia take us back in time and away from the human intervention typical of the rest of Europe.
Piero: Bosnia Herzegovina (this is the full name of this country) derives precisely from the union of these two territories, the one that takes its name from the Bosna river and the one that takes its name from the title of "herceg", duke, hence precisely "land of herceg".
Angela: the same mysterious charm of the territory can also be found in the history of this wonderful country. The first settlements date back to the Neolithic period even if not much information is available; we know for sure that the Illyrians settled there and in Roman times this land was part of the province of Pannonia, and then passed under the Byzantines with the disintegration of the Western Roman Empire.
Piero: even in medieval times the information remains fragmented; from the end of the Middle Ages until 1881 this territory remained under Turkish-Ottoman domination, the signs of which are still evident due to the presence of an important Muslim community. Subsequently and until the end of the First World War, Bosnia remained under the Austro-Hungarian rule and then became an integral part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, before the Second World War, and part of the Federal Socialist Republic of Yugoslavia, after the Second World War.
Angela: this land was then heavily involved in the second phase of the war in the Balkans in the 90s: after the declaration of independence in 1992, the war in fact struck with unprecedented fury in Sarajevo and in other parts of the country. Some symbolic events of the barbarism of this war, the signs of which are still perfectly visible, relate precisely to this land and that period: from the siege of Sarajevo, with the grueling struggle for the survival of the defenseless population that lasted four years, to the Srebrenica massacre. Only late, the intervention of the international community put an end to one of the most atrocious European conflicts, starting Bosnia and Herzegovina on a slow and tiring - yet unfinished - path of approaching Europe.
Piero: knowing the history of this country is essential to fully understand its nature and its charm.
Angela: so we leave very early this morning too and we cross the border between Croatia and Bosnia to the north, near Neum, the only outlet to the sea.
Piero: in the short passage on the coast where the Bosnian territory insinuates itself into the Croatian one (which divides Croatia into two parts) we cross the border twice without particular controls and problems. Moving towards the inland of Bosnia the controls are thorough and quite fussy. If you are traveling with a rented car, like us, be very careful to be authorized and above all insured to travel outside the European Union; the police often require original circulation documents instead of the copies that are usually left on rented cars. Pay attention also to your phone: the local rate must be checked, usually not cheap for international roaming; this makes internet services, therefore online maps, hardly usable. Euros are not accepted everywhere: it is good to have the necessary quantity of Bosnian Marks available, the local currency.
Medjugorje
Angela: let's take the only highway that will take us from the coast, after a 80 kilometers and 1 hour and a half drive, to our first stop: Medjugorje.
Piero: it is a small town only thirty kilometers away from the border with Croatia. It probably would have remained unknown to the world if it were not for an episode that took place in 1981, when the Virgin Mary appeared to six local children, presenting herself as Queen of Peace and giving them a message of love and hope.
Angela: the apparitions began on a hill just outside the city and continued in the homes of the visionaries and in the parish house. They have continued for days and, unique in the Marian apparitions, have continued for 30 years without interruption and up to the present day. Medjugorje quickly became a pilgrimage destination. The apparitions created havoc in the communist regime which could not stand the clamor and religious emphasis caused by the situation.
Piero: in economic terms, however, the event was a real "blessing" for the area; it is no coincidence that, as mentioned, the only real stretch of highway ends right here. The are became a tourist destination that attracts millions of visitors and faithful every year.
Angela: Medjugorje lost the traditional tranquility of a city "in the mountains" (this is the meaning of the name in Croatian) due to the inevitable sequel of miraculous healings (real or alleged), the multiplication of accommodations for pilgrims, the excessive proliferation of souvenir shops, organized tours and restaurants with set menus.
Piero: for those who believe Medjugorje is first of all the Church of Saint James where all the functions take place and, above all, the Apparition Hill which is located about two kilometers from the center at the top of which, the white statue of the Virgin marks the exact point of the apparitions of 1981. It can be reached walking in twenty minutes from the parking lot but the climb it is not very easy: the path is made of sharp rocks.
Angela: before lunch, we leave Medjugorje towards the hinterland to reach our second stop of the day: Mostar.
The bridge city
Piero: Medjugorje and Mostar are only 25 kilometers far. We got there driving just over half an hour on a road in the middle of the mountains. In the distance we glimpse the heights of the snowy Balkans that we would have had to cross to reach Sarajevo: the beauty of these landscapes certainly makes us regret not having done so, but it could have been really dangerous.
Angela: we park easily in one of the many private car parks that are nothing more than spaces inside homes dedicated to this service for tourists.
Piero: Mostar is the main historical, cultural and economic center of Herzegovina; it is crossed by the Narenta river on which there is the famous "old bridge", the Stari Most: the towers on the two banks "guardians of the bridge" are called "mostari" and hence the name of the city. In 2005, the entire area around the bridge has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.
Angela: like the capital, Mostar was also subjected to siege and bombings between 1992 and 1993; moreover, this territory was the scene of an internal conflict between Croat-Bosnians and Muslim Bosnians who faced each other for the control over the city: the symbol of this front was the division of the city into two parts, separated by the river, with the consequent destruction of the Stari Most, which collapsed under bombing on November 9th, 1993.
Piero: before entering the city center, where all the place to see are within a few hundred meters, we stop just south of the Stari Most, to observe this wonderful bridge rebuilt in all its beauty.
Angela: in this city the bridge is an important symbol: Mostar is commonly known as “the city of the bridge”.
Piero: the original one is an Ottoman bridge dating back to the sixteenth century, the construction of which is due to Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, replacing an old wooden bridge. It has the particular humpback shape, with a width of four meters and a length of thirty; reaches a maximum height over the river of 24 meters. After the collapse of 1993, the bridge was rebuilt and reopened to the public in 2004: the reconstruction took place with the contribution of the international community and under the auspices of UNESCO, using original local materials and medieval techniques. The bridge and its reconstruction represent the symbol of the end of the war and above all the reconciliation between Christians and Muslims who today live peacefully in the city.
Angela: two curiosities: Italy was the country that contributed most to the reconstruction; the jump from the bridge started to attract so many practitioners of this sport that today a competition takes place every year which sees very experienced divers participate.
Piero: we arrive at the bridge for a first visit from the river.
Angela: we walk the steps leading to the heart of the old town: Kujundžiluk.
Piero: along a wonderful cobbled pedestrian street, houses with classic oriental architectural forms follow one another, with brightly colored facades. The setting is that of the classic oriental bazaar, with craft shops where brass, precious metals, footwear, leather and fabric products are worked. It seems to be in a real souk where, even if prices are exposed, it is a must to bargain (obviously we end up buying souvenirs). There is no shortage of pashminas, costumes and accessories for belly dance, pendants against the evil eye and colorful glass lamps; there are also counterfeit clothing and accessories.
Angela: we stop for a break in one of the Arabic-style cafes. For lunch we decide to taste the delicious local dish: cevapi. It is a kind of small grilled sausage, made with beef or veal, and served with delicious bread, chopped onion and ajvar, a slightly spicy sauce made with red pepper, garlic and eggplant: a real pleasure for everyone!
Piero: at this point we are ready to cross the bridge; but first, we visit the tower where the photographic museum of the war is.
Angela: crossing the bridge we feel the sensitivity of the slope, which combined with the smooth stone pavement and the low and poorly protected parapet, still test our dizziness. However, we appreciate the view of the city with its buildings and mosques, the river and the mountains in the background that embrace the city on both sides.
Piero: after the tour of the city center we are ready to leave. We choose, almost involuntarily, a different road for the return trip. We drive near the natural reserve of Hutovo Blato.
Angela: this choice certainly does not allow us to save time and kilometers: we still have to travel a hundred kilometres in just over two hours. However, it gives us unforgettable views and landscapes.
Piero: this route will remain forever in our memory. We would have stopped more often for some photos and some shots but the streets were narrow and usually with no parapets.
Angela: I also remember a bit of anxiety, however, for the fact of not having maps or satellite navigators available and therefore we had to follow indications along the road (which were not always understandable). Add to all this the almost total absence of inhabited centers, so a bit of anxiety was certainly justified.
Piero: the unforgettable beauty and uniqueness of this territory and of all the things we had experienced throughout this day still remains! One of the most beautiful and fascinating of the whole trip, which left more images etched in my mind than any other trip ever made. It is worth reviewing all the images by clicking HERE, but above all reviewing all the wonders of Mostar in this video.
Angela: certainly the best frame of nostalgia and charm with which, upon returning home, we will reluctantly prepare our bags for the return to Italy.
Piero: in fact, the last day, starting very early in the morning, will be dedicated to returning in a single stretch: one thousand and one hundred kilometers to be covered in about twelve hours.
Angela: this emotional adventure that has seen us cross four countries ends.