Discovering Sicily
Piero: this time we decided to play at home, telling the story of my homeland, Sicily!
Angela: geographically, Sicily has the shape of a triangle: this conformation gave it the ancient name of Trinacria, with the three vertices represented by Capo Lilibeo in the west, Capo Peloro in the northeast, and Capo Passero in the southeast.
Piero: the name Trinacria was already used by Homer in the Odyssey. Its particular shape is also found in its symbol made of a woman's face, Medusa, surrounded by three legs representing the three vertices. Since classical antiquity, the name Trinacria was replaced by Sicania (from the name of the Sicani, the first inhabitants of the island) and then by the current name, Sicily. The term probably derives from the root of the name of some fruits that ripen quickly (for example Sikè, the fig), symbolizing fertility; more likely it derives from the Italic term sica, meaning sickle, which would be confirmed by the fact that for the Romans this was a land rich in grain and therefore reapers. According to myth, the name Sicily instead comes from a beautiful princess forced to leave her homeland to reach this wonderful and luminous island, warm and full of flowers, fruits, and scents, but absolutely deserted and solitary because the entire population had been killed by a plague; she was welcomed by a young man who gave her shelter and love; from her originated a strong and gentle race: the island would thus be named after the woman who repopulated it. It has always been considered the land of the sun, beloved by the god Apollo. According to myth, Sicily was born thanks to three nymphs wandering the sea, each gathering a handful of earth from the most fertile parts of the world: finally, they chose the clearest, bluest sky in the world, and from the three points where they stopped, they threw their handful of earth into the sea, creating the island. According to another myth, the island was born from the clash between gods and giants: Enceladus, one of them, tried to escape but fell into the Mediterranean, and Athena buried him under a rock—that rock is Sicily itself.
Angela: even if we used this entire blog to tell about the beauty and wonders of this land, it might still not be enough, but let’s try anyway…
Piero:Sicily is a unique land, a wonderful blend of sun, sea, and culture that you probably won’t find in any other region in the world. A unique heritage, with an extraordinary concentration of UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Angela: not to mention its millennia-old history, shaped by the stories of the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, and Spaniards.
Piero: we will try to get to know the myths, the folk traditions, and the sayings, born from a millennia-old culture and the use of a common language, Sicilian, still alive especially in small villages. Traditions often peculiar and sometimes picturesque that created the stereotype expressed by the term Sicilianità, meaning the unique character of the island compared to neighboring regions.
Angela: a land full of contrasts and contradictions: the water of the sea against the fire of the volcano; the black of the lava stone contrasting with the ochre of the limestone of Baroque towns; the lush green of the coast and the barren yellow of the inland; but above all the magnificent hospitality and warmth of the Sicilian people, opposed to the traits for which Cicero defined Sicilians as “sharp and suspicious people, born for controversies.”
Piero: people whose character is shaped by a “terrifying insularity of spirit,” as Tomasi di Lampedusa put it, because of the violence of the landscape, the cruelty of the climate, and the “external” dominations that, in exchange for magnificent and mysterious works of art, offered only oppression and taxes; dominations by peoples with finished civilizations and cultures to which the Sicilians always submitted without ever sprouting their own autonomous one.
Angela: today Sicily and the Sicilians are the extraordinary result of this story made up of heterogeneous civilizations in terms of religion, language, and traditions.
Piero: Sicilians are above all love for this land and proud attachment to their origins; but there is also a strong sense of inescapable fate combined with rejection of change. Giovanni Verga, in “I Malavoglia,” explains it well, describing the cult of “roba” (possessions) and the high sense of family, contrasted by the punishment of bad luck for those who want to change the world and are forced to return to the starting point, their land and their roots; likewise, Tomasi di Lampedusa in “The Leopard” recounts how “in Sicily it doesn’t matter if you do harm or good; the sin that we Sicilians never forgive is simply that of ‘doing’; in the deepest love for this land, I will never stop reproaching the atavistic stubbornness of those who, according to Tomasi di Lampedusa, never want to improve simply because they believe they are perfect, hiding misery with vanity.”
Angela: yours is surely a cry of pain from a lover hurt by distance. This is shown by the love and passion with which we will discover everything that gives charm to this wonderful land. In this wonderful journey, we will be accompanied by a new character, more or less imaginary, our “adopted son,” Alberto, ready to give us his suggestions and ideas.
Piero: we will certainly talk about well-known places, trying to uncover the more particular and lesser-known aspects; but we will also search for less frequented places off the usual tourist routes.
Angela: so let’s go! Here is the program:
Milazzo;
Salina;
Tindari;
Novara di Sicilia;
Alcantara Gorges;
Scala dei Turchi;
Etna;
Taormina;
Syracuse: Ortigia and the Neapolis Archaeological Park;
Modica;
Catania;
Ragusa Ibla;
Noto;
Piazza Armerina: the Roman Villa del Casale;
Cefalù;
the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento.
Piero: follow us then!
Ragusa Ibla
Discover Ragusa Ibla, one of the most beautiful Baroque towns in Sicily and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Wander through its charming alleys, admire the magnificent Cathedral of Saint George, elegant noble palaces, panoramic viewpoints and the peaceful Giardino Ibleo. Join us on a one-day walk through the timeless beauty of the Val di Noto.
Alberto: welcome back to Sicily, everyone! Another stop awaits us in this wonderful land.
Angela: here we are! Where are we going this time?
Alberto: today we have a short visit, less than a full day, to discover one of the hidden gems of south-eastern Sicily.
Piero: I suppose we're about to immerse ourselves once again in Sicilian Baroque.
Alberto: actually, we're visiting an ancient Greek city that was rebuilt in the Baroque style after a devastating earthquake.
Piero: I think I've guessed it. You're talking about Ragusa, and Ragusa Ibla in particular, aren't you?
Alberto: exactly! Then come with me.
From Hybla Heraia to Ragusa Ibla
Piero: just as it happened when we visited Modica, the journey itself is a wonderful experience. The road winds through olive groves, carob trees, and wooded hills. Here on the Ragusa Plateau, villages and towns are scattered across the landscape, leaving plenty of space for nature to flourish.
Alberto: this jewel of Sicilian Baroque, a true treasure chest of art and history, is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, together with the other Baroque towns of the Val di Noto, thanks to its extraordinary historical and architectural value.
Angela: the historic centre of Ragusa Ibla stands on the site of the ancient Greek city of Hybla Heraia. Very little remains of the original settlement, as it was largely destroyed by the devastating 1693 earthquake that struck eastern Sicily. Ragusa was then rebuilt in two separate areas: Ragusa Superiore, the modern town, developed on the plateau above, while Ragusa Ibla was reconstructed in magnificent Baroque style on the ruins of the ancient city below.
Alberto: in 1866, the district of Ibla became administratively independent from Ragusa under the name Ragusa Inferiore. The name Ragusa Ibla was officially adopted only in 1922.
Piero: on 2 January 1927, when Ragusa became the capital of the new province, the two municipalities were reunited. Today, Ibla is the city's most fascinating historical and artistic district. Locals simply call it Ibla, or Iusu in the local dialect, referring to its position in the lower part of the city.
Walking through Ragusa and Ibla
Angela: our visit won't be very long. The main attractions can easily be explored in half a day, but if you really want to experience the very best of Ibla, it is well worth spending at least a full day here.
Piero: especially since no fewer than eighteen monuments in the town have been recognised as part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. That alone says a lot about the extraordinary beauty of this remarkable place.
Angela: we easily find parking in the newer part of Ragusa. To reach Ibla, we have to descend 340 steps, and from the very beginning they reveal the beauty of this remarkable town. Almost immediately, we stop to capture the iconic postcard view that best represents Ragusa Ibla.
Piero: before heading down to Ibla, we stop to visit the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist in the upper part of the city. Here we discover that Ragusa has two patron saints: Saint John for Ragusa Superiore and Saint George for Ragusa Ibla. The Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist features a magnificent Baroque façade adorned with statues and three portals. Built mainly during the 18th century, it has a Latin cross floor plan and boasts beautiful chapels decorated with gilded Rococo stuccoes and polychrome marble statues. At the end of August, the cathedral becomes the heart of the solemn celebrations in honour of the city's patron saint, when the traditional procession of votive candles accompanies the statue of Saint John, preceded by the Holy Ark.
Alberto: we now make our way towards Via delle Scale, the long staircase that leads down to Ibla. The walk itself is already a wonderful introduction to the town. Our first stop is the Palazzo della Cancelleria, one of Ragusa's eighteen UNESCO World Heritage monuments and one of the finest examples of the town's refined Baroque architecture.
Piero: as we continue our walk, we arrive at the Church of Santa Maria delle Scale. The church itself may not be the most memorable monument in Ragusa, but its location makes it an unmissable stop on this itinerary. From the square in front of the church, you can enjoy a breathtaking panoramic view over the entire historic centre, with the magnificent dome of the Church of San Giorgio—our next destination—standing proudly above the rooftops.
Angela: from this panoramic viewpoint, it is impossible not to notice the bell tower topped by the striking cobalt-blue dome of the Church of Santa Maria dell’Itria. Originally built in the 14th century by the Knights of Malta, it stands in what was once the city's Jewish quarter.
Piero: at the bottom of the staircase, a maze of narrow streets awaits us, opening onto charming little squares lined with majestic palaces and beautifully decorated churches. The feeling is that this place is almost too small to contain so much beauty and poetry. Yet its elegance is never overwhelming or ostentatious—it is simply majestic, refined, and surprisingly intimate.
Angela: our exploration of Ibla begins in the beating heart of the town, Piazza del Duomo, the perfect place to stop for a coffee or a refreshing granita before continuing our visit.
Piero: at the upper end of the square stands the magnificent Cathedral of Saint George, approached by a monumental staircase and enclosed by an impressive wrought-iron gate. Built between 1744 and 1775 to a design by Rosario Gagliardi, it is regarded—together with the Church of Saint George in nearby Modica—as one of the finest masterpieces of Hyblean Baroque and a true icon of Sicilian Baroque architecture.
Angela: the majestic convex façade rises above the monumental staircase, creating one of the most iconic views in Ragusa Ibla. The main portal is flanked by three columns on each side, which continue to the upper level, above which stands the richly carved and decorated bell tower. The central section is crowned by a dome over forty metres high, added only in 1820. Inside, the cathedral features three naves adorned with numerous works of art, while the magnificent 18th-century altarpiece is undoubtedly one of its greatest treasures.
Alberto: you may have noticed that devotion to Saint George is especially strong in this part of Sicily, a tradition that dates back to the Norman period. In Ragusa Ibla, on the last Sunday of May, the city celebrates its patron saint with a spectacular procession through the streets. The equestrian statue of Saint George, shown defeating the dragon, is carried on the shoulders of the faithful and followed by a large crowd of devoted pilgrims.
Angela: and now for a more light-hearted curiosity. You may already recognise this church, its staircase, and the square from television: they were used as the fictional town of Vigata in the popular Italian TV series Inspector Montalbano.
Piero: climbing uphill from Piazza Duomo towards the upper part of Ibla, we reach Via Solarino, a panoramic street overlooking the dome of Saint George. From here, you can enjoy a unique view over the rooftops of Ibla, while also getting an up-close look at the cathedral's magnificent dome, with its colourful stained-glass windows and elegant Baroque architectural details.
Angela: on the opposite side of the square from the Cathedral, tucked away just behind a discreet corner on the right, stands the Church of Saint Joseph, one of Ragusa Ibla's hidden Baroque gems.
Piero: besides its magnificent churches, Ragusa Ibla is also home to eight noble palaces included among the town's eighteen UNESCO World Heritage monuments. These residences once belonged to the city's most influential families and are especially admired for their finely carved Baroque balconies. The most notable are Palazzo Cosentini and Palazzo Bertini, the latter famous for the three sculpted masks above its windows, representing the three emblematic figures of the Baroque age: a beggar, a merchant, and a nobleman. Also worthy of attention are Palazzo Zacco, Palazzo Schininà, Palazzo Sortino-Trono, Palazzo Nicastro, Palazzo Battaglia, and Palazzo La Rocca. Although it is not part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Circolo di Conversazione, overlooking Piazza Duomo, is well worth a visit. Built in the mid-19th century in an elegant Neoclassical style, it was commissioned by the local aristocracy as an exclusive meeting place, away from the bustle of everyday life.
Alberto: continuing in the same direction, away from Piazza Duomo, we reach the Giardino Ibleo, a beautiful public garden filled with palm trees and offering lovely views over the surrounding Hyblean Hills. It is the perfect place for a short break or a picnic lunch. Inside the park, you'll find a children's playground, a fountain where you can cool off on hot summer days, and two charming churches: the Church of Saint James the Apostle and the Church of Saint Agatha of the Capuchins. Nearby stands the Portal of Saint George, the only surviving remnant of the original 12th-century church, which was destroyed in the devastating 1693 earthquake.
See you Ragusa!
Piero: a short visit, but one that leaves a lasting impression. We end the day with one of the most beautiful views of Ragusa Ibla: after sunset, the town glows beneath a blanket of warm ochre-coloured lights, creating a magical atmosphere that is impossible to forget.
Angela: a true Baroque gem, Ragusa Ibla is an unmissable destination for anyone exploring the magnificent Val di Noto.
Piero: now sit back, relax, and enjoy the beauty of our walk through Ragusa Ibla in this video.
Catania
Ecco la traduzione in inglese mantenendo lo stile narrativo del blog/video:
Catania combines its lively and vibrant spirit with a unique elegance, expressed through its famous “black Baroque” style. Destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout history, it is watched over, protected, and threatened by Mount Etna, which dominates the city’s skyline. We take you with us on a one-day walk to discover all its wonders.
We start from Piazza Duomo, with the Badia di Sant’Agata: climbing to the top of the dome offers a unique panoramic view over the entire city. Then we visit the Cathedral, dedicated to the city’s patron saint. In the centre of the square stands the Elephant Fountain, the symbol of Catania.
Next to the square is the fish market, a lively and colourful place that is not to be missed. Another highlight is the visit to one of the most beautiful and characteristic noble residences: Palazzo Biscari. From here, we continue to the theatre named after the great Catanian composer Vincenzo Bellini.
Crossing Via Etnea, we reach Villa Bellini, the splendid city park. The walk continues along Via dei Crociferi, from where we reach the remarkable Church of San Nicolò l’Arena, which houses the large votive candles and a beautiful sundial. Right next to it stands the impressive Benedictine Monastery.
Our walk ends with the Roman Theatre, now surrounded and hidden among the city buildings, and Ursino Castle, built under Frederick II.
Posso anche adattarlo in una versione più “YouTube description” con un tono più emozionale e orientato alla SEO.
Alberto: welcome back to Sicily, guys! Are you ready to set off again and discover this wonderful land?
Angela: absolutely ready! Where are we going this time?
Piero: you know, every time we land here or pass through, we have never actually visited it…
Alberto: that is quite an easy clue…
Angela: are you thinking about Catania?
Piero: exactly! We have seen so many places, but we have never stopped to explore this wonderful city, except just passing by.
Alberto: it would take two or three days to properly visit Catania, but I will try to show you the very best of it in just one day.
Piero: we leave our van comfortably at the Piazza Paolo Borsellino parking area, just a few steps from the city centre, and we will explore everything completely on foot.
Melior de cinere surgo
Angela: it is not just the inscription found on one of the gates of Catania, the Ferdinandea Gate; it is the perfect summary of the city’s history.
Piero: “I will rise from the ashes even more beautiful” is the phrase that perfectly expresses the pride of a population that, tirelessly, has continued to rebuild its city, making it more beautiful every time, after being repeatedly destroyed and reborn from the ashes of the previous one.
Alberto: when we talk about Catania, our thoughts immediately go to Mount Etna, the volcano that at the same time threatens and protects the city. “A muntagna”, as people call it here, is like a strict mother who cares for and punishes her children; in the same way, Etna has shaped the history of Catania, for better and for worse.
Angela: today Catania is the result of its troubled and fascinating history. Walking through its historic centre, you can see the coexistence of a strong late Baroque identity, with elegant churches and noble palaces, alongside Greek and Roman theatres, amphitheatres, and thermal baths. Everything is united by the unique ash-black colour of the lava stone.
Alberto: the history of Catania begins in 729 BC, when the Greeks, coming from the city of Naxos, founded Katanè. It became an important Greek commercial city until the 5th century BC. From that moment onwards, conflicts with Syracuse and the resulting defeats led to the abandonment of the city, with its inhabitants forced to move first to present-day Lentini and later to Paternò. Only from the 4th century BC was the city repopulated, until the Roman conquest in 263 BC, during the First Punic War.
Angela: the Roman period was a time of great splendour for Catania. This era saw the creation of much of the urban layout and road system, partly still visible today. The construction of the Roman Amphitheatre, the Theatre, the Odeon, numerous thermal complexes, and an efficient water supply system all date back to this period, proving the wealth and high quality of life that characterised Catania during the Imperial Age.
Angela: after the Byzantine period, the Vandals, Arabs, Normans, Swabians, Angevins, and Aragonese all left a deep mark on Catania, with the construction of palaces, churches, and Ursino Castle under Frederick II.
Piero: for Catania, the Early Middle Ages were a period of slow decline, which reached its peak with the devastating eruption of 1693. Although the city had always been threatened by the destructive power of Mount Etna, this eruption almost completely destroyed Catania, killing a large part of its population of around twenty thousand inhabitants at the time.
Angela: the city was immediately rebuilt thanks to a unified project by Giuseppe Lanza, Duke of Camastra, carried out by the Sicilian architect Giovan Battista Vaccarini, a disciple of Bernini. The energy of this reconstruction quickly brought Catania back to life, attracting craftsmen and architects and encouraging strong economic recovery. The city’s current splendour comes from this period, with the creation of wide straight streets, elegant palaces, and churches built with a harmonious style, using both black lava stone and light limestone. This gave rise to the distinctive Catanian Baroque, which characterises the historic centre, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Piero: during the Bourbon period, Catania lost part of its importance in favour of Palermo, with an economy mainly based on agriculture and large estates. After the unification of Italy, the city began a new period of growth thanks to commercial and industrial development led by a young mayor and future foreign minister, Antonino Paternò Castello, Marquis of San Giuliano. This was also a period of rapid and turbulent social transformation, where the new wealthy classes and the old aristocracy maintained power, while many others remained excluded. These feelings were perfectly represented by the Sicilian Verismo literary movement, whose greatest exponent was Giovanni Verga, who portrayed the so-called “defeated” in works such as The House by the Medlar Tree among the poor and Mastro-don Gesualdo among the aristocracy.
Angela: Catania can rightly be considered the cultural capital of Sicily, thanks to its extraordinary literary and architectural vitality and to great figures such as the composer Vincenzo Bellini. It was also home to the first Sicilian university, one of the oldest in the world: the Siculorum Gymnasium, founded in 1434.
Piero: despite everything, nature has also been generous to this city. The volcanic soil has always been extremely fertile, with citrus groves and vineyards surrounding Catania towards Mount Etna. Even the coastline reflects the colours of the city’s architecture: to the south lies La Playa, with kilometres of golden sand, while to the north there are lava cliffs leading to the legendary Cyclops Riviera and the Faraglioni of Aci Trezza.
Angela: and, of course, Catania’s flavours, aromas, fruits, and traditional dishes are simply incomparable.
Piero: today Catania is a modern city that hosts one of the largest high-tech hubs in Italy, known as Etna Valley.
The wonders of Catania in just one day
Angela: with such a rich history behind it, expectations are certainly high, and I cannot wait to discover all the wonders of this city.
Piero: of course, one single day, even a full one, is not enough time to truly explore Catania, but it is sufficient to see its main attractions.
Alberto: let’s begin our pleasant summer walk then. We leave the parking area and cross the Pacini Gardens towards Porta Uzeda, the southern entrance to the historic centre and, above all, to Piazza Duomo. The gate opens through the 16th-century walls of Charles V and is named after the Spanish viceroy Giovanni Francesco Paceco, Duke of Uceda.
Angela: we cross Piazza Duomo, taking a quick look at the beautiful Cathedral of Sant’Agata on our right and the Elephant Fountain on our left. We will stop and admire them properly later. For now, let’s take the opportunity to visit the Badia of Sant’Agata, located opposite the left side of the Cathedral.
Piero: the Church of the Badia of Sant’Agata is a magnificent example of the late Baroque reconstruction that followed the devastating 1693 earthquake in Catania. Roman and Baroque architecture blend together perfectly; the marble floors and altars are particularly remarkable. After the 2015 restoration, the route to the terraces and the dome became accessible, offering a unique panoramic view over the entire city, from the sea to the mountain. We make it our first stop, early in the morning, avoiding the queues and the crowds of tourists, and taking all the time needed to enjoy this extraordinary spectacle.
Angela: after admiring the Cathedral and its dome from above, we now set off to discover one of the greatest symbols of Catania: the Cathedral itself.
Piero: the Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Agatha, the virgin and martyr and patron saint of the city of Catania. Every February, the people of Catania celebrate her with extraordinary devotion in one of the most important religious festivals in the world.
Angela: the church has been destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout history due to the many earthquakes that struck the area. The first construction dates back to the 11th century, built on the remains of the ancient Roman Achillian Baths. The current building is the result of the combined work of the architect Girolamo Palazzotto, who designed the interior, and Giovanni Battista Vaccarini, who created and supervised the construction of the façade.
Piero: we leave the Cathedral and find ourselves once again in Piazza Duomo. At the centre of the square stands the Elephant Fountain, the true symbol of Catania.
Angela: this monument was also created by Vaccarini during the reconstruction that followed the devastating earthquake. The architect was inspired by the Minerva Obelisk in Rome, designed by Bernini. The fountain and the pedestal are made of white marble, as are the two statues representing the two rivers of Catania, the Simeto and the Amenano. The granite obelisk above the elephant statue recalls the ancient Egyptian obelisks; it was probably one of the two original turning points of the Roman circus of Catania (the other one is located in the courtyard of Ursino Castle).
Piero: the elephant, carved in an uncertain period from lava stone with white limestone eyes and tusks, is the central element and above all the symbol of Catania. “U Liotru”, as the people of Catania call it, is linked according to legend to the distorted pronunciation of the name Eliodoro, a nobleman from Catania who, after trying to become a bishop, fell into disgrace, became a magician, and was said to have created the statue. According to the story, Eliodoro was burned at the stake, and the city bishop ordered the statue to be taken outside the walls to make people forget it, but the population continued to honour it with almost divine reverence.
According to other legends, an elephant helped defeat wild animals during the foundation of ancient Catania, and later, during the war between the Carthaginians and the people of Catania, the locals captured all the elephants belonging to the invaders. The elephant and the statue therefore became symbols of these legendary victories.
Angela: unlike the imaginative popular legends, the elephant statue is actually the gnomon of the sundial located in the centre of Piazza Duomo. The monument is therefore a device that measures time through the sunlight and is considered “heliotric”; in the Catanian dialect, this word became “liotru”. The people of Catania have always considered it a magical statue, capable of protecting the city from the eruptions of Mount Etna. Today, the pachyderm appears on the coats of arms of the municipality, the metropolitan city, and the university, as well as being the mascot of the main local sports clubs.
Piero: right near Piazza Duomo, behind the Amenano Fountain, known as “Acqua o linzolu”, lies the historic fish market, a true symbol of the area. Through its products and its fishermen, it tells wonderful stories every day, from the early hours of the morning until lunchtime. (Attention: it is closed on Sundays.)
Angela: here, time seems to have stopped, and it is truly enjoyable to walk among the colours, sounds, and scents of this place. On the stalls, the blue of the anchovies, the black of the cuttlefish, the silver of sea bass and sea bream, and the red of freshly sliced tuna or swordfish contrast beautifully with the white marble. Listening to the calls of the fishermen and witnessing their art of bargaining, a tradition inherited from the Arabs, is a true experience of authentic Sicilian folklore, different every single day. “A piscaria”, as the people of Catania call it, feels like the place where you could find the fishermen described by Verga in The House by the Medlar Tree, even though we are not in Aci Trezza.
Piero: walking through the narrow streets, covered by colourful umbrellas, the fish stalls alternate with stands selling seasonal fruit and vegetables, small kiosks where you can quench your thirst or enjoy some delicious street food.
Angela: we end our morning with a visit to Palazzo Biscari.
Piero: the historic centre of Catania is characterised by the presence of magnificent noble palaces, a testimony to the important past of this city. Of course, it is impossible to visit them all, so we choose the most important private palace in Catania, a precious example of Sicilian Baroque, with its fascinating and elegant frescoed halls.
Angela: this is the historic residence, still inhabited today, of the Paternò Castello family, Princes of Biscari. The palace was originally built along the city walls of Catania, and the Biscari family was one of the few aristocratic families granted royal permission to construct buildings directly on them. Originally, the palace overlooked the sea; with the expansion of the city, it is now located a few hundred metres away from the coastline.
Piero: it is particularly interesting to visit the palace with the help of a guide. The seaside façade is not to be missed, with its allegorical groups representing abundance, prosperity, fertility, and wisdom.
Angela: the ballroom is perhaps the most fascinating interior space, designed in the Rococo style with magnificent mirrors, stuccoes, and frescoes, as well as the central dome, which was used to house the orchestra. The dome can be reached through a staircase decorated with stucco work, which Prince Ignazio called “a fiocco di nuvola” (“a cloud bow”).
Piero: finally, it is worth visiting the Princess’s apartments, with their beautiful inlaid wooden boiseries and Roman-era marble floors.
Angela: here are some interesting facts about the palace: among its most famous visitors was the writer Johann Wolfgang Goethe, who, during his journey through Italy, was welcomed by the Prince of Biscari. In 2008, the palace became the setting for the music video of “Violet Hill” by the British band Coldplay. During the Second World War, the ballroom was turned by the British into a tennis court, and a ball damaged one of the paintings; Queen Elizabeth II personally “apologised” for it during her visit in the 1980s.
Angela: the final stop of our morning is the visit to the Massimo Theatre, dedicated to the great Catanian composer Vincenzo Bellini. It is located a short distance from Palazzo Biscari, in the square that bears his name. Inaugurated in 1890, the Bellini Theatre, magnificent in its architecture, is the heart of the city’s musical life. It can accommodate around 1,200 spectators, boasts perfect acoustics, and every year hosts an opera and ballet season, a symphonic season, and a chamber music season.
Piero: now it is time for a well-deserved break, with a granita or an arancino (remember, with the “o”…) perhaps enjoyed in front of Villa Bellini.
Angela: finally! Let’s enjoy some freshness in the most important park of Catania. Originally, the estate belonged to the Paternò Castello family (the same family of Palazzo Biscari). For the people of Catania, Giardino Bellini is simply called “a Villa”: a favourite place for leisure, relaxation, walks, and meetings. It hosts many species of plants, including exotic and century-old trees, as well as the Avenue of Celebrities, where the busts of the greatest Catanian personalities are displayed.
Piero: from Via Etnea, one of the main shopping streets of Catania, we reach Piazza Stesicoro, where we can see the few remaining ruins of the Roman Amphitheatre. They are rather modest and, unfortunately, not very well maintained. We quickly move on and head towards our next stop.
Angela: we arrive at Via dei Crociferi, a true explosion of Baroque architecture and atmospheres. Although it is very short, it is considered one of the most beautiful streets in Catania, so much so that it has been chosen as a film location for movies such as Il bell’Antonio by Bolognini, Storia di una capinera by Zeffirelli, and I Vicerè by Faenza. In just two hundred metres, it hosts four magnificent churches.
Piero: according to legend, the Arch of San Benedetto, which closes the street next to the homonymous church, was built in a single night, and it was said that a headless horse wandered beneath it.
Angela: not far from here we find the Church of San Nicolò l’Arena. It is a severe and imposing building, both in its external appearance and in its interior.
Piero: besides being a military memorial housing the remains of several Catanian soldiers who fell during the two World Wars, inside the church there are also some of the cerei, the large devotional candles traditionally used during the celebrations in honour of the city’s patron saint, Saint Agatha.
Angela: in the transept there is a large sundial extending for about forty metres between the two chapels dedicated to Saint Benedict of Norcia and Saint Nicholas of Bari.
Piero: adjacent to the church stands the Benedictine Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which today houses the headquarters of the Department of Humanities of the University of Catania.
Angela: commissioned and built by the Benedictine monks in the 16th century, it is an example of architectural integration between different historical periods and stands on the remains of an ancient Roman city that is now buried. The cloister is particularly beautiful: it is definitely worth dedicating about one hour to a guided tour.
Piero: now rather tired, we continue our walk towards the Roman Theatre.
Angela: if you expect to see it emerge in all its majesty, you will be disappointed, because here in Catania the theatre is now hidden by the buildings that were constructed around and directly on top of it. In fact, it is accessed just like an ordinary building entrance, from number 266 Via Vittorio Emanuele.
Piero: it dates back to the 2nd century AD and is connected to a smaller theatre known as the Odeon. It was probably built on top of an earlier Greek structure. As mentioned, today it is surrounded by noble palaces that over the centuries have partly altered its appearance and even occupied some of its spaces. Later expropriations and demolitions have restored much of its original splendour.
Angela: the final stop of our visit to Catania is another of the city’s great symbols: Ursino Castle.
Piero: the castle was built under Frederick II of Swabia in the 13th century, on what was once the seashore. The subsequent lava flows have changed the coastline, and today the sea is about a hundred metres away. Nowadays, it houses the Civic Museum of Catania.
Goodbye Catania!
Angela: this is how we end our day in the magnificent Catania. We have discovered most of the wonders of this extraordinary Etna city.
Piero: I did not expect to find a city so modern and dynamic on one side, yet so rich in history and traditions on the other.
Angela: Catania combines its energy and liveliness with a unique elegance, expressed through its famous “black Baroque” style. Destroyed and rebuilt many times throughout history, it is watched over, protected, and at the same time threatened by Mount Etna, which dominates the landscape behind it.
Piero: enjoy the beauty of our walk through Catania in this video.
A day in Cefalù, the pearl of Sicily
Discover Cefalù, one of the most fascinating gems of Sicily: from the climb to the Rock with its breathtaking views, to the magnificent Norman Cathedral and its Christ Pantocrator mosaic, passing through the charming streets of the historic centre, local flavours and the golden beach. A journey through history, art and the beauty of the Sicilian sea.
Alberto: welcome back to Sicily, guys! Are you ready to set off again and discover this wonderful land?
Piero: where are we going this time?
Angela: another destination. Another corner of Sicily. And every time, it feels like this one is the most beautiful.
Piero: this one really is amazing! Just look at this wonder…
Alberto: Cefalù reveals itself like this, suddenly, just after a bend in the road. With that enormous rock dominating the landscape and, below it, a small town nestled between stone and sea.
Piero: there is something truly ancient here, something that surrounds you as soon as you step into its narrow streets.
Angela: a perfect balance. The vertical power of the mountain and the endless horizon of the sea. And then, of course, the Cathedral.
Alberto: I can see you are ready and full of energy, as always. We can easily reach Cefalù thanks to the A20 motorway. Finding parking will not be easy in August, but we’ll manage…
Angela: let’s begin then…
A story carved in the rock
Alberto: today I will take you to discover one of the oldest cities in Sicily.
Piero: the name comes from the Greek Kephaloidion, meaning “head”, because of the shape of the promontory. The Greeks had already founded a polis here, which was later further developed under the Romans. However, the city was not originally located exactly where we see it today: it was higher up, on the rock. Only during the Middle Ages did the population begin to move towards the sea.
Angela: and it was Roger II, the great Norman king, who would change its destiny forever. In 1131, according to legend, his ship was at risk of sinking right in front of these shores. He managed to survive and made a vow: to build a cathedral exactly where he had landed.
Alberto: exactly! It was from this event and this story that the Cathedral of Cefalù was born. A monumental basilica, conceived both as a place of worship and as a powerful political symbol. An imperial cathedral for an ambitious king.
Piero: a gesture full of meaning: bringing Byzantine art here, creating a model of kingdom that united East and West, Islam and Christianity. Cefalù became a crossroads, a vibrant city that over the centuries remained faithful to its identity: maritime, devout, and proud.
Alberto: even today, the Feast of the Holy Saviour, held every August, involves the entire city, culminating with the “ntinna a mari”, a traditional competition where participants test their balance on a slippery pole suspended over the water.
Piero: the history of Cefalù is therefore not so different from that of the rest of Sicily, except for what we have already mentioned. Nor is its later history, which continues up to the present day. Today, it is a truly fascinating tourist destination, both for its beautiful beaches and for the extraordinary works of art it preserves.
Discovering the Rocca of Cefalù: a path to the sky
Alberto: I will start our visit to Cefalù in a very special and unusual way: I will take you to discover the Rock of Cefalù, the dramatic promontory that forms the backdrop of the city and where the ancient settlement once stood.
Angela: we start our climb early. The air is still fresh, and the morning light begins to warm the stones. The path to the Rock of Cefalù is steep but incredibly fascinating (to access it, you need to purchase a ticket, and entry is not allowed with flip-flops or open shoes). The first section is quite easy even for families with children. The view gradually opens up, surrounded by dry-stone walls, broom plants, and rugged cliffs.
Piero: the first stop is the so-called Temple of Diana, a megalithic structure dating back to the 9th century BC. Despite its name, it has nothing to do with the Greeks. It was probably an ancient indigenous sacred site, connected to the cult of water. It is extraordinary to think that here, on this rock overlooking the sea, people performed rituals long before the arrival of the Greeks and Romans.
Angela: then we continue our climb. The traces of different historical periods blend together: there are Byzantine cisterns, medieval walls, and ruins that seem suspended in time. And finally, at the top, we reach the remains of the Norman castle. The last part of the path is more challenging and can be difficult to manage for those who suffer from vertigo…
Alberto: but the true wonder is the view: on one side, the deep blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea; on the other, the red rooftops of the city, the Cathedral rising above everything, and the gentle curve of the northern coastline.
Piero: a view that you will never forget. We remain in silence for a few minutes, listening only to the wind and the distant sound of the waves.
The Cathedral: a golden light
Alberto: now we return to the historic centre. With the Rock of Cefalù behind us, after walking through the narrow streets, Piazza Duomo opens up before us.
Piero: seeing it from a distance and from above is beautiful, but having it right in front of you is truly breathtaking.
Angela: the façade is truly imposing. Two solid, square battlemented towers dominate the entrance. But the real beauty is inside. We step in… and there it is, the face that commands the entire space.
Piero: the Christ Pantocrator. A serene and solemn face, with deep and luminous eyes, the right hand raised in blessing and the left hand holding the Gospel. A magnificent masterpiece, created by Byzantine craftsmen in just twenty years, between 1145 and 1166. The mosaic covers the entire apse. Gold, blue, red, and green: every single tile reflects the light in a different way.
Angela: around him, a procession of saints, prophets, and angels. Everything follows a precise order, a clear theological hierarchy. And then there are the mosaics of the nave: Gospel scenes and Christian symbols. The stone feels warm and ancient. The columns are Roman, with capitals that are all different from one another. Above us, arches that seem to come from the Eastern world.
Piero: a dialogue between different cultures, transformed into architecture.
Alberto: and then there is the cloister, just a little further on. An oasis of silence, with twin columns and beautifully carved capitals.
Piero: hunting scenes, fantastic animals, and floral motifs. A miniature world carved into stone.
In the heart of the village: stone, sea, and cuisine
Alberto: after leaving the Cathedral, we lose ourselves among the narrow streets of Cefalù. The city is alive, vibrant, and filled with wonderful scents.
Angela: we stop at the ancient medieval washhouse, where the water of the Cefalino River still flows through the lava stone basins. It is a simple yet truly fascinating place. And then the sea is right there, just a few steps away.
Piero: we enter one of the many traditional restaurants in the historic centre. The tables are set outdoors, and the air is filled with the scents of fish and basil. Choosing is not easy: pasta with sardines, swordfish rolls, eggplant caponata, and fig cassateddi.
Angela: all accompanied by a glass of Grillo wine, fresh and fruity.
Alberto: if you want to stay light while still treating your palate to something special, I suggest a almond or mulberry granita with a brioche.
Alberto: Sicily is also this: authentic flavours, and recipes that tell stories.
Discovering the beaches and sea of Cefalù
Angela: in the afternoon, we move to the beach. It is right below the houses, just a few steps from the historic centre.
Piero: the sand is golden, the water is crystal clear. Children are playing, someone is reading, others are diving from the pier. Time seems to slow down.
Angela: we sit on the sand. The sea is in front of us. Behind us, the Rock of Cefalù. And in between, the city. Cefalù seems made to be admired from here, especially at sunset. The orange light reflects on the stones, and the mosaics still shine in our memory.
Goodbye Cefalù
Piero: when you leave Cefalù, something stays with you. Not only the photos or the memories, but an image that remains forever inside you: the face of Christ, the calm sea, and the ancient stones beneath your feet.
Angela: Cefalù is made of light. The one that sparkles on the mosaics, the one that dances on the sea, the one that remains in your eyes even after you have left.
Piero: and it is exactly that light that, in the end, you carry away with you. Without even realizing it.
Angela: enjoy our walk through Cefalù in this video:
Modica
Discover Modica, a jewel of the Val di Noto and Sicilian Baroque. Explore its stunning churches, noble palaces, ancient castle, the birthplace of Salvatore Quasimodo and the famous Modica chocolate. A journey through history, art, culture and breathtaking views among alleys, stairways and the unique atmosphere of one of Sicily’s most fascinating towns.
Alberto: are you ready, guys? We’re leaving again! After exploring Syracuse, we are now heading to discover the Val di Noto and its magnificent Baroque heritage.
Angela: wonderful! Since 2002, this area has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Piero: over the next few days, we will visit some of the true gems of this region. Today we begin with Modica, famous not only for its extraordinary Baroque architecture, but also for its unique chocolate and for being the birthplace of Salvatore Quasimodo.
Angela: we’re ready then! Let’s go!
Next stop: Modica!
Piero: Modica is about 70 kilometres from Syracuse, heading south-west. The route is not complicated: after leaving Syracuse, we take the A18 motorway towards Gela and exit at Rosolini. From there, we continue for about 40 kilometres along the SP70 provincial road, which takes us directly to Modica.
Angela: the town is quite small and finding parking is not difficult. Once we leave our van, we practically won’t need it anymore. Our plan is to visit the main attractions in just over half a day, including a full lunch break.
Alberto: Modica stands on a plateau in the southern part of the Hyblean Mountains, not far from Ragusa, and stretches across the slopes of two valleys and the surrounding hills. It appears as a fascinating maze of small houses, narrow streets, and long stairways. The historic centre still preserves its medieval layout, which developed around the rocky spur of Pizzo Hill, where the once impregnable castle stood.
Angela: the houses built one against another are often extensions of ancient caves, inhabited since prehistoric times. Once, these hundreds of caves were directly used as homes; today, they have been incorporated into the later buildings, becoming an integral part of the town’s unique urban landscape.
Piero: the city has extremely ancient origins. It was first inhabited by the Sicani and later by the Phoenicians, before the arrival of the Greek and Roman dominations. Throughout its long history, Modica was crossed by the Byzantines, Vandals, and Goths during the Middle Ages. Around the year 1000, it came under the rule of the Saracens, who were later driven out by the Normans, followed by the Angevins and the Aragonese.
Angela: according to myth, the city was founded by Hercules. During his tenth labour, the Greek hero captured the red oxen of the giant Geryon and travelled towards Italy. However, the animals he was carrying with him were stolen in Sicily. Hercules was helped in recovering them by a young Greek woman named Motia. As a sign of gratitude, the hero founded three cities exactly in the places where he found the oxen again, dedicating each one to her. Thus were born Mozia, near Marsala, another Motya near Agrigento, and finally our own Modica.
Getting lost in Modica's stairways and alleys…
Alberto: to see everything at its best (and especially to take photographs…), we’ll need about two hours. And then I’d like to leave you some time for a little surprise…
Angela: let’s begin right away then!
Piero: Modica is built on a series of irregular levels and terraces, connected by stairways and winding climbs. As you venture into its narrow streets, every step and every staircase reveals a new discovery. Modica is the city of the “one hundred churches”, of magnificent noble palaces, but also of charming simple houses and old workshops, all together creating breathtaking views.
Alberto: it is precisely from one of these beautiful staircases that we approach the most famous and spectacular monument of the city: the Church of San Giorgio, which connects the lower and upper parts of Modica.
Angela: it is considered one of the most impressive Baroque places of worship in all of Sicily. Its grandeur is certainly enhanced by the 250 steps leading to the entrance, but above all by its more than 60 metres in height, which makes it visible from every point of the city.
The façade has a warm golden colour, typical of the Baroque style that characterizes the entire city, and is the result of the decision to rebuild the church after the devastating earthquake of 1693 that destroyed much of the Val di Noto.
It has five entrance doors and the interior is divided into five naves, with 22 columns featuring Corinthian capitals. Inside, it houses a magnificent organ with four keyboards and 3,000 pipes, several valuable paintings and statues, a large polyptych behind the altar, and a fascinating sundial on the floor.
Piero: right next to the Cathedral, on its left side, stands Palazzo Polara, another magnificent example of Baroque architecture. The entrance must be booked in advance, and inside it preserves furniture, frescoes, and decorative objects that bring back the atmosphere of past centuries. The palace also has a balcony offering a wonderful view of the city. Together with the other noble palaces scattered throughout the town, it bears witness to the glorious past of Modica.
Angela: after the Norman reconquest, Modica became a county, perhaps one of the most important in the entire southern Italy. Its territory once included all the municipalities of today’s province of Ragusa, as well as the baronies of Alcamo and Calatafimi in the province of Trapani, along with other towns across Sicily. With the abolition of the feudal system in the 19th century, Modica gradually lost its political importance, and in 1927 it was Ragusa that was elevated to the status of a province. I mention this because we are now heading towards another great symbol of the city: the castle.
Alberto: it is only a few narrow streets away from the Cathedral, followed by another fairly demanding staircase… it’s better to check the opening hours first to avoid any surprises.
Piero: the Castle of the Counts is perched on top of a rocky spur and, together with the Cathedral, dominates the entire city. It is a medieval castle of which very little remains today, mainly due to the devastating earthquake of 1693. It is still possible to enjoy a pleasant walk along what remains of the ancient walls. Near the castle fortifications stands the Clock Tower, built on the remains of an old watchtower that was also destroyed by the earthquake.
Modica and Quasimodo
Alberto: since we are reaching the end of our walk through the upper part of the city, I want to take you to discover one of the most illustrious figures Modica has ever given birth to: Salvatore Quasimodo.
Piero: Salvatore Quasimodo was born in Modica on 20 August 1901, but his relationship with his hometown was not always straightforward. First of all, once he became famous, the poet preferred to indicate Syracuse as his birthplace, perhaps because of the strong connection between the Arethusean city, Magna Graecia, and the classical culture that was so close to him. Furthermore, at the age of only two, he moved to Roccalumera, near Messina, because of his father’s work as a railway employee. Having spent his childhood there, Quasimodo developed a stronger emotional bond with this town rather than with Modica.
Angela: despite everything, today Modica proudly celebrates the greatness of one of its most illustrious citizens, who was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1959.
Piero: not far from the castle, still in the upper part of the city, stands the poet’s birthplace. It can be recognized by the commemorative plaque placed outside. Today, the house hosts the museum dedicated to the great writer, and it can be visited with the help of an extraordinary and passionate guide.
In the study and the bedroom, you can see the furniture and personal objects that belonged to Quasimodo, as well as admire a large collection of signed photographs, special editions of his works, and personal memorabilia. The guided visit lasts about half an hour and ends with a video of the Nobel Prize ceremony held in Stockholm, together with a recording of the poet’s own voice reciting some of his works. It is absolutely worth visiting!
Discovering Modica chocolate…
Angela: after completing our tour of the upper part of the city, we return towards Corso Umberto I, the main street of the lower town. Today it is the favourite evening meeting place, both for tourists and locals. Here you can enjoy a drink, taste an arancino, or simply take a walk while eating an ice cream.
Piero: we certainly cannot leave without tasting one of the specialities for which Modica is famous throughout the world: chocolate. The uniqueness of Modica chocolate lies in its cold processing, which keeps the sugar crystals intact. It does not melt completely in your mouth, but rather has a distinctive crumbly texture. The dark chocolate version is superb, but it is also available in many different varieties, such as cinnamon, chilli pepper, or even wine flavours.
Angela: with this delicious surprise, our visit to Modica comes to an end.
Piero: truly a wonderful discovery in the heart of the Sicilian Baroque. Art and culture are scattered among its narrow streets and stairways, offering breathtaking views at every turn. It is definitely worth spending a day in the land of Quasimodo and chocolate.
Alberto: now we have to go back and pick up our van. Our journey continues. Goodbye, Modica!
Piero: wait a moment! It is definitely worth watching our visit again in this video:
Neapolis Archaeological Park
Explore the magnificent Neapolis Archaeological Park in Syracuse, one of Sicily’s most important archaeological sites. Discover the impressive Greek Theatre, the mysterious Ear of Dionysius, the ancient latomie, the Altar of Hieron and the Roman Amphitheatre. A journey through centuries of history, mythology and architecture that reveals the timeless splendour of one of the greatest cities of the ancient Mediterranean.
Alberto: wake up, guys! It’s another beautiful morning here in Syracuse, and we still haven’t finished discovering the wonders of this city!
Angela: here we are! You said our visit wasn’t over yet, but we don’t have much time left. We only have this morning.
Alberto: you’ll see, it will be enough. Syracuse has so much to offer, but there are basically two places you absolutely cannot miss, and we have already visited the first one.
Piero: the second one is easy to guess: it’s the Neapolis Archaeological Park.
Alberto: exactly! It is a true wonder that will leave you speechless. We are also lucky to visit it during a season with mild temperatures and, above all, with far fewer crowds.
Angela: are you ready then? Let’s go!
Here we are at the Neapolis Archaeological Park…
Alberto: it is located in the heart of Syracuse, in the north-western part of the city, and the distance to cover is really short. If you are staying in town, around Ortigia, you can even reach it on foot.
Angela: I imagine that in spring and summer finding parking must be quite difficult, despite the presence of a large car park. Between Christmas and New Year’s Eve, however, we have almost no trouble at all…
Piero: even the queues for tickets and entrance are practically non-existent. Be careful during the months of mass tourism: it might be better to buy your tickets online in advance.
Alberto: we get our tickets and we are ready to begin our visit. Before that, though, let’s make a short stop at the bar in front of the ticket office for a coffee…
Piero: a useful piece of advice, especially during the summer: if you haven’t brought any water with you (especially for children), don’t forget to buy some. It can get really hot here, and many sections of the route are open-air and exposed to the sun.
Alberto: to fully appreciate everything (and above all to take photographs…), we’ll need about two hours.
Angela: let’s begin right away!
Let’s dive into history
Alberto: we immediately begin our journey through the place that perhaps more than any other in Syracuse best represents its thousand-year history.
Piero: the Neapolis Archaeological Park as we see it today is the result of a long and complex process of restoration and preservation that began in the 1950s. The main part of the park is certainly represented by its Greek and Roman monuments, but the evidence from other historical periods should not be overlooked, from the prehistoric age to the Byzantine period. The feeling is that of walking through an incredible open-air museum!
Angela: the park covers an area of 240,000 square metres, on the southern slopes of the Epipoli plateau. The true heart of the park is located on a hill called Temenite, from the Greek word temenos, meaning sanctuary. This was in fact the area where a sanctuary dedicated to Apollo once stood. During the Greek period, this area was outside the city walls that protected the actual urban centre. However, there is evidence of human settlements dating back to the Bronze Age.
Piero: although an early theatre already existed from the 5th century BC, it was the tyrant Hieron II who gave this area much of its splendour. Thanks to him, the theatre was completed and the magnificent altar of Hieron was built. Later, during the Augustan age, the Romans constructed the amphitheatre, right near the Greek theatre.
Angela: the true protagonist of this park is undoubtedly archaeology, but what makes the landscape unique is also the lush vegetation of the latomie. This term comes from ancient Greek and is composed of lâs, meaning stone, and tomíai, meaning to cut. These were therefore stone quarries or marble quarries that, during the Greek-Roman era, were used as prisons for slaves, war prisoners, and other captives. It is a true natural spectacle within an extraordinary archaeological landscape!
Piero: remembering what we saw in Ortigia and thinking about what we are about to discover here, it is easy to understand why Cicero described Syracuse as “the greatest and most beautiful of all Greek cities.”
The Latomies and the Tomb of Archimedes
Angela: our route begins precisely with the latomies. We visit, one after the other, the Intagliatella Quarry and the Santa Venera Quarry.
Piero: continuing our walk, we reach the so-called Tomb of Archimedes. However, this is actually a historical misconception. The monument dates back to the Roman period, but it is the most impressive tomb in the area, and for this reason it was believed to be the final resting place of the most famous citizen of Syracuse of all time.
Angela: we then move on to the most beautiful of the latomie, the Paradise Quarry. It is the largest and certainly the most spectacular, thanks to its lush vegetation made up of orange trees, cedars, lemon trees, palms, caper plants, and prickly pears. It feels like an enchanted place of extraordinary natural beauty. Only part of the quarry can be visited today, but this was once the place where the largest stone blocks were extracted, and in some sections it reaches the remarkable depth of 45 metres.
The caves and the Ear of Dionysius
Piero: right inside the Paradise Quarry there are three large cavities that represent three of the most important attractions of the Neapolis Archaeological Park. They are the Ear of Dionysius, the Grotta dei Cordari, and the Grotta del Salnitro.
Angela: the Grotta del Salnitro takes its name from the colour of its walls, which resemble the shades of the mineral itself. It is not a natural cave, because it was created after a collapse occurred within the latomie, when the fallen rocks accumulated and gave rise to its formation.
Piero: the Grotta dei Cordari is particularly fascinating and is also an artificial cave. It takes its name from the craftsmen who, from the Middle Ages until the last century, produced ropes here using natural fibres, taking advantage of the natural humidity of this unique place.
Angela: we now arrive at the most famous of these cavities, the Ear of Dionysius. It is a truly impressive cave: its height is 20 metres at the entrance and increases inside up to 35 metres. Its width varies between 5 and 11 metres, and it extends 65 metres deep into the rock.
Piero: this too is an artificial cave, with a unique shape and a very particular acoustic effect. It was precisely by combining these two features that Caravaggio gave it its name. Its shape, in fact, resembles an ear, while thanks to its extraordinary acoustics, the most famous tyrant of Syracuse could listen to the conversations of his prisoners, amplified by the echo. According to legend, Dionysius had his prisoners locked inside this cave, fully aware of its remarkable acoustic properties, while from a small opening he could listen to their conversations without being seen. Of course, if anyone said something inappropriate or was plotting against him, the tyrant would discover it… and their fate was certainly not a pleasant one.
Angela: it is definitely worth experiencing the echo of this cave once you enter. It is not uncommon to hear shouts and whistles that allow you to truly appreciate its extraordinary acoustics.
The Greek Theatre
Piero: after leaving the Ear of Dionysius, we reach the true heart of the Neapolis Archaeological Park: the Greek Theatre.
Angela: a true wonder that seems to unite the sea and the sky!
Piero: this is one of the most impressive and famous theatres of the ancient Greek world. It was built by carving it directly into the rock (which is perhaps the reason why it has been preserved so well) and probably dates back to the 5th century BC. Its current appearance, however, is mainly due to the tyrant Hieron II, who embellished and completed it during the 3rd century BC.
Angela: the cavea has a diameter of about 140 metres, making it one of the largest in the entire Greek world. Originally, it had 67 rows of seats, capable of accommodating well over 10,000 spectators. The stage must have been truly magnificent, made even more spectacular by the surrounding landscape and the natural play of sunlight.
Piero: to admire its beauty and grandeur, there are several possibilities. To immediately appreciate it as a whole, it is best to reach the lower part of the theatre. The steps are remarkably well preserved, while the areas dedicated to the actual performances have survived less completely. From this viewpoint, the extraordinary majesty of this ancient masterpiece is immediately clear.
Angela: the other option to admire the Greek Theatre of Syracuse is to view it from above. You can reach this viewpoint by following a dirt path. I strongly recommend making a stop about halfway along the route, where a passage provides access to the different sections of the seating area. Here you can admire up close the stone steps with the names of the various sections written in Greek.
Piero: following the same path, we reach the highest point of the theatre. From here, once again, we can admire the entire Greek Theatre in all its grandeur, together with the Bay of Syracuse and the Great Harbour. Looking towards the east, you can clearly see the impressive dome of the Basilica of Our Lady of Tears.
Angela: every year, during the months of May and June, the classical performances take place at the Greek Theatre of Syracuse. The ancient Greek tragedies and comedies are brought to life once again, featuring the works of the great classical authors. It is an extremely important event for Syracuse, one that has been held for more than a century.
Piero: I had the pleasure of attending one of these performances, and I can assure you that it is truly spectacular!
Angela: from this same viewpoint, with your back to the theatre, you can see a fountain: this is the Nymphaeum Cave. It was most likely the headquarters of the artists’ guild, where the actors gathered before entering the theatre to perform.
Piero: in this area, on both sides, there are numerous caves and niches carved into the rock. They date back to the Christian period and were used as family tombs. Alongside these, there are also many rectangular openings carved into the stone, which were used to hold small votive paintings dedicated to the cult of heroes, following a tradition that was common in the Greek world.
The Ara of Hieron
Angela: at this point, we retrace our path and head towards the lower part of the park, in the direction of the exit. Here, another impressive monumental work awaits us: the Altar of Hieron.
Piero: what remains today is almost entirely the base, because the upper structure was almost completely removed in the 16th century to be reused in the construction of the city’s Spanish fortifications.
Angela: the altar commissioned by the tyrant Hieron II, as part of his work to complete the Neapolis, was dedicated to Zeus Eleutherios, meaning “the Liberator”. In his honour, the Eleutheria festival was celebrated, featuring the sacrifice of as many as 450 bulls at a time. This altar was probably the largest in the Greek world, considering that its base was about 200 metres long and 22 metres wide. The entrance was decorated with two telamons, of which only the feet of the right one remain today.
The Roman Amphitheatre
Piero: next to the Altar of Hieron, we find the final monument of our journey through the Neapolis Archaeological Park: the Roman Amphitheatre.
Angela: equally impressive and with an elliptical shape, it measures 190 metres in length and 90 metres in width. It was carved into the rock on three sides, with the exception of the southern side. Just like the Altar of Hieron, many of the large stone blocks that formed the structure were removed in the 16th century by the Spanish, who reused them to build the defensive bastions of the island of Ortigia.
Piero: this amphitheatre is certainly one of the largest still existing and the largest in Sicily. In the centre of the structure, you can see the remains of a large underground area that was used for machinery. Its exact dating is uncertain, but it probably dates back to the Augustan age, with later modifications carried out in subsequent periods.
See you soon, Syracuse…
Angela: the Neapolis Archaeological Park is truly extraordinary and a magnificent symbol of the ancient splendour of Syracuse. Let’s take another look at everything we have discovered in this video:
Piero: it is a real shame, however, to see the clear organisational and management shortcomings that have a negative impact on visitors. The maintenance is often not worthy of the extraordinary historical and architectural value of these sites, and it is disappointing that, at certain times, some areas of the park cannot be accessed.
Angela: despite everything, the park and the entire city are a fantastic destination for anyone who wants to discover the charm of a thousand-year-old history. With this visit, our time in Syracuse comes to an end.
Alberto: but I ask you to promise that you will come back! Syracuse has much more to offer beyond Ortigia and the Neapolis Archaeological Park. And above all, you still haven’t seen its sea and its beautiful beaches.
Angela: we will definitely come back!
The wonder of Ortigia
Discover the magic of Ortigia, the historic heart of Syracuse in Sicily. Walk through ancient Greek temples, Baroque squares, the Cathedral built on the Temple of Athena, the Arethusa Spring and Maniace Castle. A fascinating journey through myths, history and Mediterranean cultures, where ancient ruins, breathtaking views and charming streets reveal the timeless beauty of this extraordinary island.
Alberto: welcome back, guys! How strange to have you here in Sicily at this time of year...
Angela: thank you! We decided to spend a few days in this wonderful land between Christmas and New Year’s Eve. What do you think?
Alberto: I’d say it’s an absolutely perfect choice! If the weather is kind to us, we’ll have plenty of amazing places to see and lots of fun ahead.
Piero: the climate is often mild even at this time of year in Sicily. We probably won’t go swimming or spend our days on the beach, but we’ll visit some truly enchanting places, walking around in temperatures that could even reach 20°C (68°F).
Angela: who says you can only visit Sicily in summer? I think coming here in winter is a wonderful idea, because we can enjoy this amazing region without the tourists that crowd it during the summer months.
Alberto: I can see you’re excited! All that’s left is to pick up your van as soon as you leave the airport and begin our adventure!
Piero: we’d love to spend a few days exploring the southeastern part of Sicily, between the provinces of Ragusa and Syracuse.
Angela: let’s go then! I’m starting the engine…
Here we are in Syracuse!
Alberto: just over 45 minutes from Catania, we reach Syracuse via the motorway, which will be our base for the next three days of exploration.
Angela: we arrive just after lunch. We have just enough time to collect the keys to our apartments, unpack our luggage, and we’re ready for our first outing.
Piero: we park our van, because we won’t need it anymore today. Our destination is Ortigia, the most charming district of Syracuse. It covers just over one square kilometre and is incredibly easy to explore on foot.
Alberto: you really don’t waste a single minute, do you?
Piero: as always! This time, though, we have an extra reason. While it’s true that Sicily is beautiful even in winter, it’s also true that at these latitudes the daylight fades early, with the sun setting at around 5:00 p.m.
Alberto: let the adventure begin!
Ortigia nella storia
Angela: Ortigia is a small island located at the south-eastern tip of Syracuse, now connected to the mainland by two bridges.
Piero: Ortigia has always been the true heart of the city. Archaeological evidence shows that it was already inhabited during the Bronze Age. Thanks above all to its abundant freshwater, the area was considered an ideal place to settle and build a thriving community. Its greatest period of splendour undoubtedly came during the Greek era. In those days, Ortigia was the city's main political and religious centre. The Sacred Way was built here, lined with magnificent temples such as the Artemision and the Athenaion, now incorporated into the present-day Cathedral of Syracuse. Even the name Syracuse is thought to date back to this period, possibly deriving from the ancient Greek word Sirókos, meaning "abundance of water."
Angela: the Palace of the Tyrant, the residence of Syracuse’s ruler, was also built on the island. Historical accounts describe it as an impressive complex, especially during the reign of Dionysius I. He even ordered the entire population of Ortigia to leave the island, replacing them with his court, friends, and mercenaries. The same ruler also surrounded Ortigia with its own independent fortifications. Plato wrote about the palace's extraordinary wealth and beauty, describing vast gardens and a series of increasingly restricted areas protected by massive walls. At its very centre stood a small island, separated from the rest of the palace by a canal crossed by a drawbridge, which only Dionysius himself could raise or lower, ensuring complete security. Sadly, the palace was later completely destroyed, and today no trace of it remains.
Piero: Ortigia is still home to the city's two historic harbours—the Great Harbour and the Small Harbour—which have always played a crucial role in the island’s development and were at the centre of many of Syracuse’s greatest battles.
Angela: Ortigia was the last district of Syracuse to fall into the hands of Rome during the war against Carthage. Throughout the siege, its harbour proved essential because it was through here that Carthage, allied with Syracuse, supplied the city with reinforcements and provisions. Thanks to the support of the Carthaginian fleet and the brilliant war machines designed by Archimedes, the Syracusans resisted the Roman army for a long time, forcing it to remain outside the city's mighty walls. After the Festival of Artemis, however, taking advantage of the exhausted defenders and the betrayal of a citizen who secretly opened the gates, the Romans finally entered the city and conquered it district by district.
Piero: here’s an interesting fact: Archimedes was accidentally killed by a Roman soldier. The Roman commander, Marcus Claudius Marcellus, was deeply shocked by the death of the famous mathematician, and according to tradition, he even wept over both Archimedes and the fate of the magnificent city his army had just conquered. A few years later, at the beginning of the 2nd century BC, Marcellus ordered that no one should settle in Ortigia, probably because he feared that its strategic position could make it the perfect place for a future rebellion against Roman rule.
Angela: despite the conquest, Syracuse remained one of the most important cities of Roman Sicily, becoming the seat of the island’s Roman governors, who were probably housed in a rebuilt version of the ancient Palace of the Tyrants.
Piero: together with Syracuse, Ortigia followed all the major events of Sicilian history after the fall of the Roman Empire. One of its most significant periods came under Spanish rule. Architects commissioned by the rulers of Castile and Aragon transformed the island with magnificent Baroque architecture, creating a unique blend of Sicilian and Spanish art. Together with nearby Noto, Ortigia became one of the greatest symbols of Sicilian Baroque.
Angela: you're forgetting one final and very important detail, one that connects Ortigia to another place you hold very dear.
Piero: exactly! Ortigia has a remarkably strong connection with the Greek island of Delos. In ancient times, both islands were known as Ortigia. Delos later adopted its current name because of the myth surrounding the birth of Apollo, the god of the Sun, and Artemis, the goddess of the hunt. Many ancient poets celebrated the bond between the two Ortigias, highlighting their similarities and describing our Ortigia as the worthy sister of the famous island in the Cyclades.
Angela: just like the Greek island, its name is believed to derive from the abundance of quails, known as Ortighes by the ancient Greeks. However, no one knows which of the two islands first received this name—a small mystery that makes this extraordinary place even more fascinating.
Walking around the island
Alberto: everything you've told us is enough to make anyone fall in love with this enchanting place. Ortigia is truly unique, where all the different cultures and souls of the Mediterranean blend together in perfect harmony. You'll discover an endless succession of palaces, courtyards, and churches, followed by ancient temples, castles, and fountains, creating a magnificent mosaic that perfectly captures the very essence of Sicily. Its glowing white limestone, shining under the sun, is already a breathtaking sight, but experiencing Ortigia during the magical Christmas season makes it even more charming.
Angela: we reach Ortigia by crossing the Umbertino Bridge, which connects the island to the mainland.
Piero: after crossing the bridge, you immediately arrive at the site of the Temple of Apollo, where only a few impressive columns remain today. This is the first great symbol of the Greek period and another testament to Ortigia’s strong connection with Delos, through the worship of Apollo, the god of the Sun. Construction began as early as the 6th century BC, and over the centuries the temple underwent many transformations, serving at different times as both a church and a mosque. Although only a small part of it survives today, it is still enough to reveal its ancient grandeur.
Angela: our walk continues towards Piazza Archimede, named after the great mathematician from Syracuse. The square is surrounded by beautiful historic palaces, but its true highlight is the magnificent Fountain of Artemis standing proudly at its centre.
Piero: the Fountain of Artemis depicts the goddess of the hunt and recalls the famous myth of Alpheus and Arethusa. According to the legend, the river god Alpheus fell in love with Arethusa, the favourite among the nymphs of Artemis, the patron goddess of Syracuse. Since Arethusa did not return his love, she called upon Artemis for help. The goddess wrapped her in a cloud to hide her and transformed her into a spring. I won’t say anything more for now, because we’ll soon come across that very spring ourselves.
Angela: we are now approaching the heart of the island and perhaps the most beautiful part of our walk: Piazza Duomo. It is one of the greatest symbols of Syracuse, because it represents both the city’s ancient splendour and its more recent rebirth, with its magnificent new Baroque appearance. The square has a beautiful curved shape and is truly breathtaking, thanks also to the extraordinary play of light and shadows that creates unforgettable views. We reach it from Via Roma, and almost without realizing it, we are suddenly amazed by the majesty of the Cathedral of Syracuse.
Piero: what is now the Cathedral of Syracuse was originally a temple dedicated to Athena, dating back to the 5th century BC. Its transformation into a Christian basilica gave it the appearance we see today, with its magnificent Baroque façade, while still preserving many traces of its ancient past. In fact, one of the things that makes the Cathedral so extraordinary is the presence of the original columns of the Greek temple, which have survived 2,500 years of history, invasions, and even the devastating earthquake of 1693. It is still astonishing to find, within the same building, traces of Byzantine, Arab, Norman, and Spanish cultures. All these civilizations continued to make this place a sacred site, until it became the first Christian church in Europe.
Alberto: it’s a shame we didn’t manage to visit the Church of Santa Lucia, the patron saint of Syracuse, which houses a masterpiece by Caravaggio depicting the Burial of Saint Lucy. Another place not to be missed is the Artemision, the ancient Greek temple dedicated to Artemis, located beneath Palazzo Vermexio, the current seat of the City Hall.
Angela: we leave the square now and head towards the sea, where another great symbol of Ortigia and of all Syracuse awaits us: the Arethusa Spring.
Piero: it is a freshwater pool where lush papyrus plants grow. To explain the presence of fresh water just a few steps from the sea, the ancient Greeks turned to the very myth of the nymph Arethusa that I told you about earlier. Inside the spring, papyrus grows naturally, making it one of the very few papyrus groves in Europe.
Angela: from the spring, with its wonderful garden, it is possible to admire the breathtaking spectacle of the sunset. As the sun goes down, the face of Ortigia begins to turn pink, then orange, until it reaches a deep red, making the entire atmosphere even more fascinating.
Alberto: in this wonderful setting, we enjoy a pleasant walk along the seafront that leads from the Arethusa Spring to Maniace Castle.
Piero: the castle is an important testimony to the medieval history of Ortigia and takes its name from the Byzantine general George Maniakes. Unfortunately, during our visit, the interior of the castle was closed (it is only open in the morning). We therefore limited ourselves to walking along the pathway around the castle, which offered us more breathtaking views of the sea and of the island of Ortigia.
Going back home…
Angela: what can we say… we have discovered yet another Sicilian gem! Ortigia is a wonderful example of what we love most: exploration, history, culture, and breathtaking views!
Alberto: before heading back, it is definitely worth taking a walk through the narrow streets of the island. It is yet another way to discover its charm. Believe me, every time I come back here, I discover something new!
Piero: and perhaps we can stop for dinner in one of the many charming restaurants to taste some delicious local specialities.
Alberto: great idea! Let’s refresh ourselves and get some rest, because our exploration of Syracuse continues…
Angela: in the meantime, enjoy the wonder of everything we have seen in this video!
Taormina
Taormina is truly one of a kind: a beautiful medieval village that takes your breath away simply by strolling along its streets and alleys, admiring the stunning panorama with the crystal-clear sea and Mount Etna in the background. Taormina is both beauty and culture, a place where “you find everything that seems created on earth to captivate the eyes, the mind, and the imagination.”
Alberto: it’s time to start the van, guys! We need to continue our journey discovering Sicily.
Angela: we’re ready! What’s our next destination?
Alberto: we’re moving from one symbol of Sicily to another: from the iconic mountain, Mount Etna, to perhaps the most famous seaside town in Sicily in the world.
Piero: I imagine you’re referring to Taormina.
Angela: exactly. It may not be the most original destination, but you can’t go to Sicily without taking a stroll through Taormina.
Alberto: you’ll see, it won’t disappoint you; Taormina isn’t just about glamour—there you’ll find all the elements you look for in your travels!
Angela: let’s go then! I’m starting the engine…
Taormina, here we come!
Alberto: once again, we’re heading towards Catania: it will take just over an hour to reach Taormina. We’ll travel almost the entire route on the motorway: the A20 towards Messina, then the A18 towards Catania, and we exit right at Taormina.
Angela: how should we plan our day?
Alberto: before reaching Taormina, I was thinking about a stop at the beach. Not just any beach, though—one of the most beautiful of all: the one facing Isola Bella!
Angela: fantastic! I can’t wait to get there…
Alberto: you’ll need a little patience: getting there isn’t difficult, but parking can be quite a challenge. Illegal parking is not advisable (a fine is almost certain!), so it’s better to rely on one of the many private parking areas (and not exactly cheap) along the road.
Isola bella
Angela: the view from the road is already enchanting: a wonderful little island, lush with vegetation, surrounded by crystal-clear sea.
Piero: it’s a very unique island: depending on the tides, a thin strip of sand can directly connect it to the mainland.
Alberto: we reach Isola Bella by walking along the short path from the beach. Today the water level is particularly low and allows us to walk on dry sand. On days of high tide, however, the water rarely rises above the knees.
Piero: the island owes its name to the German baron Wilhelm von Gloeden, who introduced this “pearl,” as he called it, and all of Taormina to the world through his photography.
Angela: to access the island, you pay a modest entrance ticket: it’s absolutely worth it!
Piero: the first historical references to the islet date back to 1806, when Ferdinand I of Bourbon, King of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, donated it to the Municipality of Taormina. Around 1890, the island was purchased by a wealthy English noblewoman, Florence Trevelyan, who had been exiled to Sicily by Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom because of her relationship with her cousin, the future King Edward VII. It is precisely to Florence Trevelyan that the island owes its present beauty: she introduced various species of exotic and tropical plants, which blended with the native Mediterranean vegetation, creating a unique environment and landscape. From Mrs. Trevelyan’s heirs, the island was sold in 1938 to the Bosurgi family, well-known industrialists from Messina. Circumventing a building ban imposed by the municipality, they managed to construct a house nestled among the rocks and covered with dense vegetation. Following the bankruptcy of the family businesses, the island was put up for auction and, after several legal disputes, in 1992 it was purchased by the Sicilian Region, becoming part of the public state property.
Angela: during our visit, we can truly admire all its splendor as the result of its history: on one side, the richness of the flora with the stunning crystal-clear sea as a backdrop; on the other, this maze of structures carved into the rock, with a series of overlapping rooms and terraces, connected by internal and external staircases, vaults, and hidden passageways lined with stone. All of it in perfect harmony between nature and architecture.
Alberto: once our visit to the island is over, we cool off with a fantastic swim in this wonderful sea.
Piero: while we soak up some sun on the beach, we’re drawn to the many signs offering short boat tours along the coast and around the island. The prices are relatively low, and the promise of seeing the beauty of this sea from another perspective easily wins us over.
Angela: a small boat takes us to discover the surrounding caves, such as the Blue Grotto and the Shell Grotto, as well as the entire Bay of Naxos. Sailing around the island is a truly wonderful experience, especially combined with a refreshing swim near the sea stacks. Once again, it’s absolutely worth it!
And now Taormina…
Alberto: it’s time to leave the beach and the sea behind and head towards Taormina to spend our afternoon there.
Piero: this gem, perhaps one of the most famous tourist destinations in Sicily, stands on a hill 200 meters above sea level, like a natural terrace on Mount Tauro, on the southern slopes of the Peloritani Mountains along the Ionian coast. Suspended between rocks and sea, an enchanting landscape awaits us—unique for its variety and contrasts—together with a historical and cultural heritage of the highest value.
Alberto: Taormina is truly one of a kind: a beautiful medieval village that takes your breath away simply by strolling along its streets and alleys, admiring the stunning panorama with the crystal-clear sea and Mount Etna in the background.
Piero: it’s precisely because of this sense of wonder that Johann Wolfgang von Goethe described it as “a strip of paradise on earth,” while Guy de Maupassant spoke of Taormina as a place where “you find everything that seems created on earth to seduce the eyes, the mind, and the imagination.”
Angela: here’s our first useful tip: Taormina is practically a pedestrian area, so parking in the town itself is impossible. Visitors can use two paid public parking lots. The first, closer to the motorway, is Lumbi; from there, a staircase leads directly into town near Porta Messina. The second parking area is called Porta Catania: from Lumbi, you pass through the tunnel under Mount Tauro and reach the town from the opposite side, right at Porta Catania. This second parking lot is much larger and is also equipped with spacious elevators that take you directly into the city center.
Taormina through history
Piero: beauty and culture, as we said. There are many traces and testimonies of a past long before Taormina became an important center of Magna Graecia. At Naxos, by the sea, the Greeks founded their first settlement; after being expelled by Dionysius, they took refuge on this bull-shaped rock. From this and the toponym given to it, Tauromenion, the name Taormina likely originates. It remained under Hellenistic influence until the Roman conquest. After the Arab domination, Taormina followed the fate of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.
Angela: the most important testimony of its past is undoubtedly its ancient theater, the second largest in Sicily, after the one in Syracuse. This is exactly where our excursion begins.
Piero: the original structure dates back, like in Syracuse, to the 3rd century BC, when the Greeks chose this dramatic promontory for their dramatic and musical performances. The theater was later modified and expanded by the Romans in the 2nd century AD, transforming the stage and orchestra into an arena where gladiator combats took place.
Angela: walking inside the theater is a truly unique experience, so much so that you feel suspended between heaven and earth, fully savoring the historical significance of this ancient architectural marvel. From the top of the stone-carved seating, following the natural concavity of the hill, you enjoy a magnificent panorama of the coast with Mount Etna in the background. Its perfect acoustics still allow it to host various concerts and cultural events during the summer season.
Walking through Taormina
Alberto: after finishing our visit to the theater, we head back towards Porta Messina; from here begins Corso Umberto I, the main street of Taormina.
Piero: the Corso connects the city from north to south, from Porta Messina to Porta Catania. It follows a route dating back to the Greco-Roman era and crosses the entire historic center.
Angela: walking along this elegant street, always crowded with tourists, it’s easy to get lost among the many shops: from luxury brands to beautifully displayed local gastronomy, from souvenirs to ceramics, from handicrafts to jewelry.
Piero: the buildings along the street are examples of the different architectural styles that have succeeded each other over time. It’s truly enjoyable to admire the splendid facades and balconies decorated with ceramics and plants of all kinds. Adding to this are medieval churches, ancient ruins, and breathtaking views.
Angela: on either side of the main street, there are numerous alleys, many of them truly picturesque. Along the Corso, you also come across three squares: Piazza IX Aprile, Piazza Duomo, and Piazza Vittorio Emanuele.
Piero: Piazza Duomo houses the city’s cathedral, dedicated to Saint Nicholas, with an appearance so austere that it resembles a fortress. Opposite stands the Baroque fountain, featuring at its center the symbol of Taormina: the crowned centaur, holding the world in its left hand and the scepter of authority in its right.
Angela: Piazza IX Aprile is instead the symbol of Taormina’s social life; it is truly a terrace overlooking the sea, offering a unique panorama of the coast, Giardini Naxos, and Mount Etna. It is certainly the most famous square, lined with numerous outdoor cafés, the Baroque church of San Giuseppe, the Gothic church of Sant’Agostino, and the Clock Tower, or Porta di Mezzo, whose arch leads into the old town. There are also many portrait artists creating true works of art on the spot.
Piero: a curiosity: the square was originally dedicated to Sant’Agostino; the current name refers to the Garibaldian epic. On April 9, 1860, the news of Garibaldi and the Thousand landing at Marsala to liberate Sicily from the Bourbons reached Taormina. The news was obviously false, as the landing took place a month later, but Taormina chose to dedicate its most beautiful square to the memory of that date.
Heading home…
Alberto: our long day in Taormina ends here. But before heading back home, why not enjoy a typical Sicilian dinner?
Piero: Taormina is full of restaurants where you can eat really well. The risk of overspending is high, as is the risk of finding overly touristic restaurants that offer little authentic local cuisine.
Angela: we decide to move a little away from the town center and find a charming place to enjoy our dinner.
Alberto: it’s the Trattoria Chicchirichì, located along the road to Castelmola, above Taormina. It’s not the easiest to find, but it’s definitely worth the visit.
Piero: the location is carefully curated, and the menu is very interesting, reflecting the entire culinary culture of the area. The husband-and-wife team runs it skillfully, welcoming guests with great friendliness. The quality-to-price ratio is exceptional.
Angela: the almond wine tasting is an absolute must!
Piero: at this point, it’s truly time to head home. Surely tired, but happy and satisfied.
Angela: Taormina truly lives up to its reputation as a gem of Sicilian tourism! You certainly can’t say you know Sicily without visiting it at least once…
Piero: let’s try to relive all its beauty in this short video.
Her majesty Mount Etna
A wonderful adventure, discovering a unique place and a truly remarkable environment. Sicily is not only about the sea and history, but also about mountains—and the mountain par excellence: Mount Etna. Stunning is the alternation of colors of lava stone, forests, and native plant species, combined with the charm of fire and the snow that often covers the volcano’s summit in winter.
Alberto: here I am again with you, guys! Are you ready to continue our journey to discover Sicily?
Angela: always ready! Where are you taking us this time?
Alberto: no sea this time either. In fact, I thought I’d take you to visit the true king of the mountains: Her Majesty Mount Etna!
Piero: are you the one telling the kids they won’t see the sea?
Alberto: don’t worry, you’ll see they’ll be happy! For them too it will be a wonderful adventure, discovering a place and an unique environment that is truly extraordinary.
Angela: let’s start the van then and head off to discover Mount Etna!
All aboard!
Alberto: we’re heading a bit farther once again, towards Catania: it will take about two hours to reach our destination. We’ll cover most of the journey on the motorway: first the A20 towards Messina, then the A18 towards Catania. We exit at Giarre and from there continue along the provincial roads; about forty kilometers that will lead us to Zafferana Etnea and finally to Rifugio Sapienza, in the municipality of Nicolosi.
Piero: our ascent follows the south-eastern slope of the volcano. Even from the motorway, you can sense the sheer majesty of this volcano, rising from the sea and gradually reaching its 3,342 meters above sea level, without belonging to any mountain range.
Angela: when planning a day on Mount Etna, you need to be ready for any situation. Especially for the kids, it’s advisable to bring sweatshirts and a rain jacket: we’ll reach 2,000 meters, and even in the summer months it’s not uncommon to encounter relatively low temperatures; the wind is always a major presence up here. Comfortable shoes are a must, preferably trekking shoes: the walks aren’t extremely difficult, but lava rocks and volcanic ash can be uncomfortable.
Piero: we set off early in the morning to reach our destination. We organize everything in advance for a wonderful picnic in one of the equipped areas: we choose Rifugio Monte Vetore, just a few kilometers beyond Rifugio Sapienza.
Alberto: it’s a very well-equipped area, perfect for spending a few hours in complete relaxation, with everything you need for a picnic. There are also wide open spaces for your kids, where they can start becoming familiar with the Etna environment and with lava stone.
Angela: truly beautiful! Next time we could even think about organizing a barbecue!
Alberto: relaxed, satisfied, and happy after our picnic, we’re now ready for the most beautiful and important part of our day.
Angela: we stopped briefly for a short break and a morning coffee: now it’s time to head back to Rifugio Sapienza. We are exactly at 1,910 meters above sea level.
Piero: this refuge represents the highest point reachable by car and public transport. Its design dates back to the Fascist period and was completed in the immediate post-war years: it was meant to be a starting point for mountaineers climbing toward the central crater of the volcano. From its original role as a road maintenance house, the refuge—managed by the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) and named after a member who died in the war, Giovannino Sapienza—today offers visitors several dozen rooms and a restaurant.
Alberto: over the years, it has repeatedly risked being overwhelmed by Etna’s eruptions, as lava flows have often come very close without ever destroying it—unlike the cable car facilities, which have been rebuilt several times. In particular, the 2001 eruption reached just a few meters from the building, and the traces are still clearly visible today.
Angela: all the parking areas around the site are paid but reasonably priced; there are also other bars, refreshment points, and the inevitable shopping area. Right next to the refuge, on either side, you’ll find the mountain guides’ hut and the departure point of the Etna cable car.
Alberto: the cable car is the starting point for the most beautiful excursions to discover the volcano and to get closer to the summit craters. The cost is certainly significant, especially for a family: it ranges from about €30 per person for a round trip up to 2,500 meters—the cable car’s arrival point—to about €90 per person for the full excursion including cable car, 4x4 vehicle, and guide, allowing you to approach the summit area at around 2,900 meters, near Torre del Filosofo, just a few hundred meters from the South-East Crater.
Discovering her majesty…
Angela: I know you’re eager, Piero, you still haven’t told us anything about the volcano.
Piero: I couldn’t wait! That it is the highest active volcano in Europe and in the entire Eurasian Plate is well known. It is also known by the name Mongibello. Sicilians often refer to the volcano in the feminine form, expressing a relationship similar to the one with a mother: it’s not uncommon to hear it simply called “a muntagna,” the mountain par excellence. The etymology of its names is further evidence of the many dominations that have followed one another throughout the island’s history. The term Etna probably derives from classical Greek (from aitho, meaning “to burn”); the name Mongibello may come from the union of the Latin and Arabic words for mountain: mons and jebel; or perhaps from Mulciber, “the one who softens and governs fire,” one of the names the Romans used for the god Vulcan.
Angela: extraordinary already in its name. For its beauty and uniqueness, since 2013 UNESCO has included Mount Etna in the list of World Heritage Sites. The alternation of colors—from lava stone to forests and native plant species—blends with the charm of fire and snow, which in winter often covers the summit. Climbing Etna, you pass from citrus groves and vineyards in the fertile countryside to dense woodlands, and finally to the barren, almost lunar landscape near the crater, where the scent of broom flowers fills the air.
Alberto: over time, the frequent eruptions have sometimes profoundly reshaped the surrounding landscape, and on many occasions have posed a threat to the settlements built along its slopes. Even the volcano’s height has changed several times over the years: in the last century alone it has fluctuated between 3,250 and 3,350 meters. Most recently, on July 25, 2021, a new measurement taken with high-precision instruments identified the highest summit of the volcano at the South-East Crater, reaching 3,357 meters—the greatest height ever recorded.
Angela: today the volcano features as many as 300 craters, cones, and eruptive fissures. However, only four are currently active: the summit craters—the Voragine and the Bocca Nuova, both inside the central crater, along with the North-East Crater and the South-East Crater.
Piero: clearly, such a unique place could not escape the interest of Greek and Roman mythology; myth, together with popular beliefs, sought to explain the volcano’s behavior and its frequent eruptions by placing gods and giants at the center of the story. We begin, of course, with Vulcan, the god of fire, who was believed to have his forge right beneath Mount Etna; then there is Aeolus, who was said to keep the winds, over which he ruled, imprisoned under the volcano. We also told the story of the giant Enceladus, who rebelled against the gods and, defeated by Athena, was buried under an enormous mass of earth that gave rise to Sicily: Etna would breathe fire with every cry of the giant. Finally, the underworld of the Greeks was believed to be located beneath Etna. According to a more modern English legend, the soul of Queen Elizabeth I is said to dwell inside Etna, due to a pact she supposedly made with the devil in exchange for help in ruling her kingdom.
The Silvestri Craters
Alberto: clearly, not everyone can undertake excursions to the summit craters. As we mentioned, they are relatively expensive and certainly demanding, especially for those traveling with kids. But don’t worry—the Etna still offers the wonder of its craters at easily accessible heights near Rifugio Sapienza: I’m talking about the Silvestri Craters.
Angela: they are certainly the most visited craters and the first ones you encounter when approaching the refuge. These are the five craters formed during the 1892 eruption. They are all fairly easy to reach and to climb; one in particular, the one closest to the road, can be easily walked all around its summit, and you can even go inside it. It’s perfectly suitable for young children, of course when accompanied. Some of the craters have slightly more challenging and tiring paths, although still manageable for those like us, who are not experienced climbers.
Piero: the view from the summit of the craters is absolutely breathtaking, thanks to the striking color contrasts: the various shades of black and red of the lava rock and minerals, the green patches of plants bravely trying to grow here and there; and then the deep blue sky, interrupted by the eruption’s smoke plume. It’s an environment where silence is broken only by the whistling wind, which moves in a mesmerizing way the few plants daring to challenge the harsh lava landscape.
Angela: this short video captures the wonder of these places.
Heading back home…
Alberto: reluctantly, the time has come to leave this wonderful place, which will undoubtedly remain in our memories.
Piero: it’s one of the symbols of Sicily, both for its majesty and for the striking contrasts that are typical of this magnificent land.
Alberto: I suggest an alternative route for our journey back home: we could avoid the motorways by driving around the volcano. We could take the Circumetnea to the right, passing through Linguaglossa, or to the left towards Bronte; in either case, we could stop in Randazzo for a delicious granita or an ice cream at the famous Musumeci pastry shop, then continue to Floresta and Montalbano Elicona, from where we would reach Milazzo.
Piero: I imagine it’s enchanting, but by now it’s late, and the journey alone would take about three hours.
Angela: it would be a real shame not to enjoy the wonders of the Etna villages and the other places you mention. It will definitely be for another time, but we will surely do it!
Piero: even for the kids, seeing Etna up close is a wonderful discovery. Their excitement is ours too. We have appreciated the beauty of the landscape along with the spectacle that nature is able to offer.
The Scala dei Turchi
A truly spectacular stretch of coast, where nature has played the role of a masterful artist: over time, it has shaped the coastline with the help of the sea and wind, gradually smoothing the edges and making it softly sinuous, until forming these wonderful terraces! And the sea, taking advantage of this pure, dazzling white, displays the most intense shades of blue and azure…
Piero: Hi Alberto, here we are again!
Alberto: ready to continue our journey discovering Sicily?
Angela: of course! That’s why we’re here…
Alberto: until now, we’ve stayed close to our “base” in Milazzo: all the destinations were reached in a day, with at most an hour of driving.
Piero: what do you have in mind this time?
Angela: should I be worried?
Alberto: I’d say no, or at least not too much. You’ll have to pack your bags again, because I plan to take you for two days on the opposite side of the island: to discover two true Sicilian gems!
Piero: you’re keeping us on the edge of our seats; I’ll start the van in the meantime…
Alberto: perfect! Our first stop will be the Scala dei Turchi!
Angela: what a spectacle! Let’s go then…
On the way to the Scala dei Turchi
Piero: I have to say that from Milazzo it’s not exactly easy to reach the Scala dei Turchi, which is located in Realmonte, in the province of Agrigento, not far from Porto Empedocle — so right on the opposite side of the island from us. On board our van, we’ll cover a full three hundred kilometres, which will take roughly three hours.
Alberto: we have two alternatives, but they don’t differ much in terms of distance or duration. We can go towards Palermo on the A20, exit at Buonfornello to take the A19 towards Catania until the Caltanissetta junction; from here we continue on State Road 640 to Agrigento, then proceed to Porto Empedocle; from there, continuing for 5 kilometres along the State Road 115 by the sea, we reach Punta Grande, where parking is available to reach the beaches around the Scala dei Turchi on foot.
Piero: the alternative is to take the A20 towards Messina, then continue on the A18 towards Catania; once past the Etna city, take the A19 towards Palermo, exiting again at Caltanissetta.
Angela: either way, it’s still three hours by van… thankfully, we’re going to see some amazing places!
Here we are in Realmonte!
Alberto: parking won’t be easy, nor too cheap; there are plenty of parking lots to choose from, and honestly, one is as good as another. The alternative would be a nearly certain fine for wild parking…
Piero: once we leave the van, we have a short walk to get closer to the Scala dei Turchi. We chose a spot at one of the beach resorts on Majata Beach: it will be useful for relaxing, having a bite to eat, and taking a nice swim.
Alberto: the walk on the fine sand is also pleasant and lasts about ten minutes; of course, be careful of the heat during the summer months.
Angela: obviously, if you come like us with children and teenagers, it’s better to be prepared with water and rock shoes — you never know…
Piero: arriving at the foot of the Scala, the spectacle is truly unique! It feels like standing in front of a real iceberg.
Alberto: we visited it when it was still possible to access it directly.
Piero: the Scala dei Turchi takes its name from the Saracen pirates, wrongly called Turks by the local populations, who in the 1500s landed on this particular rock formation to plunder coastal villages. The stepped cliff became a real staircase, making it easier for the pirates to land from the sea, especially in a spot sheltered from the wind and probably less monitored. The staircase has a wavy and irregular shape, with smooth, rounded lines; it is made of marl, a sedimentary rock partly clayey and partly calcareous, with its characteristic pure white colour due to the presence of fossils and marine microorganisms. Beyond its natural beauty, the site is also significant from a geological point of view.
Angela: It’s not really the time to venture into topics we don’t fully understand. Geopop helps us with this, explaining very well how the Scala was formed in this wonderful video: https://www.facebook.com/geologiapop/posts/976191856542034.
Piero: wonderful! And our images are even included — did you notice that?
Angela: the walk along the steps is truly fascinating: the eye is drawn to the striking contrast between the pure white of the cliff and the blue of the magnificent sea below.
Piero: being one of the most sought-after tourist destinations in all of Sicily, the Scala attracts millions of visitors. However, the excessive footfall at this site poses a threat, compounded by neglect and poor supervision. For all these reasons, it is necessary to protect it, either by limiting the number of visitors or even by prohibiting direct access altogether. It would also be appropriate for the site to be included as soon as possible under UNESCO protection.
Alberto: the Scala dei Turchi lies between two beaches: we’ve reached the first, which was our starting point; to get to the second, one would need to walk along the entire rock face — but our fear of heights suggests we shouldn’t…
Piero: Before leaving Realmonte, however, we have one last short stop to make: the “belvedere” of Contrada Scavuzzo. Let’s hurry to get our van…
Angela: It’s a wonderful viewpoint, from which you can admire the Scala dei Turchi from above. Practically a balcony with a breathtaking view of the white cliff, rising just a short distance away over a sea that looks even bluer from here!
Piero: thanks to its beauty, shaped by waves and wind over millions of years, the Scala dei Turchi has served as the set for many famous films with its white marl walls.
Alberto: I immediately think of Malèna, the film written and directed by Giuseppe Tornatore, with some scenes set at the Scala dei Turchi. And how could we not think of Camilleri and his Inspector Montalbano: in the episode titled “La prima indagine di Montalbano”, the Scala dei Turchi is mentioned directly.
Alberto: visiting the Scala dei Turchi is a must, especially for those, like us, planning to visit the Valley of the Temples. Around it, however, there are plenty of other things to see: certainly Realmonte and Porto Empedocle, with Capo Rossello and especially the 1st-century Roman villa; and then the salt mine with the “Salt Cathedral” and the Monterosso Tower, concluding with the birthplace of Pirandello.
Angela: our day was definitely a special seaside day, spent around this unique and unusual staircase. It’s a truly spectacular stretch of coast that, thanks to its peculiar features, has become an icon of Sicilian beach tourism. Nature has played the role of a great artist here: it worked on the coast over time with the help of the sea and wind, gradually smoothing the corners and making it softly sinuous, until forming these wonderful terraces! And the sea, taking advantage of this pure white and dazzling cliff, displays the most intense shades of blue and azure…
Piero: it’s definitely worth seeing it all again in this wonderful video!
The Alcantara Gorges
Nature, discovery, adventure, and fun come together in this unique place in Sicily. A truly unforgettable sight: the river flowing through an increasingly narrow space between two towering basalt walls with geometric shapes that look as if they were carved! The wonder of this place is striking, leaving both adults and children open-mouthed, faced with such beauty and power of Mother Nature.
Alberto: I’m here again to continue our journey discovering Sicily…
Angela: where are we going this time?
Piero: you’re doing great so far: the places we’ve seen are stunning and the kids have had a great time!
Angela: you’ve been very good at combining the two main ingredients we expect from Sicily: wonders to discover and, above all, lots of sea!
Alberto: this time, though, we’re changing things up a bit: no sea — but don’t worry, I won’t disappoint you this time either!
Angela: are you the one telling the kids that today they won’t see the sea?
Alberto: don’t worry, you’ll see it will be a wonderful adventure for them, with plenty of room for fun too. Start the van — we’re heading to The Alcantara Gorges!
All aboard!
Alberto: this time we’re heading a bit farther away, towards Catania, right on the border with the province of Messina; about an hour and a half on the road to reach our destination. Most of the journey is along the motorway: first the A20 towards Messina, then the A18 towards Catania. We exit at Giardini Naxos and from there continue inland along State Road 185 for about twelve kilometres.
Piero: we arrive very early in the morning at the Botanical and Geological Park of the Alcantara Gorges (https://www.golealcantara.it/). Parking is easy and there’s a short wait at the ticket office (be careful, because waiting times can become much longer, especially in August!). Entrance is paid, with discounts for teenagers, children, and especially for families. The various activities available inside the park are also paid, and you can buy combined tickets that allow you to save a bit. Inside there are bars and restaurants, but we take advantage of the day for a picnic, bringing what we need from home: there’s no need to carry everything with us, because once the ticket is purchased, we can easily go back to the van and then re-enter.
Alberto: the park lies right on the border between the two provinces, between the towns of Castiglione di Sicilia and Motta Camastra. The main attraction is certainly represented by the so-called “gorges”, a series of canyons up to fifty metres high and between two and five metres wide, through which the Alcantara River flows. The river rises on the southern slopes of the Nebrodi Mountains and ends its 52-kilometre course in the Ionian Sea, after skirting the northern and eastern slopes of Mount Etna. It is precisely the action of the river that, over the course of three hundred thousand years, has spectacularly shaped the Etna basalts, distinctive volcanic rocks.
Piero: It is not certain whether this distinctive scenery was created by the erosive action of the river, which over time carved this particular path through the rock, or whether the riverbed originated from a fault formed as a result of a seismic event; this second hypothesis is supported by the fact that the canyon walls are intact and sharply defined, and that the flow of water would have contributed only partially to shaping them.
Alberto: only science here and no history or myth — so let’s move straight on to the fun!
Piero: you’re mistaken, my dear! Do you really think I wouldn’t have found something here as well?
Angela: I expected that — by now we’re used to it…
Piero: according to myth, the gorges are said to have formed because of the dishonesty of a farmer who, through his bad behaviour, unleashed the wrath of the Gods in ancient times, giving rise to an impressive volcanic eruption. Clearly this is only a legend, but in antiquity it served to explain eruptions and seismic phenomena; let’s remember that we are very close to Mount Etna, and that the Alcantara River valley was evidently a preferred route for more than one powerful eruption that carried lava all the way to the sea, presumably forming Capo Schisò, near Giardini Naxos. Over time, these lava flows would repeatedly have blocked and altered the course of the river, as well as creating this natural wonder.
Alberto: the river owes its name to the Arabs: Alcantara in fact comes from Al-Qantarah, meaning bridge, in reference to the one of Roman origin that the Arabs found in the area. For the Greeks, this was the river of healing, known as Akesine.
The “Gorges”: a spectacle of nature
Angela: the wonder of this place is immediately striking and leaves both adults and children open-mouthed, faced with such beauty and power of Mother Nature.
Alberto: the park extends for more than two thousand hectares along the course of the river, forming several gorges and ravines, but above all offering a magnificent landscape that alternates between rock formations and lush vegetation, where citrus groves and prickly pear cacti are also found. Clearly, within the park and along the river area there is no shortage of wonderful, long trails to explore on foot, by mountain bike, or even by quad bike: from the Alcantara riverbanks trail, which follows the river’s course and is suitable for everyone, to the Mojo volcanic cone trail, much more demanding and leading to the discovery of this now-extinct volcanic cone at about 700 metres above sea level. We obviously stop at the most famous, best-known, and most impressive section of the gorges, right at the very beginning.
Piero: from the park’s access area, a system of lifts takes us down to the level of the river. The cheaper alternative to the lift would have been the municipal path, made up of 240 steps… The starting point of our visit is the small beach of the gorges.
Alberto: in front of the small beach, the river water is really very shallow, and the children can play and have fun. Be careful, though: the water is always very cold — actually freezing! If needed, it’s possible to rent boots and waders to stay dry, but in August, where would the fun be in that? Water shoes, however, are definitely recommended because of the rocks.
Piero: from this more open area, walking in the water, we make our way deeper into the gorges proper, with the water gradually rising in level.
Angela: the spectacle becomes truly unique: the river flows through an increasingly narrow space between two very high basalt walls, with geometric shapes that look as if they have been carved!
Alberto: for those who brave the freezing water, you can reach a point where the water is over one metre deep — a truly unique experience!
Piero: for those who feel adventurous, it’s also possible to do rafting and body rafting: the organizers provide all the necessary equipment along with instructions on how to behave during the descent along the river. There’s even the option for kids to try these experiences. Needless to say, seeing the gorges from this unusual perspective and being carried by the river’s current must be truly thrilling…
Angela: in the late morning, especially during July and August, this area starts to get crowded. So we return to the starting point, again by lift, to enjoy in peace the various trails along the left bank of the river.
Alberto: these are all fairly easy paths to walk, none of which take more than half an hour.
Piero: first, we take the Saja trail, longer and partly more exposed, which leads us all around the park, until we reach the enchanting Source of Venus: a truly magical viewpoint over the gorges!
Angela: from here, the Saja trail merges with the Gorges trail; we then continue towards the Tumult of Vulcano and the Balcony of Venus.
Piero: at this point, we continue along the Gorges trail and reach, in order, the Balcony and the Amphitheatre of the Muses, the Balcony of the Small Waterfalls, and finally the Terrace of Love.
Alberto: we then pass under the prickly pear tunnel to reach the Balcony of the Three Lava Flows, located right next to the picnic area.
Angela: after choosing our spot and setting up our space, we take the children to see the last attraction along the Gorges trail: the reconstruction of prehistoric animals of the park.
Piero: in addition to all this, the park also offers several other attractions for the little ones: first of all, the MOL, Museum of Land, which has a fantastic multimedia room simulating a 4D volcanic eruption, showing how the gorges were formed; and for those who don’t feel like walking much, there are electric minibuses available to explore the trails.
ZazzaMike and the SprayPark
Alberto: now it’s time to relax with our picnic. In the afternoon, the children will be waiting for ZazzaMike!
Angela: what is that?
Piero: it’s the little lizard you meet while walking in the park, the friendly mascot.
Alberto: ZazzaMike will take us to spend a wonderful afternoon at the SprayPark, a 600-square-metre water playground full of fountains and sprays, suitable for both adults and children.
Piero: it’s really fun, and you don’t need to know how to swim (there are no pools)!
Angela: it’s perfect for us adults too, together with some relaxation on the deck chairs and under the umbrellas provided by the facility.
Piero: we gave up the sea for a day, but I must say it was absolutely worth it: this is also Sicily!
Angela: I have to say that, once again, you chose well, making both adults and children happy.
Alberto: an incredible landscape, like something from another planet; a wonderful mix of nature, sport, discovery, and fun. Until next time!
The Valley of the Temples
Among the golden hills of Agrigento lies the Valley of the Temples, one of Sicily’s most extraordinary archaeological sites. The Doric temples of Juno, Concordia, and Hercules tell the story of Magna Graecia’s greatness, surrounded by almond and olive trees. A journey through time, myth, and timeless beauty.
Alberto: welcome back to Sicily, my friends; it’s time to start up the van again! Tonight I’m taking you to a place like no other: the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento. We’ll see it at night, when silence turns it into a dream of stone and light.
Angela: a night visit? That must be incredible.
Piero: you’ve already won me over! The valley is already a dream—known everywhere as one of the symbols of this land. When darkness falls and the moon reflects on the columns, I can already picture the temples coming alive.
Alberto: look outside, the road along the valley opens up between almond trees, olive groves, and golden fields. The air smells of wild herbs, and the sea isn’t far away. In the distance, the lights of Agrigento flicker like stars on the hill, and right below, among the shadows, you’ll see the valley appear. By day it’s magnificent, but at night… it feels as if time stands still.
Angela: down there, those golden shapes glowing in the dark… are those the temples already?
Piero: yes. It’s as if the light were trapped inside the stone.
Alberto: welcome to the Valley of the Temples. We’ll leave the van here. We’ll walk along the Sacred Way, the very same path that Greek pilgrims walked more than two thousand years ago.
From Akragas to Agrigento
Angela: how did this marvel come to be?
Alberto: it all begins around 580 B.C., when settlers from Gela—Greeks from Rhodes and Crete—founded Akragas. It was a strategic location, between two rivers, overlooking the sea, with a hill offering ideal natural defense. In a short time, the city became one of the richest and most powerful in Magna Graecia.
Piero: the Greek poet Pindar described it as “the most beautiful of all mortal cities.”
Angela: it must have been magnificent, full of temples, theaters, and statues. Pure art and wonder.
Piero: exactly. Akragas reached its peak in the 5th century B.C., under the tyrant Theron. That’s when most of the temples we see today were built. But in 406 B.C., the Carthaginians nearly completely destroyed it. Yet the city did not die: it was rebuilt and continued to thrive under the Romans, Byzantines, and Arabs, eventually becoming Agrigento.
Angela: and today the park is enormous, isn’t it?
Piero: yes, over 1,300 hectares. It’s one of the largest archaeological sites of the ancient world and, since 1997, it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Angela: incredible to think that after twenty-five centuries, these temples are still here, almost intact, telling the story of a people who knew how to unite faith, art, and mathematics.
Piero: and reminding us, once again, that Sicily, more than any other land, is a bridge between civilizations.
The night of the gods: the path among the temples
Angela: we’re ready to start our visit, beginning from the eastern side of the hill.
Alberto: look up there, on the eastern hill. That is the Temple of Juno, or Hera Lacinia. Built around 450 B.C., it dominates the entire valley.
Angela: it looks like a burning flame. The columns shine as if the stone itself trapped the sunlight.
Piero: there are thirty-four of them, in Doric style, perfectly proportioned. Rituals related to marriage and fertility were celebrated here. During the Carthaginian attack, the temple was set on fire, and you can still see burn marks on the stones. Yet it still stands, proud, suspended between earth and sky.
Alberto: let’s follow the path: here is the Temple of Hercules, or Heracles. It’s the oldest, dating back to 510 B.C., and only part of it remains, with eight columns reconstructed in the 19th century.
Angela: even like this, it’s impressive. The play of light and shadow on the columns makes them look like sleeping giants.
Piero: it was dedicated to the hero symbolizing strength and courage. The ancients brought offerings here to seek his protection.
Angela: from here you can see the entire valley, dotted with lights. And down there, that larger, perfect temple?
Piero: that is the Temple of Concordia. It’s the best-preserved of them all. Built in the 5th century B.C., with six columns on the front and thirteen on the sides, it’s a masterpiece of Doric balance. It has remained almost intact because in the 6th century A.D. it was transformed into a Christian basilica. When illuminated by the moon, it seems to breathe.
Angela: each column seems to move, as if it had a soul.
Piero: the Greeks believed that architectural harmony was a form of prayer. Here, we have proof of that.
Angela: and that vast field further ahead?
Piero: that’s where the Temple of Olympian Zeus stood, the largest of them all. Measuring 112 meters long and 20 meters high, it was built with half-columns attached to pillars and decorated with colossal statues of men, the Telamons, supporting the architrave. After its destruction, the blocks were reused, and today only one lies on the ground, but just looking at it gives you an idea of how imposing it must have been.
Angela: it seems impossible that humans could have built something like this 2,500 years ago.
Piero: Akragas was a dream of stone and pride. And further ahead, look—the one with the four isolated columns is the Temple of the Dioscuri.
Angela: Castor and Pollux, the divine twins. It’s beautiful, even if reconstructed.
Piero: a symbol of Agrigento. The Dioscuri represent the eternal bond between brothers and the connection between sky and sea. Every time I look at it, I think about how ancient myths still speak to us today.
Angela: and in that lower area, among the rocks and grass, what is there?
Piero: the sanctuary of the chthonic deities, connected to Demeter and Persephone, goddesses of fertility and the underworld. Night rituals were performed here, with torches and chants, to celebrate the cycle of the seasons. It’s one of the most evocative places in the valley, where you can feel the delicate boundary between life and rebirth.
Angela: the night amplifies everything: the sounds, the scents, the memories. It feels as if we are suspended between past and present.
Piero: and perhaps that is the true secret of the Valley of the Temples: a place where the gods sleep, but have never stopped listening.
Angela: Alberto, thank you for this visit. At night, the valley is pure poetry.
Alberto: in Sicily, every stone tells a story. But here, among the shadows of the temples, history itself breathes.
Piero: then let’s come back tomorrow, in the sunlight. I want to see whether the valley is more beautiful at sunrise or at sunset.
Angela: for me, it’s perfect right now. Here, in the silence, under the stars, among the voices of the centuries.
Noto
Walking through Noto is like taking a plunge into the past, immersed in the beauty of Sicilian Baroque. Every street is a triumph of elegance, with golden stone facades that at sunset are tinged with warm orange hues. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main street, opens up between majestic churches and noble palaces, revealing at every step intricate details such as wrought-iron balconies and carved decorations. The scent of flowers and typical Sicilian sweets fills the air, while the sound of bells echoes through the streets. The grandeur of the Cathedral of San Nicolò dominates the scene, framed by a monumental staircase. Every corner of Noto offers postcard views where art and history blend into a unique experience that fascinates and enchants the visitor.
Alberto: welcome back to Sicily, everyone! Another stop in this wonderful land.
Angela: here we are! Where are we going this time?
Alberto: ready for a new marvel? I’ll take you once again to discover Sicilian Baroque, right in its capital, another gem of Sicily, declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Piero: that’s easy: Noto!
Alberto: exactly! Hop in the van and follow me then.
Here we are in Noto!
Piero: finally, we’re here. Noto, the capital of Sicilian Baroque — what’s your first impression? Is it exactly as you imagined?
Angela: absolutely yes, actually, it’s even more majestic in person! The atmosphere is unique: wide streets, monumental palaces, it feels like stepping into another era. And the light! The limestone of the buildings reflects a warm golden glow I’ve never seen anywhere else.
Piero: the light here is truly unique, perfect for my passion for photography, thanks to the white stones used to build the city, which create this enchanting effect. Did you know that the Noto we see today is actually a city rebuilt after a terrible earthquake?
Angela: yes, of course, the 1693 earthquake that destroyed much of eastern Sicily — we talked about it when we were in Ragusa Ibla. The reconstruction of Noto, though, was a true work of art: the best architects of the time were called to redesign the city, and today we have this masterpiece of Baroque urban planning.
Piero: exactly, after the earthquake, the city was moved further down the valley, where it stands today. The reconstruction project transformed Noto into one of the finest examples of Baroque cities worldwide, with buildings that create perfect harmony.
Angela: before that disaster, there was an ancient Noto, perched on the Hyblaean Mountains, about eight kilometers north on Mount Alveria. Ancient Noto dates back to the early Bronze Age (3rd millennium BC). The name comes first from Greek, then Latinized as Netum — that’s why the inhabitants are called netini.
Piero: Greeks, Romans, and Arabs made Noto increasingly important; Normans and Aragonese succeeded each other over the centuries, from around 1000 AD until the earthquake. From the Arab domination up to the 19th century, Noto held strategic importance and was the main center of the valley, later losing this role to Syracuse. Until 1865, Noto was actually the provincial capital, then transferred to Syracuse.
Our walk through Noto
Angela: one day will be enough to discover the wonder of this city. Our starting point is the Porta Reale, or Ferdinandea, the historic entrance to Noto.
Piero: it is a monument built in 1838 on the occasion of the visit of the King of the Two Sicilies, Ferdinand II of Bourbon: since then, the Porta Reale has welcomed visitors, announcing the wonder, elegance, and charm of Noto.
Angela: from here begins Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main street of Noto’s center. We immediately reach the first square, Piazza dell’Immacolata, where the church of San Francesco d'Assisi overlooks from the top of a beautiful staircase, alongside the imposing bell tower.
Piero: just a little further ahead is the beautiful church of Santa Chiara, officially called Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta: although the facade is not among the most beautiful, its interior is truly splendid. Be careful because you don’t enter from the main street, but from a side street.
Angela: now we arrive at the most awaited moment of our visit, in Piazza Municipio, which hosts the symbol and the postcard of the city: the Cathedral of San Nicolò.
Piero: we are welcomed by the splendor of its majestic staircase and the facade that seems to reach the sky. The Baroque architecture here reaches its peak, with an incredible attention to detail and monumentality that takes your breath away. The facade was restored after the dome collapsed due to an earthquake in 1996: fortunately today, thanks to careful reconstruction, we can admire it in all its splendor.
Alberto: the spectacular beauty of the church is certainly enhanced by the enormous staircase: both have surely been captured in almost every advertisement about Sicily. One of the most exciting and interesting moments for your photos is definitely the sunset, when the sun’s rays hit the stone, giving the Cathedral shades of red and orange that make it truly unique.
Angela: I’m always fascinated by how a religious building can represent so much about a community. Here you truly feel the devotion and the desire to create a symbol that lasts over time. I imagine it’s also a place for major religious events, right?
Piero: exactly. During the feast of San Corrado, the patron saint of Noto, the Cathedral becomes the beating heart of the city. The celebrations attract many faithful and tourists, creating moments of intense emotional participation. But beyond the Cathedral, Noto is full of spectacular buildings.
Angela: right in front of the Cathedral is Palazzo Ducezio, named after the important Roman leader linked to Noto’s ancient history and now the seat of the Municipality. It’s especially famous for the Hall of Mirrors, a richly decorated room with a visual effect that makes everything almost surreal. It’s also worth admiring the Cathedral from its panoramic terrace.
Piero: speaking of the panoramic terrace, it’s definitely worth visiting the Church of San Carlo al Corso, another splendid example of Baroque architecture, with balconies and terraces overlooking the square and the Cathedral, offering yet another magnificent panoramic viewpoint.
Angela: you absolutely can’t miss a visit to Via Nicolaci, which is home to a series of palaces representing the pinnacle of Baroque architecture. In particular, Palazzo Nicolaci di Villadorata is one of the most sumptuous and fascinating noble palaces in the entire city. All the Baroque palaces are adorned with balconies enriched with putti, statues of mythological figures, winged horses, lions, and mermaids, along with decorations of every kind and beautiful wrought iron railings—those of Palazzo Nicolaci are perhaps the most beautiful of all.
Piero: we’re approaching the end of the Corso and visit another gem of Noto: the Teatro Comunale, a small jewel from the 19th century. Moving from Baroque to Neoclassical, the theater is dedicated to Tina di Lorenzo, an actress from Noto. For its elegance and horseshoe shape with four tiers of boxes, it is often called the “miniature Scala of Milan.”
Angela: right opposite the theater is the last attraction we visited along Corso Vittorio Emanuele: in Piazza XVI Maggio stands the Church of San Domenico, with its splendid Baroque façade, characterized by beautiful columns and niches.
Living Noto
Angela: a place this rich must have very special traditions and festivals.
Piero: one of the most famous is definitely the Infiorata, held every year in May. The entire Via Nicolaci is transformed into a carpet of colorful flowers. Artists use flower petals to create incredible designs, often inspired by Sicilian culture or religious themes. It’s a celebration of beauty, creativity, and art.
Angela: it must be an unforgettable experience. Walking along those flower-covered streets, breathing in the scents, and admiring these temporary masterpieces must feel like a dream. But does the festival have religious roots or is it purely artistic?
Piero: it’s a bit of both. The Infiorata is linked to spring celebrations and religious devotion, but it also has a strong artistic character. Sicily is famous for blending the sacred and the profane in its festivals. Plus, the whole community takes part: it’s a way to feel united and celebrate beauty together.
Angela: you know, after walking these streets and soaking up the history, I really want to explore another part of Sicilian culture: the food! What must we absolutely try here in Noto?
Piero: here in Noto, you can’t miss the scacce, a kind of stuffed focaccia typical of this area. But there’s also pasta alla norma, made with fried eggplants, tomato sauce, and ricotta salata. A true Sicilian delight.
Angela: and what about sweets? I’ve heard Sicilian pastry is some of the best in the world.
Piero: absolutely! Noto is famous for its almond production, so you definitely have to try the almond granita, perfect on hot Sicilian days. And of course, the cannoli and cassata. But a little-known gem is the honey from Noto, used in many local recipes.
Angela: almond granita, cannoli, honey… you’re making my mouth water! I imagine these small historic pastry shops hold truly authentic flavors.
Goodbye Noto!
Piero: Noto is not just a city for tourists. Life here flows slowly and peacefully. People are welcoming and deeply connected to traditions. Walking through the streets means meeting people chatting with each other, who know and greet one another. It’s as if the city lives in a world of its own.
Angela: I’m noticing that too. There’s a kind of calm that envelops you, even right in the city center. Noto seems made for those who love to take their time and enjoy every moment. There’s no rush, no strict schedules. It’s as if the city invites you to slow down.
Piero: here you can sit in a café, enjoy a coffee or a granita, and watch life flow around you. There’s no need to hurry, because every corner of Noto deserves to be explored slowly. And this sense of community is one of the things that makes Noto so special.
Angela: that’s exactly what I was looking for on this trip. Not just to see the monuments, but to live the city, to breathe its atmosphere. And Noto is the perfect place to do that. The history, the beauty, the kindness of the people… it’s like everything combines to create a unique experience.
Alberto: I’m glad Noto impressed you so much. It’s a city that stays in your heart, and every time you come back here, you find something new to discover. That’s why I invite you to come back again.
Piero: we definitely will! Meanwhile, to discover the timeless charm of Noto, enjoy the wonder of our walk in this video.
Piazza Armerina: the Roman Villa del Casale
Scopri Villa del Casale a Piazza Armerina, un sito archeologico unico in Sicilia famoso per i suoi mosaici romani. Esplora le storie nascoste nei dettagli artistici, le stanze maestose e l’architettura di una residenza imperiale, patrimonio UNESCO. Ideale per gli amanti della storia e dell’arte!
Alberto: welcome back to Sicily, everyone! Here’s another stop in this wonderful land.
Angela: here we are! Where are we going this time?
Alberto: once again, a quick day trip to see a little gem of southeastern Sicily.
Piero: you promised me another amazing dive into history.
Alberto: exactly: I’m taking you to discover one of the symbols of the Roman domination period on the island.
Piero: I think I get it—you’re talking about Piazza Armerina and more precisely, the Villa del Casale?
Alberto: xactly! I’ll take you to the heart of Sicily, in the province of Enna, just over an hour from Catania. Follow me then.
Discovering the Villa del Casale of Piazza Armerina
Angela: look at this wonder, Piero! Just the entrance with all these columns takes your breath away. It moves me to know that this place dates back to the 4th century AD and since 1997 it has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, yet another treasure here in Sicily.
Piero: it’s true, this villa is unique. It was probably built as a luxury residence for a high-ranking official or perhaps an emperor. The abundance and quality of the mosaics leave no doubt that whoever lived here wanted to impress their guests.
Angela: the villa’s discovery is credited to Gino Vinicio Gentili, who began exploring it in 1950 following reports from local inhabitants.
Piero: between the 5th and 6th centuries, the villa was significantly repurposed, with the residential area expanded and fortified. The resulting medieval settlement, called Palatia, was destroyed between 1160 and 1161 by the Norman king William I the Bad. Between the 14th and 15th centuries, after prior devastations, a new agricultural center called Il Casale emerged, giving its name to the present archaeological site. Due to subsequent damage, floods, and landslides covering much of the complex, the ancient Roman settlement was permanently abandoned. It’s precisely this covering that preserved the villa’s splendor to reach us today.
Angela: the remains of the villa today appear as four separate nuclei: the monumental entrance with three arches and a horseshoe-shaped courtyard; the central body organized around a square peristyle courtyard with a garden and basin; the large space preceded by a peristyle surrounded by another group of rooms; and finally, the thermal complex with access from the north-west corner of the square peristyle.
Piero: the Roman Villa del Casale at Piazza Armerina, Sicily, is a sublime example of a late-imperial Roman luxury villa and symbolizes the Roman use of land as the center of large estates forming the basis of the rural economy of the Western Empire. It is one of the most luxurious of its kind and is famous for the richness and quality of its mosaics, which are its symbol even before its size; it is a precious testimony of the lifestyle of the Roman ruling class and shows the cultural influences between the Roman world and the North African area. The villa covers 48 rooms (about 3,500 square meters) adorned with mosaics in perfect condition, probably made by African masters, depicting the history of the greatest empire with scenes of daily life, heroes and deities, hunting, and games.
Let’s enter the Villa del Casale!
Angela: here we are at last! This is the Court of Honor, right? Look at the floor! The very first mosaics are fantastic and already give us a glimpse of the marvels we will discover.
Piero: exactly, it’s an area where visitors were welcomed, and the mosaics were a way to communicate the owner’s prestige. Now, we’re entering the famous "Corridor of the Great Hunt"! There are scenes with animals and mythological figures — a true homage to the world of hunting.
Angela: this is really spectacular! The mosaic here is over sixty meters long and depicts an exotic hunting scene. There are lions, tigers, elephants… even a scene with hunters carrying the captured animals onto a ship.
Piero: this corridor was the central element of the villa, used to connect all the main rooms. See, each scene has movement, almost as if the animals are struggling for their freedom. It’s incredible how the artists used the tiles to create a sense of motion and depth.
Angela: yes, you can really feel the drama of the hunt. But look, to the right there are other rooms. Shall we go see them?
Piero: of course! Let’s enter the "Room of the Ten Girls," or as everyone calls it, the "Room of the Girls in Bikinis."
Angela: this room has become famous for the figures of the young athletes. Look, it almost looks like a portrait of a sports competition: there are girls playing with a ball, lifting weights, doing exercises. Some are receiving laurel wreaths, as if they are being awarded for their performances.
Piero: exactly, it’s a scene of gymnastics, showing how important sport was in Roman culture. It’s amazing to see a 4th-century mosaic depicting such active women.
Angela: it’s impressive how they rendered the figures with so many details, from their faces to their hairstyles. They really have personality! Where do we go next?
Piero: let’s head to the "Circus Room." This is another interesting mosaic, showing a chariot race in a Roman circus. Look at the details: the horses, the drivers, the crowd… it feels like watching a race live.
Angela: it makes me think of a welcome scene, as if the owner wanted to share the excitement of these events with his guests. The sense of movement here is impressive!
Piero: exactly, the mosaics in the villa were not just decoration but also a way to tell stories and captivate those who looked at them. Shall we continue to the Peristyle?
Angela: rhe famous garden surrounded by columns! Here you really feel an atmosphere of peace. In the center, there are trees and flowers, while all around, on the floors, there are mosaics with animals and scenes of rural life.
Piero: this was a place for rest and gathering for the owners and their guests. Imagine spending time here, surrounded by artworks and nature. And at the end of the peristyle is the "Lovers’ Room."
Angela: the room with the love scene gives a truly delicate image: a man and a woman on a bed, with a cupbearer bringing drinks. It’s like a glimpse into the intimacy of the Roman era.
Piero: a surprising representation, showing how the Romans also valued the intimate and private aspects of life. Now let’s see the "Basilica," which was a large space probably used for official meetings.
Angela: here the atmosphere changes: the floor mosaic depicts allegorical figures, deities, and animals. It feels like a solemn place for reflection. Perhaps the owner also had an administrative role.
Piero: this villa tells us a lot about the social and cultural complexity of that time. Finally, there are the baths! Shall we go in?
Angela: I can’t wait. The "Frigidarium" is the first room of the baths. Here guests took a cold bath before moving to the heated rooms. The decorations are more restrained, but the mosaics represent marine creatures like fish and dolphins.
Piero: it’s incredible how each room has a different theme. The Romans left nothing to chance. Let’s move on to the "Tepidarium," the warm room. This mosaic depicts tritons and nymphs, beings connected to water. Who knows, maybe to wish for a moment of peace and tranquility.
Angela: every detail seems carefully designed to create a specific atmosphere. And look here, the "Calidarium," the hottest room. Can you imagine how advanced the heating system must have been for that time?
Piero: absolutely, the Romans were true masters at this. Imagine, they already had a hypocaust system: a raised floor under which hot air circulated to heat the room. Truly an innovation. They even used latrines as real meeting places…
Angela: what can I say, this villa is so much more than you might expect. Every room tells a story, every mosaic conveys an emotion. It’s like truly stepping into the life of that era. Just look at this montage of images from all the other rooms we haven’t mentioned.
Piero: I agree: the Villa del Casale is not just an archaeological site, but a journey through time, an immersion in the beauty, culture, and art of an incredibly fascinating historical period.
Angela: no doubt about it, it was an unforgettable visit. Let’s relive it in this short video.
Novara di Sicilia
Alberto: Here I am again, everyone! Let’s continue our tour discovering Sicily…
Angela: Where are you taking us this time?
Piero: So far, you’ve been flawless: easy trips for the family and very interesting discoveries.
Angela: Not to mention the main ingredient: the sea!
Alberto: So, I’d say we keep going on this path, quite literally. Like with Tindari, we stay close to our base in Milazzo; get your legendary van ready and let’s go for the day! We’ll move just 45 kilometers towards Palermo and inland: our destination is Novara di Sicilia!
Piero: I’ve heard about it because it’s listed among the most beautiful villages in Italy, I like it!
Angela: But you said inland, so does that mean no sea today?
Alberto: Calm down! The village is wonderful, but it won’t take up the whole day: we’ll still have time for a fantastic surprise I won’t reveal just yet.
Piero: The usual mysterious guy… Everyone on board then! Let’s go!
Welcome to Nuè!
Alberto: we have just under an hour of travel to reach our destination; once again we take the A20 highway and exit at Falcone; from there, we head inland following the first stretch of state road 185 until we reach Nuè.
Piero: that’s what the locals call this village; here they speak a strange dialect, Gallo-Italic. Even though we are in the heart of the Mediterranean, the inhabitants of Novara descend from soldiers and settlers who, coming from northern Italy and southern France during the Norman conquest of Sicily, settled in this area. It’s really curious to listen to the local speech, which is a mix of Sicilian and Genoese with Padanian accents: south and north fused not only in the name — sharing it with the Piedmont city Novara (with which it has nothing to do) — but especially in the words. The name probably derives from the earlier Greek and then Roman settlement called Noa, which under the Arabs became Nouah: both ancient names testify to the beauty and fertility of the territory.
Alberto: the first traces of human settlement date back to the Mesolithic, with dwellings carved inside Sperlinga Rock and finds in Contrada Casalini. Clearly, these dwellings have little to do with the village that developed later, but stone remains the guiding thread of Novara’s development: the inhabitants specialized in stoneworking, passing the craft down from father to son, and many houses and constructions are made from the local stone, sandstone. Pliny, in Roman times, mentioned Noa in his writings and called its inhabitants noeni. In the 9th century, the Berbers built a new castle replacing the one used throughout the Byzantine period. In the 11th century, a colony of Lombards, Catholics with the Latin rite, probably settled where the current village stands; it returned to Christian rule and was called Nucaria. In 1171, the first Cistercian abbey in Sicily, Santa Maria Nucaria, was founded by Saint Ugo under King Roger II. Then came the periods of Norman and later Aragonese domination. The village reached its peak development in the 17th century, which shaped the building fabric still visible today.
Piero: the village was damaged by the Allied bombings in August 1943 during World War II. It has been gradually rebuilt and today is one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
Angela: today Novara is a gem located at the border between the Peloritani and Nebrodi mountains, on the slopes of the mountains, in a charming natural setting made of woods beyond which dominates the imposing rock spur, Rocca Salvatesta, reaching 1,340 meters in height; on the other side, the view is enriched by the sea, the Aeolian Islands, and the Tindari promontory, which can be admired from above.
Alberto: the village is made up of small houses built disorderly one on top of another, a labyrinth of alleys and narrow streets sometimes embellished with arches; but above all, it is full of elegant palaces with decorated facades and sumptuous churches. All this, carefully maintained and preserved, gives Novara its typical medieval appearance. The streets are paved with cobblestones. As mentioned, sandstone dominates both civil and religious buildings; some constructions also feature architectural elements made of cipollino, another local reddish stone.
Piero: arriving from the state road, our walk begins on Via Duomo. We reach one of the most interesting places of our visit, the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. It is the largest and most important church in the village. It dates back to the 16th century and is obviously built in sandstone; the interior is extraordinarily rich, with three naves and twelve altars decorated with beautiful frescoes and statues. From here, almost all the processions start and end, which take place numerous times during the year: it begins with Saint Anthony Abbot on January 17th, when animals are blessed and "u focu" (the fire) is lit, believed to heal herpes; then the Easter period follows, with very ancient rites that are always repeated in the same way over time, maintaining their charm; of course, the living nativity scene is a must during the Christmas period. But the central moment of the religious life of the community is the night procession of the Assumption on August 15th: the entire village is decorated and filled with lights; the ancient vara (processional float) is prepared with jewels donated by the faithful, and dozens of candles are lit at its base; then the procession moves through the streets of Novara in a fascinating nighttime setting!
Alberto: the religious devotion has significantly shaped the urban development of Novara. At every corner, there are churches, some truly very beautiful: from the oldest and smallest, San Francesco Church, dating back to the Middle Ages, to the Baroque churches of Annunziata and Sant’Ugo, ending with San Giorgio, San Nicolò in the heart of the town, and Sant’Antonio Abate.
Angela: the whole town unfolds through the wonderful typical medieval alleys: walking through them is truly fascinating. Besides the many churches, there are just as many buildings worth photographing: Villa Salvo in the San Francesco district; the Palazzo Stancanelli on the main square; Casa Fontana near the Cathedral; Palazzo Salvo Risicato; the Town Hall (Palazzo del Comune); and the 19th-century Teatro Comunale.
Piero: the highest point of the village is occupied by the ruins of the Saracen Castle. Little remains of the ancient structure: only one tower out of the original four that probably made up the original construction, lost over time due to neglect as well as the earthquakes and landslides that affected the cliff on which it was built. The land where the castle once stood is now privately owned and hosts a restaurant.
Alberto: this certainly hasn’t helped over time in the preservation of this symbol of ancient Novara; however, it is still definitely worth visiting for the splendid panorama enjoyed from here over the entire village, the valley, Tindari, the sea, and the Aeolian Islands.
Rocca Salvatesta
Piero: just before lunch, we leave the village to head towards the Rocca Novara that we had seen dominating the town.
Angela: a little over ten minutes by car and we reach the starting point of this hike towards what the locals call Rocca Salvatesta.
Piero: along with its natural beauty, this place is tied to an ancient legend: according to tradition, an invaluable treasure is hidden here; to find it, one must overcome a series of trials — and it must be a woman who does it!
Alberto: exactly: within twenty-four hours, she must collect firewood from seven different forests and weave a linen cloth on a loom; then she must gather grain to grind into flour at the mill, use the firewood to bake bread, and once ready, wrap the bread in the cloth she just wove. The trial ends by eating the bread at the foot of the Rocca; at midnight, a knight, according to tradition, will open the treasure doors and hand over jars filled with gold to the lucky one.
Piero: the Rocca is the highest point of the Peloritani Mountains at 1340 meters and because of its shape, it is also known as the Matterhorn of Sicily. The hike to the summit takes about three hours and is not easy, especially in summer and even more so with children. The walk starts from a picnic area located right on the Sella Mandrazzi road that connects Novara to Francavilla di Sicilia.
Alberto: the first stretch is steep but short, and can be handled without difficulty. Once we reach the plateau, we decide to stop and admire the stunning view of the Bay of Tindari on one side, and enjoy a different perspective of the Rocca, flanked by the Racco del Leone.
Piero: this is probably the area where the first settlement historically took place. After breathing in some fresh air and enjoying the breathtaking view, we head back to the village for lunch.
Angela: a quick lunch featuring local specialties, and among them we can’t miss a taste of Novara di Sicilia’s signature product: Maiorchino cheese.
Alberto: it’s a delicious cheese, produced exclusively here, and its name probably comes from the sheep’s diet, which includes leftovers from a local variety of wheat called Maiorca. It’s made mostly from sheep’s milk, with a good amount of goat’s milk added in.
Piero: this cheese even has a festival dedicated to it, where locals compete by rolling the large wheels of Maiorchino through the narrow village streets. The final showdown takes place during Carnival time. Both the cheese and the festival follow very ancient rules and traditions.
The beach of Mongiove
Alberto: I can see the kids are tired now, and I had promised them a surprise!
Angela: that’s right! The sea, isn’t it?
Alberto: exactly! I’m taking you to a special beach — Mongiove Beach. It’s about thirty kilometers away, so forty-five minutes by car, and we’ll be there… let’s hope we find a parking spot right away!
Piero: the beach is part of the Oriented Nature Reserve of the Marinello Lakes. The first stretch is quite wide and ends on the right with a fascinating promontory. As is often the case in this part of Sicily, the fine sand gradually gives way to pebbles as you get closer to the shoreline; and as you move toward the promontory, the rocks become more prominent.
Angela: overall, it’s a beautiful beach and the sea is crystal clear, although it gets deep quite quickly. It’s the perfect place to spend an afternoon, although it can get crowded on weekends and during July and August.
Piero: what makes it special is that, with a short swim — or, if you're lucky, during low tide and when the sea is calm — you can pass around the promontory and reach the many sea caves and small coves that follow one another along this stretch of coastline, all the way to the Tindari headland.
Alberto: the short video I shot with the drone captures its beauty and uniqueness!
Angela: this wonderful day has come to an end! We’re all very tired—time to head back home. A bit of rest, and we’ll be ready for a new adventure!
Trip to Tindari
Piero: hi Alberto, here we are again!
Alberto: let’s continue our journey to discover Sicily…
Angela: wonderful! Where are we going this time?
Alberto: once again, we’re not going far from our base in Milazzo, and you can hop back into your legendary van! We’re heading just 35 kilometers towards Palermo—half an hour’s drive and we’re ready to start our trip to Tindari…
Piero: it’s one of the places along the Tyrrhenian coast of the province of Messina that fascinates me the most: art, culture, myth, history, and spirituality all blended into one unique destination!
Angela: and all of it with a stunning seaside view in the background!
Alberto: I’d say it’s more than just a background: in the morning, I’ll take you to visit Tindari, and in the afternoon we’ll enjoy the beautiful beach and sea we’ll have admired from above. I’m sure you’ll love it—it’s such a beautiful place that Camilleri took inspiration from it for an episode of Inspector Montalbano. And that’s exactly why we’re naming this day in his honor.
Piero: then let’s go!
Tindari
Alberto: as I said, our day trip starts with a half-hour drive: we take the A20 motorway and exit at Falcone. From there, following the simple signs, we begin our climb toward Tindari.
Piero: this small hamlet of the municipality of Patti is located on top of the homonymous promontory, perched above the sea: it rises to about 300 meters above sea level.
Alberto: Tindari has ancient and noble origins: it was founded in 396 BC by order of Dionysius, by a colony of Syracusan mercenaries. They called it Tyndaris, the original Greek name, in honor of Tyndareus, then king of Sparta and, according to myth, putative father of the famous Helen of Troy and the Dioscuri, Castor and Pollux. During the First Punic War, it served as a Carthaginian naval base, and its waters were the site of the Battle of Tyndaris in 257 BC, in which the Roman fleet defeated the Carthaginians. Along with Syracuse, in 56 BC, it was conquered by the Romans who, under Augustus, transformed it into one of the five Sicilian colonies, the Colonia Augusta Tyndaritanorum. From this period comes Cicero’s famous quote, calling Tindari a "most noble city" (nobilissima civitas). Piero: but between the 1st and 4th century AD, a period of decline began, due first to a catastrophic landslide and then to two devastating earthquakes that almost completely destroyed the city. It became a bishopric in the 6th century and was conquered by the Byzantines; in 836, it came under Arab rule, who nearly razed it to the ground.
Angela: only the sanctuary, the ruins of the ancient city, and the Greek theater survived these disasters.
Alberto: and those are precisely the destinations of our morning!
Piero: if I’m not mistaken, it used to be possible to drive right up to the square in front of the church.
Alberto: exactly, but that’s no longer the case: to reduce car traffic—which used to be parked wildly along the final stretch of the road—there’s now a large paid parking lot a few kilometers from the top. From there, you can go up using a convenient shuttle bus (included in the parking fee), or on foot.
Angela: walking up doesn’t sound too great to me; the distance isn’t huge, but it’s all uphill, and there’s still a steep final stretch of hairpin turns up to the sanctuary. In the heat of certain times of the year, it’s definitely not recommended—and we’ll consider this part more than enough exercise.
Piero: we finally make it to the top, and the first thing we do is lean over the square’s railing to admire the breathtaking view of the strip of land and sea of Tindari!
The Sanctuary of Tindari
Alberto: now we head to visit the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Tindari, which has been designated a Basilica since 2018. It stands at the easternmost tip of the promontory, where the ancient acropolis once rose. The original sanctuary was built on its ruins, a small church dedicated to the statue of the Black Madonna. This statue, carved from cedar wood and of uncertain date, depicts the Madonna wearing a crown and holding the Child in her arms. Her face, elongated and serene, bears the unmistakable traits typical of Eastern and African iconography—unlike Western depictions—yet the proportions remain graceful and aesthetically harmonious. At the base of the statue, you’ll find the inscription from the Song of Songs: “Nigra sum sed formosa”, meaning “I am black but beautiful.”
Piero: it's unclear whether the statue arrived in Tindari as a result of a shipwreck or—more likely—during an attempt by the faithful to save it from the iconoclastic fury of the 8th century. According to tradition, sailors brought it ashore beneath the promontory of Tindari and left it behind to lighten their heavy load before setting sail again. Today, the Madonna is venerated during a festival held on September 7th.
Angela: the present-day Basilica is the result of an expansion completed with its consecration in 1979. Of course, you can visit the new church, but also the old one, which is located within the sanctuary complex. Even more, you can explore the rooms of the sanctuary itself—one of them, in particular, has a window that offers a breathtaking view of the promontory below and the entire bay. Definitely not to be missed!
Piero: before heading to the archaeological site, it’s definitely worth tasting a delicious granita at one of the bars in the square—mulberry and coffee are my favorite flavors!
Alberto: let’s now walk down the only road that leads from the sanctuary to the archaeological area. The first part is lined with small shops and stalls selling all kinds of souvenirs and roasted dried fruit—known in Sicilian dialect as “a càlia.”
The archaeological area of Tindari
Piero: as we get closer to the archaeological site, we’re greeted by stretches of the ancient city walls, still visible in some places.
Alberto: the entire area is still quite well preserved, likely due to the limited interest in reusing the sandstone with which the structures were built. Excavations are relatively recent: the first began in 1839, but the most significant ones date back to the 1960s and have only been completed in recent years. Today, we can admire a Roman insula with part of the main road—the decumanus—the basilica, and above all, the ancient Greek theatre.
Piero: the insula is essentially an entire Roman neighborhood, where the bases of the houses and some mosaics are still well preserved. You can clearly identify several tabernae and a patrician villa complete with baths. The basilica is a two-story structure, probably dating from the 4th century, with a central passage beneath a barrel vault—it may have been a gymnasium. And then there's the theatre: built against the side of a hill, it has a diameter of over 60 meters. It dates back to the city’s foundation period but was later renovated in Roman times with the addition of a portico and the reconstruction of the scaenae frons, of which only the foundations and one arch remain—modifications that made it suitable for games. Thanks to its splendid position overlooking the sea, it has hosted an important festival of music, dance, and theatre since 2001, now known as the Festival of the Two Seas. Some artifacts from the site are displayed in a small on-site museum, which can be visited together with the archaeological area.
Angela: I have to say that the wonder of this place deserves much more attention: little maintenance and care, despite the entrance fee. A true gem left to neglect! Trash and abandoned barriers everywhere, but worst of all, mosaics buried under dust and weeds—a real shame!
Alberto: I'm really sorry about your disappointment, but we still have an afternoon ahead in another very beautiful place. Let's watch it again in this video:
Piero: we’ve seen the sea and the promontory from above; now it’s time to go down there.
Alberto: we return to the parking lot and head to Marinello, aiming to reach the sandbar right under the Tindari promontory. Here too, there are two options: a walk on the beach under the sun or we can take the shuttle service that, by boat, in just a few minutes and for a small fee, takes us directly there.
Angela: we clearly choose the second option to avoid the afternoon heat and the long walk. Traveling with children, even the short boat ride is an experience in itself. Of course, if you want to fully live the adventure, you can take the trail called Coda di Volpe (Fox’s Tail) for its particular shape, which leads from ancient Tindari down to the marine reserve.
The Tindari Lagoon
Alberto: the Tindari Lagoon, with Marinello Beach, forms a stunning stretch of sea and is today a protected nature reserve due to the extraordinary presence of characteristic lacustrine water basins (the so-called “Marinello ponds”) alongside marine sands. Here again, myth blends with the beauty of the place: according to legend, the beach was miraculously formed after a little girl fell from the terrace of the Sanctuary and was later found safe on the beach. The girl’s mother, having witnessed the miracle, began to believe in the miraculous nature of the Madonna statue, which she had doubted due to its dark skin. Another legend adding further charm to this place concerns the Grotta di Donna Villa, located in the rock cliff above: the cave was said to be inhabited by a sorceress, who lured sailors with her singing and then devoured them. When someone gave up due to the difficulty reaching the entrance, the sorceress vented her anger by digging her fingers into the wall; this is said to be the reason for the many small holes in the rock.
Piero: the shape of the beach constantly changes depending on the tides; however, from above, the strip of land seems to have the shape of a woman embracing a child.
Angela: the sea and the place are enchanting and generally not crowded even in summer. The water is crystal clear and the seabed is sandy and varies in depth depending on the location: on one side the sea is shallower and protected by the sandbar, while on the other side it is deeper and exposed. Clearly, this stretch of beach is not equipped with facilities, so you need to be well prepared.
Piero: we spent another wonderful day in this splendid land, discovering a place that perfectly embodies the spirit of our travels, where beauty and relaxation combine with history and culture!
Alberto: as you are learning, there are many places in Sicily that share these characteristics: we just need to continue our patient exploration!
Angela: we can’t wait!
One night in Salina (Aeolian Islands)
Perhaps the most beautiful of the Aeolian Islands: a paradise immersed in nature and surrounded by crystal-clear waters. Its poetic charm also attracted Massimo Troisi, who filmed some scenes of “Il Postino” here. The typical Aeolian houses, the narrow streets, the scents, and the rich food and wine heritage make anyone who spends time here think: “I’ll leave everything behind and move to Salina!”
Discovering the greenest Aeolian Island
Piero: Hi Alberto, here we are again!
Alberto: of course, I promised you I would take you with me around Sicily ...
Angela: how nice! Where do we go this time?
Alberto: I'll give you a clue ... we were in Milazzo and we will not go far from there. However, you won't be able to use your legendary van. You will need to take the hydrofoil!
Piero: it's easy then, we’re going to one of the wonderful islands of the Aeolian archipelago that you can see from Milazzo.
Angela: I only know a few of them.
Alberto: the Aeolian Islands are seven: Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Panarea, Stromboli, Alicudi and Filicudi.
Piero: and which one will you tell us about?
Angela: come on, Alberto don't leave us on our toes. At least give us another clue.
Alberto: I can only tell you that this island has the tallest mountain of all the Aeolian Islands, about 962 meters, and I reached the top of it walking.
Piero: Let me think about it ... I'd say Stromboli!
Alberto: you didn't go very far. Stromboli is 924 meters high and it has the second tallest mountain (an active volcano, but I will talk about it some other time).
Angela: so… Salina!
Alberto: exactly. Pack comfortable shoes, swimwear, hats and sunscreen. The appointment is at the port of Milazzo to take the hydrofoil that will take us to Salina!
Piero: the ride from Milazzo to Salina takes about an hour and a half and the cost of the hydrofoil is not exactly cheap even if it is worth it for the destination. There is also a ferry boat, but it is very slow.
Alberto: Salina is an ancient volcanic island. The peculiarity is to have two mountains, also ancient volcanoes, one next to the other: Mount Fossa delle Felci, the tallest in the archipelago, and Mount dei Porri. From these two extinct volcanoes, seen from the north-east, derives its ancient ancient Greek name Didỳmē (from the Greek dìdymos, "twin"). The current name derives from a small lake in the village of Lingua, from which salt was extracted.
Visiting Salina main town: Santa Marina Salina
Angela: here we are then! What is the name of this town?
Alberto: we dock in Santa Marina Salina. There are two small ports in Salina: one, which is also the main one, it is in Santa Marina; the other one is located in Rinella, the village with black sand.
Angela: is the island big?
Alberto: well, bear in mind that in less than a couple of hours by car you can tour all the main villages of the island. It is not very big but we are on the second largest island of the archipelago. It has only 2,300 inhabitants.
Piero: I imagine that renting a car is essential.
Alberto: not necessarily. The first time I was there, I rented a villa with friends in Santa Marina and, to visit the other places, we moved by bus or taxi. Of course, for those who have kids and want to go around, I definitely recommend renting a car.
Angela: so I guess it's the first thing to do: how do you suggest to proceed?
Alberto: I must say that, as in many typically summer tourist places, renting a car is a bit of an adventure. You have to be careful with prices, check the condition of the car well to avoid surprises upon delivery ... it is certainly better to plan everything before arriving on the island to avoid waiting or worse, not finding availability.
Piero: thanks for the advice. What do you do in Santa Marina?
Alberto: during summer it is very active. There are events every evening, delicious restaurants, ice cream shops, bars, souvenirs shops ...
Angela: do you recommend any restaurants?
Alberto: I perfectly remember the Trattoria Cucinotta, which is located in the main street where there are all the shops. Apart from the location, with its wonderful veranda overlooking the sea and the island of Lipari, you should try the homemade squid ragù. Delicious.
Angela: yum! Marked on the list ...
Piero: what else would you recommend us to do?
Alberto: in the western part of the town, in a place called Serro dell’Acqua, it is possible to walk a path that leads, through a vegetation of olive trees and fruit trees, to the Saracen Caves.
Angela: what is that?
Alberto: they are caves dug into the tuff and hidden by dense vegetation, used as a refuge to escape the atrocious barbarity committed by the Saracens around 650 AD. They are made up of several communicating rooms inside which the cross engravings and numerous votive signs are still visible today.
Piero: very interesting! In Salina the Malvasia sweet wine is produced. What do you tell me?
Alberto: Salina is quite a fertile island, you cannot avoid to admire the vineyards. The Malvasia, as you mentioned is a sweet wine with a delicious flavour. It is obtained by drying and subsequently pressing the grapes produced by local vineyards. This is only the main of the other wines produced on the island: even if not from native vines, excellent white and red wines, both still and sparkling, are also produced. Because the island, as mentioned, is very fertile, there are also other crops. The other typical product of the island is the caper obtained from the flower of the plant of the same name: in Salina a particular, much larger caper is produced, the "cucunci".
Piero: wow! Where are you taking us now?
Alberto: we move to Lingua, a small village, which is about 10 minutes away by car. It is probably the place I have visited most often.
Angela: I guess it is because there is something good to eat.
Alberto: you know me ... in Lingua there is "Da Alfredo". I put it in my top 5 of Sicilian bars. Believe me, I've tried many bars ...
Piero: but it's just a bar!
Alberto: for us Sicilians the bar is part of the culture, it is a meeting place where of course we drink coffee but above all we eat his majesty the granita!
Angela: now I understand.
Alberto: and that's not all, at Alfredo's you must also try the typical dish for lunch or dinner: “u pani cunzatu”, which is a stuffed bread. It is a reinterpretation of an ancient recipe of fishermen who in the evening prepared a salad with the available ingredients - oil, capers, olives and basil - accompanied with toasted bread. Mr. Alfredo, with his sons, today prepare a loaf of homemade bread, toast it and dress it in all possible and imaginable ways. Clearly the advice is to try it with the typical local products.
Piero: it sounds like a tasteful dish!
Alberto: despite its extreme simplicity, it absolutely is. Probably what makes you appreciate it more is also the context of the restaurant and the square in front of it overlooking the sea. A practical tip: if you stop for lunch and don't want to weigh yourself down too much, just order half of it.
Angela: thanks. Is there any lighthouse on the island? You know how much I like them ...
Alberto: well, there is one a few hundred meters from the bar.
Off to Pollara: Troisi’s “The Postman” village
Piero: where are you taking us now?
Alberto: let's go to the other side of the island; you probably have already heard of it because of the cult Italian masterpiece movie “The Postman”.
Piero: it's true! The Pollara House is the only place, beyond Procida, where Massimo Troisi shot his last movie in 1994.
Alberto: exactly, but the place I would like to show you is the Pollara Beach. The name is misleading, there is no sand but large stones among the rocks. The space is a bit small, but this is what makes it unique and intimate, set within an amphitheater-shaped cliff. To get there you have to take a steep but beautiful path. On the way back, maybe we will struggle a little, but it will be worth it.
Angela: not a smart choice if you have kids ...
Alberto: it's not comfortable to spend the whole day there, but it's absolutely worth a visit.
Hiking on Monte Fossa delle Felci
Piero: you told us that you walked to the top of the Salina mountain?
Alberto: that's right. The path to the top of Monte Fossa delle Felci is a real adventure. Clearly, this cannot be done by organizing a day trip to the island. It is necessary to stay at least one night and that's exactly what we did: we woke up at 3am and we left around 4am to get to the top in time to see the sunrise and of course to avoid walking for several hours under the summer heat.
Angela: what did you do then?
Alberto: once in the car, we drove towards the valley from which the walk begins. It is still dark.
Piero: I hope you brought some torches ...
Alberto: no, but luckily we had the flashes of our phones. Try to visualize walking in the the woods and it is completely dark.
Angela: I imagine that for the hikers, this is not a big problem… they are more organized, understand what surrounds them and have the right tools.
Alberto: right! But we’re not hikers and we didn't have everything we needed ...
Piero: so how did you go on?
Alberto: we kept walking and every now and then we stopped to ask ourselves if we wanted to continue or go back. Every noise we heard in the trees, the recurring thought was "who made me do it?". In the end, however, pride prevailed: we had to succeed!
Angela: how did the walk go?
Alberto: I must tell you that, even if at times tiring, it was fantastic. The other thing that unfortunately we had not calculated was the humidity: in addition to making us sweat a lot, the morning mist, in fact, at the top, prevented us from seeing the view. However, it was a wonderful experience that I would absolutely do again.
Piero: how long did it take to reach the top?
Alberto: about 2 and a half hours for the ascent and an hour and a half for the descent. I still remember that while we were returning to the valley, we met the first hikers who asked us why we were going back. Every time we had to explain that we had left very early in the morning, that we had reached the top and that we were going to enjoy a nice granita and a swim in the sea.
Piero: are you already organizing other hikes?
Alberto: I would love to hike Stromboli … I hope to do that this summer.
Angela: wonderful! We can't wait to visit you in Sicily.
Rinella: the black sand village
Piero: you haven't told us everything yet: there's still Rinella!
Alberto: exactly. Rinella is famous, as I said, for its black sand beach, a destination especially for families and children who want to enjoy an easy access to the sea.
Angela: exactly what we need!
Alberto: that's right. The beach is located right in front of the seaside village and this gives it a unique physiognomy. Around the beach there are also numerous bars and restaurants that allow you to taste the various delicacies of the island.
Piero: it is a wonderful island. There are other six others ... how many have you visited?
Alberto: I set foot, for a short time, on all the islands except Stromboli. That’s the reason why I want to organize a nice excursion there.
Angela: with your drone I guess ...
Piero: not only! The DSLR, the lenses, the camera… an entire backpack dedicated to our great passion. Is that true Alberto?
Alberto: I usually travel a little lighter than you, but the passion is the same. Piero, when you have time we should discuss our backpacks and what we usually put inside them for our travels!
Piero: great idea!
Angela: oh gosh… you think about the backpacks, I think about organizing the next trip!
Alberto: the next story, then.
Piero: bye Alberto, see you next time!
Alberto: take a look at all the images, click HERE and watch this wonderful video!
Milazzo
Piero: Alberto, what a pleasure seeing you again!
Alberto: hi guys, I have an idea that I'd like to share with you.
Angela: sure, tell us everything.
Alberto: I would like to tell you a little bit more about my land, Sicily. What do you think? I could start with the Tyrrhenian coast overlooking the Aeolian Islands, and then bring you with me around this beautiful island.
Angela: it's a great idea! We can't wait to learn a little more and see the beautiful photos you took.
Alberto: we will start from Milazzo then: if we want to talk about the Aeolian Islands we can only start from there! Click HERE to see all the images!
Piero: it is a very ancient city founded by the Ancient Greeks with the name of Mylae (hence the name of the nearby river Mela).
Angela: the Ancient Greeks wanted to exploit its fertile plain, its strategic position and above all its natural harbor.
Piero: under the Roman empire domination, an important battle was fought during the first Punic War and then another decisive battle in the clash between Octavian and Pompey.
Alberto: over time its importance has remained intact and so with the Normans and Spanish dominations.
Angela: above all you can meet Milazzo in Italy history books because of a battle fought between the Bourbons troops and those of Garibaldi: this is an important battle, which laid the foundations for the Italian unification happened in 1861.
Piero: as many times happen, myths are intertwined with history: the waters in front of Milazzo are those of Homer’s Odyssey; Ulysses arrives there, driven by curiosity, to reach the cave of the most terrible of the Cyclops, Polyphemus. Many places, especially in Sicily, compete for the honour of preserving the home of the Cyclops met by Ulysses: clearly it is not easy to understand which place Homer was inspired by in his poem. However, the Cave of Polyphemus in Milazzo is located under the fortress of the castle. It is a natural cave that was used as a weapons depot, where saltpetre powder was extracted and stored for the manufacture of gunpowder.
Angela: what a story! I'd love to visit it.
Alberto: it is not possible, I’m afraid. First of all because it is private property and it is currently closed and not open to visitors. I think it hasn't been open since the 70s, when it became a reception room where weddings and ceremonies were held.
Piero: what a pity. Who knows what it was like inside ...
Alberto: I know that there are a number of natural rooms. Others were excavated in medieval times. There were also a stage for musical performances and a dance floor.
Angela: I'm a little sorry for Polyphemus, he is now left all alone ...
Piero: let's hope that someone will intervene soon!
Alberto: history and myth that make this place even more fascinating!
Piero: it all began in the VIII century BC with a small settlement right where you now see the ruins of a castle.
Angela: very nice! Is it open to the public?
Alberto: sure! Just imagine, it is the largest fortified citadel in Sicily. It is wonderful from the outside and stunning from the inside. Outside, in the charming old village, there are also some places that are worth spending a few hours in.
Angela: I think I read that a sea museum has also been opened a few years ago inside the castle ….
Alberto: you do know a lot of things! Yes, the MuMa. An experience that I truly recommend to everyone in order to understand how important it is to protect nature and the sea.
Piero: religion obviously goes hand in hand with history and myth.
Alberto: it's true! In 1221, a Portuguese missionary was traveling on a ship from Africa directed to Lisbon; due to a violent storm, the boat was diverted to Capo Milazzo and that missionary was sheltered for a few days in a cave: he was St. Anthony of Padua and the point where the cave is has become an enchanting church.
Piero: it is an important destination for pilgrims, especially on June 13th, the day on which the saint is celebrated. It was tradition to walk to get there facing the complicated climb to Capo Milazzo.
Alberto: how wonderful! The view from the balcony is beautiful and you can admire the whole promontory of Capo Milazzo, with Monte Trino, the bay and the Nebrodi mountains in the background.
Angela: what about the city?
Alberto: there is a very beautiful promenade along the eastern side: from there you can admire the entire gulf. Especially in the evening it is a meeting point for the people living in the area. There are several restaurants, bars and an exceptional artisanal ice-cream shop: it's called Sikè (visit his page: facebook.com/sikegelato). The master ice-cream maker is a really cool guy as well as one of the most renowned ice-cream makers in Italy!
Angela: anyway Alberto, you are guiding us through a beautiful seaside town, in Sicily and you still haven't told us where we can go for a nice swim in the sea!
Piero: you know that Alberto has to give us first the historical background and bla bla bla ...
Alberto: how nice! There are certainly many, but my favourites are three places. The first and most famous is the Baia del Tono or 'Ngonia del Tono. While the seafront promenade I mentioned earlier is to the East, the Tono is to the West. Words cannot be enough to describe this place, see for yourself from the photos.
Angela: how wonderful! I hope there are also some bathhouses, you know we are always traveling with children.
Alberto: of course, even if most of the beach is public, there are several bathhouses with some services available. They are all very nice, but in particular the Stone Beach and the Horizon are the most popular. If, on the other hand, you are looking for a restaurant with an hotel in the area, I would definitely bet on the “Ngonia Bay”.
Angela: I see some trails in the photos, can we walk?
Alberto: yes, of course! You can walk on the beach and then there is a trail along the promontory. One of the most characteristic walk trails is called "N’fennu e Paradisu", which means Hell and Heaven. It starts right from the West coast, near the Baia del Tono, and after several stairs you arrive at a point with a beautiful view of Milazzo and the bay. From there, it starts a trail that winds along the cliffs overlooking the sea until you reach the top of Trino Mount, from which you can enjoy a fantastic view over Capo Milazzo.
Piero: the other two places to go to the beach are still missing!
Alberto: are you in a hurry? The second place is located at the very end of the Milazzo promontory, Pool of Venus or Piscine di Venere. To get there you have to go first to Capo Milazzo, necessarily by car, then there is a trail. You will walk through an olive grove, admire a lighthouse and then you will down the stairs that will lead you to these natural pools.
Piero: the walk to reach the sea is an experience that it is worth doing it in every season of the year.
Angela: I am sure it would be nice spending the holidays in Milazzo ...
Alberto: yes, I would say. I know how much you like to eat and enjoy a beautiful view, so you will be definitely interested to know that Capo Milazzo is also a place full of night life. There are several restaurants and lounge bars. Maybe we'll have a lunch at the “Bellavista restaurant”.
Angela: why not! You are organizing the tour, I guess you will also pay for it …
Alberto: I'm just your guide ...
Piero: forget it, Alberto. Please, tell us what is the third and last place to go to the beach.
Alberto: it is a little bit off the beaten path, therefore it is not always crowded: you have to stop along the road that leads to Capo di Milazzo. It can be reached walking down a few stairs in the middle of the green. I'll show you some photos, maybe next summer I'll be able to take you there myself ...
Angela: that would be amazing. You’re in Sicily now, correct?
Alberto: right, I'm at your disposal.
Piero: thanks Alberto and… don't worry, we will buy you lunches and dinners.
Angela: I used to think Milazzo only as a port for the Aeolian Islands, thanks to you I now discovered that it is a land of sea, culture and history!
Piero: to summarize everything we just said, let’s watch this short video!