Agios Nikolaos: between myth and golden light
Angela: from one city to another. We arrive in Agios Nikolaos in the late afternoon, just as the sun begins to disappear behind the hills. The air becomes softer, and the light starts to bathe everything in shades of gold and copper. It is the perfect time for a stroll.
Piero: the waterfront of Agios Nikolaos is elegant yet relaxed. Very little noise, the occasional burst of laughter, the scent of the sea, and the slow rhythm of footsteps along the promenade beside the water. From here, the view opens onto Lake Voulismeni, a body of water that seems to have been carved into the very heart of the town.
Angela: the lagoon is a real surprise. According to myth, Athena and Artemis used to bathe here. It is deep and mysterious, with its steep, dark edges, while the café terraces seem to float above the water. Seagulls circle overhead, and the reflections gradually turn shades of pink.
Piero: along the promenade, two modern bronze sculptures catch our attention. The first represents a horn. It may not be extraordinary from an artistic point of view, but its meaning is remarkably profound.
Angela: according to the myth of the birth of Zeus, the father of the gods, who was hidden in a cave, he was nursed by a goat named Amalthea. One day, while the young Zeus was playing with her, he accidentally broke one of her horns. To reward her and as a sign of gratitude, Zeus blessed the broken horn so that whoever possessed it would always find everything they desired within it.
Piero: and so the myth of the Horn of Amalthea, or the Cornucopia, was born—an eternal symbol of abundance. The sculpture represents the Horn of Amalthea and was designed and created by Nikos and Pantelis Sotiriadis in 2000.
Angela: the other sculpture is a stylised female figure, simple yet powerful, with her arms raised towards the sky and her proud gaze fixed on the horizon.
Piero: this statue is also linked to the myth of Zeus in Crete. The father of the gods fell in love with a beautiful princess named Europa and approached her disguised as a magnificent white bull while she was playing with her attendants. Enchanted by the strength and gentle appearance of the animal, the young woman began to stroke it and play with it, before eventually climbing onto its back. At that moment, Zeus, still in the form of the bull, rushed into the sea and abducted her, carrying the tearful Europa all the way to Crete.
Angela: the sculpture was designed by the Cretan film director Nikos Koundouros and, like the Horn of Amalthea, was created by Nikos and Pantelis Sotiriadis.
Piero: in the distance, on the horizon, we can make out an island: Spinalonga. And immediately our thoughts turn to its remarkable history. A small piece of land, fortified by the Venetians, but known above all for being Europe's last leper colony, which remained in operation until 1957.
Angela: it is a place we did not visit, yet it seems to hover over this entire area like a lasting memory. A small island marked by suffering and dignity, now remembered through books, documentaries, and novels. It is silent, yet deeply present.
Piero: meanwhile, the light changes once again. The lagoon reflects the sky like a liquid mirror, while the cafés and restaurants along the waterfront begin to glow with warm evening lights. We sit down for an aperitif — naturally with a glass of ouzo.
Angela: and from that terrace overlooking the water, we realise just how special Agios Nikolaos truly is. There is a natural elegance to this town: in its spotless streets, its refined boutiques, and the art galleries tucked away among the narrow lanes of the historic centre.
Piero: and then there are the town's small beaches, with their sheltered coves where the water is as clear as crystal and boats glide silently between the mooring buoys. Perfect places for an impromptu swim or simply to relax under the sun.
Angela: the lagoon, in particular, has something magical about it. In the evening, it transforms completely: the rocks grow darker, the lights from the restaurants shimmer across the water like flickering lanterns, and the circular basin seems to close like a dreaming eye. It is the hidden heart of this town.
Piero: Agios Nikolaos doesn't need to amaze you at first sight—it wins you over quietly, with elegance and discretion. And as the day fades over the lagoon, we realise we are exactly where we are meant to be, at exactly the right moment.
Angela: the many wonderful restaurants tempt you to enjoy a fresh seafood dinner by the water, while the colourful shopping streets are a pleasure to explore. Together, they make Agios Nikolaos a beautiful postcard of a different side of Crete... although, unfortunately, the prices here are different too!
