Discovering Sicily
Piero: this time we decided to play at home, telling the story of my homeland, Sicily!
Angela: geographically, Sicily has the shape of a triangle: this conformation gave it the ancient name of Trinacria, with the three vertices represented by Capo Lilibeo in the west, Capo Peloro in the northeast, and Capo Passero in the southeast.
Piero: the name Trinacria was already used by Homer in the Odyssey. Its particular shape is also found in its symbol made of a woman's face, Medusa, surrounded by three legs representing the three vertices. Since classical antiquity, the name Trinacria was replaced by Sicania (from the name of the Sicani, the first inhabitants of the island) and then by the current name, Sicily. The term probably derives from the root of the name of some fruits that ripen quickly (for example Sikè, the fig), symbolizing fertility; more likely it derives from the Italic term sica, meaning sickle, which would be confirmed by the fact that for the Romans this was a land rich in grain and therefore reapers. According to myth, the name Sicily instead comes from a beautiful princess forced to leave her homeland to reach this wonderful and luminous island, warm and full of flowers, fruits, and scents, but absolutely deserted and solitary because the entire population had been killed by a plague; she was welcomed by a young man who gave her shelter and love; from her originated a strong and gentle race: the island would thus be named after the woman who repopulated it. It has always been considered the land of the sun, beloved by the god Apollo. According to myth, Sicily was born thanks to three nymphs wandering the sea, each gathering a handful of earth from the most fertile parts of the world: finally, they chose the clearest, bluest sky in the world, and from the three points where they stopped, they threw their handful of earth into the sea, creating the island. According to another myth, the island was born from the clash between gods and giants: Enceladus, one of them, tried to escape but fell into the Mediterranean, and Athena buried him under a rock—that rock is Sicily itself.
Angela: even if we used this entire blog to tell about the beauty and wonders of this land, it might still not be enough, but let’s try anyway…
Piero: Sicily is a unique land, a wonderful blend of sun, sea, and culture that you probably won’t find in any other region in the world. A unique heritage, with an extraordinary concentration of UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Angela: not to mention its millennia-old history, shaped by the stories of the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, and Spaniards.
Piero: we will try to get to know the myths, the folk traditions, and the sayings, born from a millennia-old culture and the use of a common language, Sicilian, still alive especially in small villages. Traditions often peculiar and sometimes picturesque that created the stereotype expressed by the term Sicilianità, meaning the unique character of the island compared to neighboring regions.
Angela: a land full of contrasts and contradictions: the water of the sea against the fire of the volcano; the black of the lava stone contrasting with the ochre of the limestone of Baroque towns; the lush green of the coast and the barren yellow of the inland; but above all the magnificent hospitality and warmth of the Sicilian people, opposed to the traits for which Cicero defined Sicilians as “sharp and suspicious people, born for controversies.”
Piero: people whose character is shaped by a “terrifying insularity of spirit,” as Tomasi di Lampedusa put it, because of the violence of the landscape, the cruelty of the climate, and the “external” dominations that, in exchange for magnificent and mysterious works of art, offered only oppression and taxes; dominations by peoples with finished civilizations and cultures to which the Sicilians always submitted without ever sprouting their own autonomous one.
Angela: today Sicily and the Sicilians are the extraordinary result of this story made up of heterogeneous civilizations in terms of religion, language, and traditions.
Piero: Sicilians are above all love for this land and proud attachment to their origins; but there is also a strong sense of inescapable fate combined with rejection of change. Giovanni Verga, in “I Malavoglia,” explains it well, describing the cult of “roba” (possessions) and the high sense of family, contrasted by the punishment of bad luck for those who want to change the world and are forced to return to the starting point, their land and their roots; likewise, Tomasi di Lampedusa in “The Leopard” recounts how “in Sicily it doesn’t matter if you do harm or good; the sin that we Sicilians never forgive is simply that of ‘doing’; in the deepest love for this land, I will never stop reproaching the atavistic stubbornness of those who, according to Tomasi di Lampedusa, never want to improve simply because they believe they are perfect, hiding misery with vanity.”
Angela: yours is surely a cry of pain from a lover hurt by distance. This is shown by the love and passion with which we will discover everything that gives charm to this wonderful land. In this wonderful journey, we will be accompanied by a new character, more or less imaginary, our “adopted son,” Alberto, ready to give us his suggestions and ideas.
Piero: we will certainly talk about well-known places, trying to uncover the more particular and lesser-known aspects; but we will also search for less frequented places off the usual tourist routes.
Angela: so let’s go! Here is the program:
Milazzo;
Salina;
Tindari;
Novara di Sicilia;
Alcantara Gorges (coming soon);
Scala dei Turchi (coming soon);
Etna (coming soon);
Taormina (coming soon);
Syracuse: Ortigia and the Neapolis Archaeological Park (coming soon);
Modica (coming soon);
Catania (coming soon);
Ragusa Ibla (coming soon);
Noto;
Piazza Armerina: the Roman Villa del Casale.
Piero: follow us then!
Noto
Walking through Noto is like taking a plunge into the past, immersed in the beauty of Sicilian Baroque. Every street is a triumph of elegance, with golden stone facades that at sunset are tinged with warm orange hues. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main street, opens up between majestic churches and noble palaces, revealing at every step intricate details such as wrought-iron balconies and carved decorations. The scent of flowers and typical Sicilian sweets fills the air, while the sound of bells echoes through the streets. The grandeur of the Cathedral of San Nicolò dominates the scene, framed by a monumental staircase. Every corner of Noto offers postcard views where art and history blend into a unique experience that fascinates and enchants the visitor.
Alberto: welcome back to Sicily, everyone! Another stop in this wonderful land.
Angela: here we are! Where are we going this time?
Alberto: ready for a new marvel? I’ll take you once again to discover Sicilian Baroque, right in its capital, another gem of Sicily, declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Piero: that’s easy: Noto!
Alberto: exactly! Hop in the van and follow me then.
Here we are in Noto!
Piero: finally, we’re here. Noto, the capital of Sicilian Baroque — what’s your first impression? Is it exactly as you imagined?
Angela: absolutely yes, actually, it’s even more majestic in person! The atmosphere is unique: wide streets, monumental palaces, it feels like stepping into another era. And the light! The limestone of the buildings reflects a warm golden glow I’ve never seen anywhere else.
Piero: the light here is truly unique, perfect for my passion for photography, thanks to the white stones used to build the city, which create this enchanting effect. Did you know that the Noto we see today is actually a city rebuilt after a terrible earthquake?
Angela: yes, of course, the 1693 earthquake that destroyed much of eastern Sicily — we talked about it when we were in Ragusa Ibla. The reconstruction of Noto, though, was a true work of art: the best architects of the time were called to redesign the city, and today we have this masterpiece of Baroque urban planning.
Piero: exactly, after the earthquake, the city was moved further down the valley, where it stands today. The reconstruction project transformed Noto into one of the finest examples of Baroque cities worldwide, with buildings that create perfect harmony.
Angela: before that disaster, there was an ancient Noto, perched on the Hyblaean Mountains, about eight kilometers north on Mount Alveria. Ancient Noto dates back to the early Bronze Age (3rd millennium BC). The name comes first from Greek, then Latinized as Netum — that’s why the inhabitants are called netini.
Piero: Greeks, Romans, and Arabs made Noto increasingly important; Normans and Aragonese succeeded each other over the centuries, from around 1000 AD until the earthquake. From the Arab domination up to the 19th century, Noto held strategic importance and was the main center of the valley, later losing this role to Syracuse. Until 1865, Noto was actually the provincial capital, then transferred to Syracuse.
Our walk through Noto
Angela: one day will be enough to discover the wonder of this city. Our starting point is the Porta Reale, or Ferdinandea, the historic entrance to Noto.
Piero: it is a monument built in 1838 on the occasion of the visit of the King of the Two Sicilies, Ferdinand II of Bourbon: since then, the Porta Reale has welcomed visitors, announcing the wonder, elegance, and charm of Noto.
Angela: from here begins Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main street of Noto’s center. We immediately reach the first square, Piazza dell’Immacolata, where the church of San Francesco d'Assisi overlooks from the top of a beautiful staircase, alongside the imposing bell tower.
Piero: just a little further ahead is the beautiful church of Santa Chiara, officially called Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta: although the facade is not among the most beautiful, its interior is truly splendid. Be careful because you don’t enter from the main street, but from a side street.
Angela: now we arrive at the most awaited moment of our visit, in Piazza Municipio, which hosts the symbol and the postcard of the city: the Cathedral of San Nicolò.
Piero: we are welcomed by the splendor of its majestic staircase and the facade that seems to reach the sky. The Baroque architecture here reaches its peak, with an incredible attention to detail and monumentality that takes your breath away. The facade was restored after the dome collapsed due to an earthquake in 1996: fortunately today, thanks to careful reconstruction, we can admire it in all its splendor.
Alberto: the spectacular beauty of the church is certainly enhanced by the enormous staircase: both have surely been captured in almost every advertisement about Sicily. One of the most exciting and interesting moments for your photos is definitely the sunset, when the sun’s rays hit the stone, giving the Cathedral shades of red and orange that make it truly unique.
Angela: I’m always fascinated by how a religious building can represent so much about a community. Here you truly feel the devotion and the desire to create a symbol that lasts over time. I imagine it’s also a place for major religious events, right?
Piero: exactly. During the feast of San Corrado, the patron saint of Noto, the Cathedral becomes the beating heart of the city. The celebrations attract many faithful and tourists, creating moments of intense emotional participation. But beyond the Cathedral, Noto is full of spectacular buildings.
Angela: right in front of the Cathedral is Palazzo Ducezio, named after the important Roman leader linked to Noto’s ancient history and now the seat of the Municipality. It’s especially famous for the Hall of Mirrors, a richly decorated room with a visual effect that makes everything almost surreal. It’s also worth admiring the Cathedral from its panoramic terrace.
Piero: speaking of the panoramic terrace, it’s definitely worth visiting the Church of San Carlo al Corso, another splendid example of Baroque architecture, with balconies and terraces overlooking the square and the Cathedral, offering yet another magnificent panoramic viewpoint.
Angela: you absolutely can’t miss a visit to Via Nicolaci, which is home to a series of palaces representing the pinnacle of Baroque architecture. In particular, Palazzo Nicolaci di Villadorata is one of the most sumptuous and fascinating noble palaces in the entire city. All the Baroque palaces are adorned with balconies enriched with putti, statues of mythological figures, winged horses, lions, and mermaids, along with decorations of every kind and beautiful wrought iron railings—those of Palazzo Nicolaci are perhaps the most beautiful of all.
Piero: we’re approaching the end of the Corso and visit another gem of Noto: the Teatro Comunale, a small jewel from the 19th century. Moving from Baroque to Neoclassical, the theater is dedicated to Tina di Lorenzo, an actress from Noto. For its elegance and horseshoe shape with four tiers of boxes, it is often called the “miniature Scala of Milan.”
Angela: right opposite the theater is the last attraction we visited along Corso Vittorio Emanuele: in Piazza XVI Maggio stands the Church of San Domenico, with its splendid Baroque façade, characterized by beautiful columns and niches.
Living Noto
Angela: a place this rich must have very special traditions and festivals.
Piero: one of the most famous is definitely the Infiorata, held every year in May. The entire Via Nicolaci is transformed into a carpet of colorful flowers. Artists use flower petals to create incredible designs, often inspired by Sicilian culture or religious themes. It’s a celebration of beauty, creativity, and art.
Angela: it must be an unforgettable experience. Walking along those flower-covered streets, breathing in the scents, and admiring these temporary masterpieces must feel like a dream. But does the festival have religious roots or is it purely artistic?
Piero: it’s a bit of both. The Infiorata is linked to spring celebrations and religious devotion, but it also has a strong artistic character. Sicily is famous for blending the sacred and the profane in its festivals. Plus, the whole community takes part: it’s a way to feel united and celebrate beauty together.
Angela: you know, after walking these streets and soaking up the history, I really want to explore another part of Sicilian culture: the food! What must we absolutely try here in Noto?
Piero: here in Noto, you can’t miss the scacce, a kind of stuffed focaccia typical of this area. But there’s also pasta alla norma, made with fried eggplants, tomato sauce, and ricotta salata. A true Sicilian delight.
Angela: and what about sweets? I’ve heard Sicilian pastry is some of the best in the world.
Piero: absolutely! Noto is famous for its almond production, so you definitely have to try the almond granita, perfect on hot Sicilian days. And of course, the cannoli and cassata. But a little-known gem is the honey from Noto, used in many local recipes.
Angela: almond granita, cannoli, honey… you’re making my mouth water! I imagine these small historic pastry shops hold truly authentic flavors.
Goodbye Noto!
Piero: Noto is not just a city for tourists. Life here flows slowly and peacefully. People are welcoming and deeply connected to traditions. Walking through the streets means meeting people chatting with each other, who know and greet one another. It’s as if the city lives in a world of its own.
Angela: I’m noticing that too. There’s a kind of calm that envelops you, even right in the city center. Noto seems made for those who love to take their time and enjoy every moment. There’s no rush, no strict schedules. It’s as if the city invites you to slow down.
Piero: here you can sit in a café, enjoy a coffee or a granita, and watch life flow around you. There’s no need to hurry, because every corner of Noto deserves to be explored slowly. And this sense of community is one of the things that makes Noto so special.
Angela: that’s exactly what I was looking for on this trip. Not just to see the monuments, but to live the city, to breathe its atmosphere. And Noto is the perfect place to do that. The history, the beauty, the kindness of the people… it’s like everything combines to create a unique experience.
Alberto: I’m glad Noto impressed you so much. It’s a city that stays in your heart, and every time you come back here, you find something new to discover. That’s why I invite you to come back again.
Piero: we definitely will! Meanwhile, to discover the timeless charm of Noto, enjoy the wonder of our walk in this video.
Piazza Armerina: the Roman Villa del Casale
Scopri Villa del Casale a Piazza Armerina, un sito archeologico unico in Sicilia famoso per i suoi mosaici romani. Esplora le storie nascoste nei dettagli artistici, le stanze maestose e l’architettura di una residenza imperiale, patrimonio UNESCO. Ideale per gli amanti della storia e dell’arte!
Alberto: welcome back to Sicily, everyone! Here’s another stop in this wonderful land.
Angela: here we are! Where are we going this time?
Alberto: once again, a quick day trip to see a little gem of southeastern Sicily.
Piero: you promised me another amazing dive into history.
Alberto: exactly: I’m taking you to discover one of the symbols of the Roman domination period on the island.
Piero: I think I get it—you’re talking about Piazza Armerina and more precisely, the Villa del Casale?
Alberto: xactly! I’ll take you to the heart of Sicily, in the province of Enna, just over an hour from Catania. Follow me then.
Discovering the Villa del Casale of Piazza Armerina
Angela: look at this wonder, Piero! Just the entrance with all these columns takes your breath away. It moves me to know that this place dates back to the 4th century AD and since 1997 it has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, yet another treasure here in Sicily.
Piero: it’s true, this villa is unique. It was probably built as a luxury residence for a high-ranking official or perhaps an emperor. The abundance and quality of the mosaics leave no doubt that whoever lived here wanted to impress their guests.
Angela: the villa’s discovery is credited to Gino Vinicio Gentili, who began exploring it in 1950 following reports from local inhabitants.
Piero: between the 5th and 6th centuries, the villa was significantly repurposed, with the residential area expanded and fortified. The resulting medieval settlement, called Palatia, was destroyed between 1160 and 1161 by the Norman king William I the Bad. Between the 14th and 15th centuries, after prior devastations, a new agricultural center called Il Casale emerged, giving its name to the present archaeological site. Due to subsequent damage, floods, and landslides covering much of the complex, the ancient Roman settlement was permanently abandoned. It’s precisely this covering that preserved the villa’s splendor to reach us today.
Angela: the remains of the villa today appear as four separate nuclei: the monumental entrance with three arches and a horseshoe-shaped courtyard; the central body organized around a square peristyle courtyard with a garden and basin; the large space preceded by a peristyle surrounded by another group of rooms; and finally, the thermal complex with access from the north-west corner of the square peristyle.
Piero: the Roman Villa del Casale at Piazza Armerina, Sicily, is a sublime example of a late-imperial Roman luxury villa and symbolizes the Roman use of land as the center of large estates forming the basis of the rural economy of the Western Empire. It is one of the most luxurious of its kind and is famous for the richness and quality of its mosaics, which are its symbol even before its size; it is a precious testimony of the lifestyle of the Roman ruling class and shows the cultural influences between the Roman world and the North African area. The villa covers 48 rooms (about 3,500 square meters) adorned with mosaics in perfect condition, probably made by African masters, depicting the history of the greatest empire with scenes of daily life, heroes and deities, hunting, and games.
Let’s enter the Villa del Casale!
Angela: here we are at last! This is the Court of Honor, right? Look at the floor! The very first mosaics are fantastic and already give us a glimpse of the marvels we will discover.
Piero: exactly, it’s an area where visitors were welcomed, and the mosaics were a way to communicate the owner’s prestige. Now, we’re entering the famous "Corridor of the Great Hunt"! There are scenes with animals and mythological figures — a true homage to the world of hunting.
Angela: this is really spectacular! The mosaic here is over sixty meters long and depicts an exotic hunting scene. There are lions, tigers, elephants… even a scene with hunters carrying the captured animals onto a ship.
Piero: this corridor was the central element of the villa, used to connect all the main rooms. See, each scene has movement, almost as if the animals are struggling for their freedom. It’s incredible how the artists used the tiles to create a sense of motion and depth.
Angela: yes, you can really feel the drama of the hunt. But look, to the right there are other rooms. Shall we go see them?
Piero: of course! Let’s enter the "Room of the Ten Girls," or as everyone calls it, the "Room of the Girls in Bikinis."
Angela: this room has become famous for the figures of the young athletes. Look, it almost looks like a portrait of a sports competition: there are girls playing with a ball, lifting weights, doing exercises. Some are receiving laurel wreaths, as if they are being awarded for their performances.
Piero: exactly, it’s a scene of gymnastics, showing how important sport was in Roman culture. It’s amazing to see a 4th-century mosaic depicting such active women.
Angela: it’s impressive how they rendered the figures with so many details, from their faces to their hairstyles. They really have personality! Where do we go next?
Piero: let’s head to the "Circus Room." This is another interesting mosaic, showing a chariot race in a Roman circus. Look at the details: the horses, the drivers, the crowd… it feels like watching a race live.
Angela: it makes me think of a welcome scene, as if the owner wanted to share the excitement of these events with his guests. The sense of movement here is impressive!
Piero: exactly, the mosaics in the villa were not just decoration but also a way to tell stories and captivate those who looked at them. Shall we continue to the Peristyle?
Angela: rhe famous garden surrounded by columns! Here you really feel an atmosphere of peace. In the center, there are trees and flowers, while all around, on the floors, there are mosaics with animals and scenes of rural life.
Piero: this was a place for rest and gathering for the owners and their guests. Imagine spending time here, surrounded by artworks and nature. And at the end of the peristyle is the "Lovers’ Room."
Angela: the room with the love scene gives a truly delicate image: a man and a woman on a bed, with a cupbearer bringing drinks. It’s like a glimpse into the intimacy of the Roman era.
Piero: a surprising representation, showing how the Romans also valued the intimate and private aspects of life. Now let’s see the "Basilica," which was a large space probably used for official meetings.
Angela: here the atmosphere changes: the floor mosaic depicts allegorical figures, deities, and animals. It feels like a solemn place for reflection. Perhaps the owner also had an administrative role.
Piero: this villa tells us a lot about the social and cultural complexity of that time. Finally, there are the baths! Shall we go in?
Angela: I can’t wait. The "Frigidarium" is the first room of the baths. Here guests took a cold bath before moving to the heated rooms. The decorations are more restrained, but the mosaics represent marine creatures like fish and dolphins.
Piero: it’s incredible how each room has a different theme. The Romans left nothing to chance. Let’s move on to the "Tepidarium," the warm room. This mosaic depicts tritons and nymphs, beings connected to water. Who knows, maybe to wish for a moment of peace and tranquility.
Angela: every detail seems carefully designed to create a specific atmosphere. And look here, the "Calidarium," the hottest room. Can you imagine how advanced the heating system must have been for that time?
Piero: absolutely, the Romans were true masters at this. Imagine, they already had a hypocaust system: a raised floor under which hot air circulated to heat the room. Truly an innovation. They even used latrines as real meeting places…
Angela: what can I say, this villa is so much more than you might expect. Every room tells a story, every mosaic conveys an emotion. It’s like truly stepping into the life of that era. Just look at this montage of images from all the other rooms we haven’t mentioned.
Piero: I agree: the Villa del Casale is not just an archaeological site, but a journey through time, an immersion in the beauty, culture, and art of an incredibly fascinating historical period.
Angela: no doubt about it, it was an unforgettable visit. Let’s relive it in this short video.
Novara di Sicilia
Alberto: Here I am again, everyone! Let’s continue our tour discovering Sicily…
Angela: Where are you taking us this time?
Piero: So far, you’ve been flawless: easy trips for the family and very interesting discoveries.
Angela: Not to mention the main ingredient: the sea!
Alberto: So, I’d say we keep going on this path, quite literally. Like with Tindari, we stay close to our base in Milazzo; get your legendary van ready and let’s go for the day! We’ll move just 45 kilometers towards Palermo and inland: our destination is Novara di Sicilia!
Piero: I’ve heard about it because it’s listed among the most beautiful villages in Italy, I like it!
Angela: But you said inland, so does that mean no sea today?
Alberto: Calm down! The village is wonderful, but it won’t take up the whole day: we’ll still have time for a fantastic surprise I won’t reveal just yet.
Piero: The usual mysterious guy… Everyone on board then! Let’s go!
Welcome to Nuè!
Alberto: we have just under an hour of travel to reach our destination; once again we take the A20 highway and exit at Falcone; from there, we head inland following the first stretch of state road 185 until we reach Nuè.
Piero: that’s what the locals call this village; here they speak a strange dialect, Gallo-Italic. Even though we are in the heart of the Mediterranean, the inhabitants of Novara descend from soldiers and settlers who, coming from northern Italy and southern France during the Norman conquest of Sicily, settled in this area. It’s really curious to listen to the local speech, which is a mix of Sicilian and Genoese with Padanian accents: south and north fused not only in the name — sharing it with the Piedmont city Novara (with which it has nothing to do) — but especially in the words. The name probably derives from the earlier Greek and then Roman settlement called Noa, which under the Arabs became Nouah: both ancient names testify to the beauty and fertility of the territory.
Alberto: the first traces of human settlement date back to the Mesolithic, with dwellings carved inside Sperlinga Rock and finds in Contrada Casalini. Clearly, these dwellings have little to do with the village that developed later, but stone remains the guiding thread of Novara’s development: the inhabitants specialized in stoneworking, passing the craft down from father to son, and many houses and constructions are made from the local stone, sandstone. Pliny, in Roman times, mentioned Noa in his writings and called its inhabitants noeni. In the 9th century, the Berbers built a new castle replacing the one used throughout the Byzantine period. In the 11th century, a colony of Lombards, Catholics with the Latin rite, probably settled where the current village stands; it returned to Christian rule and was called Nucaria. In 1171, the first Cistercian abbey in Sicily, Santa Maria Nucaria, was founded by Saint Ugo under King Roger II. Then came the periods of Norman and later Aragonese domination. The village reached its peak development in the 17th century, which shaped the building fabric still visible today.
Piero: the village was damaged by the Allied bombings in August 1943 during World War II. It has been gradually rebuilt and today is one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
Angela: today Novara is a gem located at the border between the Peloritani and Nebrodi mountains, on the slopes of the mountains, in a charming natural setting made of woods beyond which dominates the imposing rock spur, Rocca Salvatesta, reaching 1,340 meters in height; on the other side, the view is enriched by the sea, the Aeolian Islands, and the Tindari promontory, which can be admired from above.
Alberto: the village is made up of small houses built disorderly one on top of another, a labyrinth of alleys and narrow streets sometimes embellished with arches; but above all, it is full of elegant palaces with decorated facades and sumptuous churches. All this, carefully maintained and preserved, gives Novara its typical medieval appearance. The streets are paved with cobblestones. As mentioned, sandstone dominates both civil and religious buildings; some constructions also feature architectural elements made of cipollino, another local reddish stone.
Piero: arriving from the state road, our walk begins on Via Duomo. We reach one of the most interesting places of our visit, the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. It is the largest and most important church in the village. It dates back to the 16th century and is obviously built in sandstone; the interior is extraordinarily rich, with three naves and twelve altars decorated with beautiful frescoes and statues. From here, almost all the processions start and end, which take place numerous times during the year: it begins with Saint Anthony Abbot on January 17th, when animals are blessed and "u focu" (the fire) is lit, believed to heal herpes; then the Easter period follows, with very ancient rites that are always repeated in the same way over time, maintaining their charm; of course, the living nativity scene is a must during the Christmas period. But the central moment of the religious life of the community is the night procession of the Assumption on August 15th: the entire village is decorated and filled with lights; the ancient vara (processional float) is prepared with jewels donated by the faithful, and dozens of candles are lit at its base; then the procession moves through the streets of Novara in a fascinating nighttime setting!
Alberto: the religious devotion has significantly shaped the urban development of Novara. At every corner, there are churches, some truly very beautiful: from the oldest and smallest, San Francesco Church, dating back to the Middle Ages, to the Baroque churches of Annunziata and Sant’Ugo, ending with San Giorgio, San Nicolò in the heart of the town, and Sant’Antonio Abate.
Angela: the whole town unfolds through the wonderful typical medieval alleys: walking through them is truly fascinating. Besides the many churches, there are just as many buildings worth photographing: Villa Salvo in the San Francesco district; the Palazzo Stancanelli on the main square; Casa Fontana near the Cathedral; Palazzo Salvo Risicato; the Town Hall (Palazzo del Comune); and the 19th-century Teatro Comunale.
Piero: the highest point of the village is occupied by the ruins of the Saracen Castle. Little remains of the ancient structure: only one tower out of the original four that probably made up the original construction, lost over time due to neglect as well as the earthquakes and landslides that affected the cliff on which it was built. The land where the castle once stood is now privately owned and hosts a restaurant.
Alberto: this certainly hasn’t helped over time in the preservation of this symbol of ancient Novara; however, it is still definitely worth visiting for the splendid panorama enjoyed from here over the entire village, the valley, Tindari, the sea, and the Aeolian Islands.
Rocca Salvatesta
Piero: just before lunch, we leave the village to head towards the Rocca Novara that we had seen dominating the town.
Angela: a little over ten minutes by car and we reach the starting point of this hike towards what the locals call Rocca Salvatesta.
Piero: along with its natural beauty, this place is tied to an ancient legend: according to tradition, an invaluable treasure is hidden here; to find it, one must overcome a series of trials — and it must be a woman who does it!
Alberto: exactly: within twenty-four hours, she must collect firewood from seven different forests and weave a linen cloth on a loom; then she must gather grain to grind into flour at the mill, use the firewood to bake bread, and once ready, wrap the bread in the cloth she just wove. The trial ends by eating the bread at the foot of the Rocca; at midnight, a knight, according to tradition, will open the treasure doors and hand over jars filled with gold to the lucky one.
Piero: the Rocca is the highest point of the Peloritani Mountains at 1340 meters and because of its shape, it is also known as the Matterhorn of Sicily. The hike to the summit takes about three hours and is not easy, especially in summer and even more so with children. The walk starts from a picnic area located right on the Sella Mandrazzi road that connects Novara to Francavilla di Sicilia.
Alberto: the first stretch is steep but short, and can be handled without difficulty. Once we reach the plateau, we decide to stop and admire the stunning view of the Bay of Tindari on one side, and enjoy a different perspective of the Rocca, flanked by the Racco del Leone.
Piero: this is probably the area where the first settlement historically took place. After breathing in some fresh air and enjoying the breathtaking view, we head back to the village for lunch.
Angela: a quick lunch featuring local specialties, and among them we can’t miss a taste of Novara di Sicilia’s signature product: Maiorchino cheese.
Alberto: it’s a delicious cheese, produced exclusively here, and its name probably comes from the sheep’s diet, which includes leftovers from a local variety of wheat called Maiorca. It’s made mostly from sheep’s milk, with a good amount of goat’s milk added in.
Piero: this cheese even has a festival dedicated to it, where locals compete by rolling the large wheels of Maiorchino through the narrow village streets. The final showdown takes place during Carnival time. Both the cheese and the festival follow very ancient rules and traditions.
The beach of Mongiove
Alberto: I can see the kids are tired now, and I had promised them a surprise!
Angela: that’s right! The sea, isn’t it?
Alberto: exactly! I’m taking you to a special beach — Mongiove Beach. It’s about thirty kilometers away, so forty-five minutes by car, and we’ll be there… let’s hope we find a parking spot right away!
Piero: the beach is part of the Oriented Nature Reserve of the Marinello Lakes. The first stretch is quite wide and ends on the right with a fascinating promontory. As is often the case in this part of Sicily, the fine sand gradually gives way to pebbles as you get closer to the shoreline; and as you move toward the promontory, the rocks become more prominent.
Angela: overall, it’s a beautiful beach and the sea is crystal clear, although it gets deep quite quickly. It’s the perfect place to spend an afternoon, although it can get crowded on weekends and during July and August.
Piero: what makes it special is that, with a short swim — or, if you're lucky, during low tide and when the sea is calm — you can pass around the promontory and reach the many sea caves and small coves that follow one another along this stretch of coastline, all the way to the Tindari headland.
Alberto: the short video I shot with the drone captures its beauty and uniqueness!
Angela: this wonderful day has come to an end! We’re all very tired—time to head back home. A bit of rest, and we’ll be ready for a new adventure!
Trip to Tindari
Piero: hi Alberto, here we are again!
Alberto: let’s continue our journey to discover Sicily…
Angela: wonderful! Where are we going this time?
Alberto: once again, we’re not going far from our base in Milazzo, and you can hop back into your legendary van! We’re heading just 35 kilometers towards Palermo—half an hour’s drive and we’re ready to start our trip to Tindari…
Piero: it’s one of the places along the Tyrrhenian coast of the province of Messina that fascinates me the most: art, culture, myth, history, and spirituality all blended into one unique destination!
Angela: and all of it with a stunning seaside view in the background!
Alberto: I’d say it’s more than just a background: in the morning, I’ll take you to visit Tindari, and in the afternoon we’ll enjoy the beautiful beach and sea we’ll have admired from above. I’m sure you’ll love it—it’s such a beautiful place that Camilleri took inspiration from it for an episode of Inspector Montalbano. And that’s exactly why we’re naming this day in his honor.
Piero: then let’s go!
Tindari
Alberto: as I said, our day trip starts with a half-hour drive: we take the A20 motorway and exit at Falcone. From there, following the simple signs, we begin our climb toward Tindari.
Piero: this small hamlet of the municipality of Patti is located on top of the homonymous promontory, perched above the sea: it rises to about 300 meters above sea level.
Alberto: Tindari has ancient and noble origins: it was founded in 396 BC by order of Dionysius, by a colony of Syracusan mercenaries. They called it Tyndaris, the original Greek name, in honor of Tyndareus, then king of Sparta and, according to myth, putative father of the famous Helen of Troy and the Dioscuri, Castor and Pollux. During the First Punic War, it served as a Carthaginian naval base, and its waters were the site of the Battle of Tyndaris in 257 BC, in which the Roman fleet defeated the Carthaginians. Along with Syracuse, in 56 BC, it was conquered by the Romans who, under Augustus, transformed it into one of the five Sicilian colonies, the Colonia Augusta Tyndaritanorum. From this period comes Cicero’s famous quote, calling Tindari a "most noble city" (nobilissima civitas). Piero: but between the 1st and 4th century AD, a period of decline began, due first to a catastrophic landslide and then to two devastating earthquakes that almost completely destroyed the city. It became a bishopric in the 6th century and was conquered by the Byzantines; in 836, it came under Arab rule, who nearly razed it to the ground.
Angela: only the sanctuary, the ruins of the ancient city, and the Greek theater survived these disasters.
Alberto: and those are precisely the destinations of our morning!
Piero: if I’m not mistaken, it used to be possible to drive right up to the square in front of the church.
Alberto: exactly, but that’s no longer the case: to reduce car traffic—which used to be parked wildly along the final stretch of the road—there’s now a large paid parking lot a few kilometers from the top. From there, you can go up using a convenient shuttle bus (included in the parking fee), or on foot.
Angela: walking up doesn’t sound too great to me; the distance isn’t huge, but it’s all uphill, and there’s still a steep final stretch of hairpin turns up to the sanctuary. In the heat of certain times of the year, it’s definitely not recommended—and we’ll consider this part more than enough exercise.
Piero: we finally make it to the top, and the first thing we do is lean over the square’s railing to admire the breathtaking view of the strip of land and sea of Tindari!
The Sanctuary of Tindari
Alberto: now we head to visit the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Tindari, which has been designated a Basilica since 2018. It stands at the easternmost tip of the promontory, where the ancient acropolis once rose. The original sanctuary was built on its ruins, a small church dedicated to the statue of the Black Madonna. This statue, carved from cedar wood and of uncertain date, depicts the Madonna wearing a crown and holding the Child in her arms. Her face, elongated and serene, bears the unmistakable traits typical of Eastern and African iconography—unlike Western depictions—yet the proportions remain graceful and aesthetically harmonious. At the base of the statue, you’ll find the inscription from the Song of Songs: “Nigra sum sed formosa”, meaning “I am black but beautiful.”
Piero: it's unclear whether the statue arrived in Tindari as a result of a shipwreck or—more likely—during an attempt by the faithful to save it from the iconoclastic fury of the 8th century. According to tradition, sailors brought it ashore beneath the promontory of Tindari and left it behind to lighten their heavy load before setting sail again. Today, the Madonna is venerated during a festival held on September 7th.
Angela: the present-day Basilica is the result of an expansion completed with its consecration in 1979. Of course, you can visit the new church, but also the old one, which is located within the sanctuary complex. Even more, you can explore the rooms of the sanctuary itself—one of them, in particular, has a window that offers a breathtaking view of the promontory below and the entire bay. Definitely not to be missed!
Piero: before heading to the archaeological site, it’s definitely worth tasting a delicious granita at one of the bars in the square—mulberry and coffee are my favorite flavors!
Alberto: let’s now walk down the only road that leads from the sanctuary to the archaeological area. The first part is lined with small shops and stalls selling all kinds of souvenirs and roasted dried fruit—known in Sicilian dialect as “a càlia.”
The archaeological area of Tindari
Piero: as we get closer to the archaeological site, we’re greeted by stretches of the ancient city walls, still visible in some places.
Alberto: the entire area is still quite well preserved, likely due to the limited interest in reusing the sandstone with which the structures were built. Excavations are relatively recent: the first began in 1839, but the most significant ones date back to the 1960s and have only been completed in recent years. Today, we can admire a Roman insula with part of the main road—the decumanus—the basilica, and above all, the ancient Greek theatre.
Piero: the insula is essentially an entire Roman neighborhood, where the bases of the houses and some mosaics are still well preserved. You can clearly identify several tabernae and a patrician villa complete with baths. The basilica is a two-story structure, probably dating from the 4th century, with a central passage beneath a barrel vault—it may have been a gymnasium. And then there's the theatre: built against the side of a hill, it has a diameter of over 60 meters. It dates back to the city’s foundation period but was later renovated in Roman times with the addition of a portico and the reconstruction of the scaenae frons, of which only the foundations and one arch remain—modifications that made it suitable for games. Thanks to its splendid position overlooking the sea, it has hosted an important festival of music, dance, and theatre since 2001, now known as the Festival of the Two Seas. Some artifacts from the site are displayed in a small on-site museum, which can be visited together with the archaeological area.
Angela: I have to say that the wonder of this place deserves much more attention: little maintenance and care, despite the entrance fee. A true gem left to neglect! Trash and abandoned barriers everywhere, but worst of all, mosaics buried under dust and weeds—a real shame!
Alberto: I'm really sorry about your disappointment, but we still have an afternoon ahead in another very beautiful place. Let's watch it again in this video:
Piero: we’ve seen the sea and the promontory from above; now it’s time to go down there.
Alberto: we return to the parking lot and head to Marinello, aiming to reach the sandbar right under the Tindari promontory. Here too, there are two options: a walk on the beach under the sun or we can take the shuttle service that, by boat, in just a few minutes and for a small fee, takes us directly there.
Angela: we clearly choose the second option to avoid the afternoon heat and the long walk. Traveling with children, even the short boat ride is an experience in itself. Of course, if you want to fully live the adventure, you can take the trail called Coda di Volpe (Fox’s Tail) for its particular shape, which leads from ancient Tindari down to the marine reserve.
The Tindari Lagoon
Alberto: the Tindari Lagoon, with Marinello Beach, forms a stunning stretch of sea and is today a protected nature reserve due to the extraordinary presence of characteristic lacustrine water basins (the so-called “Marinello ponds”) alongside marine sands. Here again, myth blends with the beauty of the place: according to legend, the beach was miraculously formed after a little girl fell from the terrace of the Sanctuary and was later found safe on the beach. The girl’s mother, having witnessed the miracle, began to believe in the miraculous nature of the Madonna statue, which she had doubted due to its dark skin. Another legend adding further charm to this place concerns the Grotta di Donna Villa, located in the rock cliff above: the cave was said to be inhabited by a sorceress, who lured sailors with her singing and then devoured them. When someone gave up due to the difficulty reaching the entrance, the sorceress vented her anger by digging her fingers into the wall; this is said to be the reason for the many small holes in the rock.
Piero: the shape of the beach constantly changes depending on the tides; however, from above, the strip of land seems to have the shape of a woman embracing a child.
Angela: the sea and the place are enchanting and generally not crowded even in summer. The water is crystal clear and the seabed is sandy and varies in depth depending on the location: on one side the sea is shallower and protected by the sandbar, while on the other side it is deeper and exposed. Clearly, this stretch of beach is not equipped with facilities, so you need to be well prepared.
Piero: we spent another wonderful day in this splendid land, discovering a place that perfectly embodies the spirit of our travels, where beauty and relaxation combine with history and culture!
Alberto: as you are learning, there are many places in Sicily that share these characteristics: we just need to continue our patient exploration!
Angela: we can’t wait!
One night in Salina (Aeolian Islands)
Perhaps the most beautiful of the Aeolian Islands: a paradise immersed in nature and surrounded by crystal-clear waters. Its poetic charm also attracted Massimo Troisi, who filmed some scenes of “Il Postino” here. The typical Aeolian houses, the narrow streets, the scents, and the rich food and wine heritage make anyone who spends time here think: “I’ll leave everything behind and move to Salina!”
Discovering the greenest Aeolian Island
Piero: Hi Alberto, here we are again!
Alberto: of course, I promised you I would take you with me around Sicily ...
Angela: how nice! Where do we go this time?
Alberto: I'll give you a clue ... we were in Milazzo and we will not go far from there. However, you won't be able to use your legendary van. You will need to take the hydrofoil!
Piero: it's easy then, we’re going to one of the wonderful islands of the Aeolian archipelago that you can see from Milazzo.
Angela: I only know a few of them.
Alberto: the Aeolian Islands are seven: Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli, Alicudi and Filicudi.
Piero: and which one will you tell us about?
Angela: come on, Alberto don't leave us on our toes. At least give us another clue.
Alberto: I can only tell you that this island has the tallest mountain of all the Aeolian Islands, about 962 meters, and I reached the top of it walking.
Piero: Let me think about it ... I'd say Stromboli!
Alberto: you didn't go very far. Stromboli is 924 meters high and it has the second tallest mountain (an active volcano, but I will talk about it some other time).
Angela: so… Salina!
Alberto: exactly. Pack comfortable shoes, swimwear, hats and sunscreen. The appointment is at the port of Milazzo to take the hydrofoil that will take us to Salina!
Piero: the ride from Milazzo to Salina takes about an hour and a half and the cost of the hydrofoil is not exactly cheap even if it is worth it for the destination. There is also a ferry boat, but it is very slow.
Alberto: Salina is an ancient volcanic island. The peculiarity is to have two mountains, also ancient volcanoes, one next to the other: Mount Fossa delle Felci, the tallest in the archipelago, and Mount dei Porri. From these two extinct volcanoes, seen from the north-east, derives its ancient ancient Greek name Didỳmē (from the Greek dìdymos, "twin"). The current name derives from a small lake in the village of Lingua, from which salt was extracted.
Visiting Salina main town: Santa Marina Salina
Angela: here we are then! What is the name of this town?
Alberto: we dock in Santa Marina Salina. There are two small ports in Salina: one, which is also the main one, it is in Santa Marina; the other one is located in Rinella, the village with black sand.
Angela: is the island big?
Alberto: well, bear in mind that in less than a couple of hours by car you can tour all the main villages of the island. It is not very big but we are on the second largest island of the archipelago. It has only 2,300 inhabitants.
Piero: I imagine that renting a car is essential.
Alberto: not necessarily. The first time I was there, I rented a villa with friends in Santa Marina and, to visit the other places, we moved by bus or taxi. Of course, for those who have kids and want to go around, I definitely recommend renting a car.
Angela: so I guess it's the first thing to do: how do you suggest to proceed?
Alberto: I must say that, as in many typically summer tourist places, renting a car is a bit of an adventure. You have to be careful with prices, check the condition of the car well to avoid surprises upon delivery ... it is certainly better to plan everything before arriving on the island to avoid waiting or worse, not finding availability.
Piero: thanks for the advice. What do you do in Santa Marina?
Alberto: during summer it is very active. There are events every evening, delicious restaurants, ice cream shops, bars, souvenirs shops ...
Angela: do you recommend any restaurants?
Alberto: I perfectly remember the Trattoria Cucinotta, which is located in the main street where there are all the shops. Apart from the location, with its wonderful veranda overlooking the sea and the island of Lipari, you should try the homemade squid ragù. Delicious.
Angela: yum! Marked on the list ...
Piero: what else would you recommend us to do?
Alberto: in the western part of the town, in a place called Serro dell’Acqua, it is possible to walk a path that leads, through a vegetation of olive trees and fruit trees, to the Saracen Caves.
Angela: what is that?
Alberto: they are caves dug into the tuff and hidden by dense vegetation, used as a refuge to escape the atrocious barbarity committed by the Saracens around 650 AD. They are made up of several communicating rooms inside which the cross engravings and numerous votive signs are still visible today.
Piero: very interesting! In Salina the Malvasia sweet wine is produced. What do you tell me?
Alberto: Salina is quite a fertile island, you cannot avoid to admire the vineyards. The Malvasia, as you mentioned is a sweet wine with a delicious flavour. It is obtained by drying and subsequently pressing the grapes produced by local vineyards. This is only the main of the other wines produced on the island: even if not from native vines, excellent white and red wines, both still and sparkling, are also produced. Because the island, as mentioned, is very fertile, there are also other crops. The other typical product of the island is the caper obtained from the flower of the plant of the same name: in Salina a particular, much larger caper is produced, the "cucunci".
Piero: wow! Where are you taking us now?
Alberto: we move to Lingua, a small village, which is about 10 minutes away by car. It is probably the place I have visited most often.
Angela: I guess it is because there is something good to eat.
Alberto: you know me ... in Lingua there is "Da Alfredo". I put it in my top 5 of Sicilian bars. Believe me, I've tried many bars ...
Piero: but it's just a bar!
Alberto: for us Sicilians the bar is part of the culture, it is a meeting place where of course we drink coffee but above all we eat his majesty the granita!
Angela: now I understand.
Alberto: and that's not all, at Alfredo's you must also try the typical dish for lunch or dinner: “u pani cunzatu”, which is a stuffed bread. It is a reinterpretation of an ancient recipe of fishermen who in the evening prepared a salad with the available ingredients - oil, capers, olives and basil - accompanied with toasted bread. Mr. Alfredo, with his sons, today prepare a loaf of homemade bread, toast it and dress it in all possible and imaginable ways. Clearly the advice is to try it with the typical local products.
Piero: it sounds like a tasteful dish!
Alberto: despite its extreme simplicity, it absolutely is. Probably what makes you appreciate it more is also the context of the restaurant and the square in front of it overlooking the sea. A practical tip: if you stop for lunch and don't want to weigh yourself down too much, just order half of it.
Angela: thanks. Is there any lighthouse on the island? You know how much I like them ...
Alberto: well, there is one a few hundred meters from the bar.
Off to Pollara: Troisi’s “The Postman” village
Piero: where are you taking us now?
Alberto: let's go to the other side of the island; you probably have already heard of it because of the cult Italian masterpiece movie “The Postman”.
Piero: it's true! The Pollara House is the only place, beyond Procida, where Massimo Troisi shot his last movie in 1994.
Alberto: exactly, but the place I would like to show you is the Pollara Beach. The name is misleading, there is no sand but large stones among the rocks. The space is a bit small, but this is what makes it unique and intimate, set within an amphitheater-shaped cliff. To get there you have to take a steep but beautiful path. On the way back, maybe we will struggle a little, but it will be worth it.
Angela: not a smart choice if you have kids ...
Alberto: it's not comfortable to spend the whole day there, but it's absolutely worth a visit.
Hiking on Monte Fossa delle Felci
Piero: you told us that you walked to the top of the Salina mountain?
Alberto: that's right. The path to the top of Monte Fossa delle Felci is a real adventure. Clearly, this cannot be done by organizing a day trip to the island. It is necessary to stay at least one night and that's exactly what we did: we woke up at 3am and we left around 4am to get to the top in time to see the sunrise and of course to avoid walking for several hours under the summer heat.
Angela: what did you do then?
Alberto: once in the car, we drove towards the valley from which the walk begins. It is still dark.
Piero: I hope you brought some torches ...
Alberto: no, but luckily we had the flashes of our phones. Try to visualize walking in the the woods and it is completely dark.
Angela: I imagine that for the hikers, this is not a big problem… they are more organized, understand what surrounds them and have the right tools.
Alberto: right! But we’re not hikers and we didn't have everything we needed ...
Piero: so how did you go on?
Alberto: we kept walking and every now and then we stopped to ask ourselves if we wanted to continue or go back. Every noise we heard in the trees, the recurring thought was "who made me do it?". In the end, however, pride prevailed: we had to succeed!
Angela: how did the walk go?
Alberto: I must tell you that, even if at times tiring, it was fantastic. The other thing that unfortunately we had not calculated was the humidity: in addition to making us sweat a lot, the morning mist, in fact, at the top, prevented us from seeing the view. However, it was a wonderful experience that I would absolutely do again.
Piero: how long did it take to reach the top?
Alberto: about 2 and a half hours for the ascent and an hour and a half for the descent. I still remember that while we were returning to the valley, we met the first hikers who asked us why we were going back. Every time we had to explain that we had left very early in the morning, that we had reached the top and that we were going to enjoy a nice granita and a swim in the sea.
Piero: are you already organizing other hikes?
Alberto: I would love to hike Stromboli … I hope to do that this summer.
Angela: wonderful! We can't wait to visit you in Sicily.
Rinella: the black sand village
Piero: you haven't told us everything yet: there's still Rinella!
Alberto: exactly. Rinella is famous, as I said, for its black sand beach, a destination especially for families and children who want to enjoy an easy access to the sea.
Angela: exactly what we need!
Alberto: that's right. The beach is located right in front of the seaside village and this gives it a unique physiognomy. Around the beach there are also numerous bars and restaurants that allow you to taste the various delicacies of the island.
Piero: it is a wonderful island. There are other six others ... how many have you visited?
Alberto: I set foot, for a short time, on all the islands except Stromboli. That’s the reason why I want to organize a nice excursion there.
Angela: with your drone I guess ...
Piero: not only! The DSLR, the lenses, the camera… an entire backpack dedicated to our great passion. Is that true Alberto?
Alberto: I usually travel a little lighter than you, but the passion is the same. Piero, when you have time we should discuss our backpacks and what we usually put inside them for our travels!
Piero: great idea!
Angela: oh gosh… you think about the backpacks, I think about organizing the next trip!
Alberto: the next story, then.
Piero: bye Alberto, see you next time!
Alberto: take a look at all the images, click HERE and watch this wonderful video!
Milazzo
Piero: Alberto, what a pleasure seeing you again!
Alberto: hi guys, I have an idea that I'd like to share with you.
Angela: sure, tell us everything.
Alberto: I would like to tell you a little bit more about my land, Sicily. What do you think? I could start with the Tyrrhenian coast overlooking the Aeolian Islands, and then bring you with me around this beautiful island.
Angela: it's a great idea! We can't wait to learn a little more and see the beautiful photos you took.
Alberto: we will start from Milazzo then: if we want to talk about the Aeolian Islands we can only start from there! Click HERE to see all the images!
Piero: it is a very ancient city founded by the Ancient Greeks with the name of Mylae (hence the name of the nearby river Mela).
Angela: the Ancient Greeks wanted to exploit its fertile plain, its strategic position and above all its natural harbor.
Piero: under the Roman empire domination, an important battle was fought during the first Punic War and then another decisive battle in the clash between Octavian and Pompey.
Alberto: over time its importance has remained intact and so with the Normans and Spanish dominations.
Angela: above all you can meet Milazzo in Italy history books because of a battle fought between the Bourbons troops and those of Garibaldi: this is an important battle, which laid the foundations for the Italian unification happened in 1861.
Piero: as many times happen, myths are intertwined with history: the waters in front of Milazzo are those of Homer’s Odyssey; Ulysses arrives there, driven by curiosity, to reach the cave of the most terrible of the Cyclops, Polyphemus. Many places, especially in Sicily, compete for the honour of preserving the home of the Cyclops met by Ulysses: clearly it is not easy to understand which place Homer was inspired by in his poem. However, the Cave of Polyphemus in Milazzo is located under the fortress of the castle. It is a natural cave that was used as a weapons depot, where saltpetre powder was extracted and stored for the manufacture of gunpowder.
Angela: what a story! I'd love to visit it.
Alberto: it is not possible, I’m afraid. First of all because it is private property and it is currently closed and not open to visitors. I think it hasn't been open since the 70s, when it became a reception room where weddings and ceremonies were held.
Piero: what a pity. Who knows what it was like inside ...
Alberto: I know that there are a number of natural rooms. Others were excavated in medieval times. There were also a stage for musical performances and a dance floor.
Angela: I'm a little sorry for Polyphemus, he is now left all alone ...
Piero: let's hope that someone will intervene soon!
Alberto: history and myth that make this place even more fascinating!
Piero: it all began in the VIII century BC with a small settlement right where you now see the ruins of a castle.
Angela: very nice! Is it open to the public?
Alberto: sure! Just imagine, it is the largest fortified citadel in Sicily. It is wonderful from the outside and stunning from the inside. Outside, in the charming old village, there are also some places that are worth spending a few hours in.
Angela: I think I read that a sea museum has also been opened a few years ago inside the castle ….
Alberto: you do know a lot of things! Yes, the MuMa. An experience that I truly recommend to everyone in order to understand how important it is to protect nature and the sea.
Piero: religion obviously goes hand in hand with history and myth.
Alberto: it's true! In 1221, a Portuguese missionary was traveling on a ship from Africa directed to Lisbon; due to a violent storm, the boat was diverted to Capo Milazzo and that missionary was sheltered for a few days in a cave: he was St. Anthony of Padua and the point where the cave is has become an enchanting church.
Piero: it is an important destination for pilgrims, especially on June 13th, the day on which the saint is celebrated. It was tradition to walk to get there facing the complicated climb to Capo Milazzo.
Alberto: how wonderful! The view from the balcony is beautiful and you can admire the whole promontory of Capo Milazzo, with Monte Trino, the bay and the Nebrodi mountains in the background.
Angela: what about the city?
Alberto: there is a very beautiful promenade along the eastern side: from there you can admire the entire gulf. Especially in the evening it is a meeting point for the people living in the area. There are several restaurants, bars and an exceptional artisanal ice-cream shop: it's called Sikè (visit his page: facebook.com/sikegelato). The master ice-cream maker is a really cool guy as well as one of the most renowned ice-cream makers in Italy!
Angela: anyway Alberto, you are guiding us through a beautiful seaside town, in Sicily and you still haven't told us where we can go for a nice swim in the sea!
Piero: you know that Alberto has to give us first the historical background and bla bla bla ...
Alberto: how nice! There are certainly many, but my favourites are three places. The first and most famous is the Baia del Tono or 'Ngonia del Tono. While the seafront promenade I mentioned earlier is to the East, the Tono is to the West. Words cannot be enough to describe this place, see for yourself from the photos.
Angela: how wonderful! I hope there are also some bathhouses, you know we are always traveling with children.
Alberto: of course, even if most of the beach is public, there are several bathhouses with some services available. They are all very nice, but in particular the Stone Beach and the Horizon are the most popular. If, on the other hand, you are looking for a restaurant with an hotel in the area, I would definitely bet on the “Ngonia Bay”.
Angela: I see some trails in the photos, can we walk?
Alberto: yes, of course! You can walk on the beach and then there is a trail along the promontory. One of the most characteristic walk trails is called "N’fennu e Paradisu", which means Hell and Heaven. It starts right from the West coast, near the Baia del Tono, and after several stairs you arrive at a point with a beautiful view of Milazzo and the bay. From there, it starts a trail that winds along the cliffs overlooking the sea until you reach the top of Trino Mount, from which you can enjoy a fantastic view over Capo Milazzo.
Piero: the other two places to go to the beach are still missing!
Alberto: are you in a hurry? The second place is located at the very end of the Milazzo promontory, Pool of Venus or Piscine di Venere. To get there you have to go first to Capo Milazzo, necessarily by car, then there is a trail. You will walk through an olive grove, admire a lighthouse and then you will down the stairs that will lead you to these natural pools.
Piero: the walk to reach the sea is an experience that it is worth doing it in every season of the year.
Angela: I am sure it would be nice spending the holidays in Milazzo ...
Alberto: yes, I would say. I know how much you like to eat and enjoy a beautiful view, so you will be definitely interested to know that Capo Milazzo is also a place full of night life. There are several restaurants and lounge bars. Maybe we'll have a lunch at the “Bellavista restaurant”.
Angela: why not! You are organizing the tour, I guess you will also pay for it …
Alberto: I'm just your guide ...
Piero: forget it, Alberto. Please, tell us what is the third and last place to go to the beach.
Alberto: it is a little bit off the beaten path, therefore it is not always crowded: you have to stop along the road that leads to Capo di Milazzo. It can be reached walking down a few stairs in the middle of the green. I'll show you some photos, maybe next summer I'll be able to take you there myself ...
Angela: that would be amazing. You’re in Sicily now, correct?
Alberto: right, I'm at your disposal.
Piero: thanks Alberto and… don't worry, we will buy you lunches and dinners.
Angela: I used to think Milazzo only as a port for the Aeolian Islands, thanks to you I now discovered that it is a land of sea, culture and history!
Piero: to summarize everything we just said, let’s watch this short video!